Bonding teak slats in Beneteau cockpit

catlotion

catlotion

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I have searched the forums (honest!) but still not sure of the best approach to re-glue our cockpit teak seating (1986 Beneteau Oceanis). We tried Sikaflex two years ago with limited success and can't face going through that again really. Water has got under it all now and it's lifting off in places.

I was wondering whether epoxy might be a more permanent solution - or would the expansion differential between the wood and substrate cause problems? To be honest, our first repair attempt wasn't really cleaned/primed that well, but it's difficult to get optimum conditions on a swing mooring on sunny Windermere!

any advice appreciated!
 
Sikaflex is superior to epoxy which tends to be rigid so can crack. Preparation is the key. You need to get back to the GRP, level and fair the surface, clean with acetone, lay about 2mm Sikaflex (or Saba which is what I use) with a notched spreader. Lay the teak strips and hold down with weights. I use paviors left over from the drive as they are easy to handle and good weight. Leave for as long as you can - week is good, then caulk the seams. No short cuts.
 
thinking more about this...

I know that preparation and environment is key, but as we're on a swing mooring and get limited windows for maintenance, I was thinking of taking all the slats home, cleaning and bonding (epoxy) them to aluminium strips (running across the slats underneath), caulking and then bolting each area as a single panel to the seats. This will ensure that they're all fixed securely to each other before putting them in-situ together. We can then caulk the panels round the edges.

Any thoughts? I'm not sure I can face re-bonding all the slats again and watching them slowly lift after a couple of winters... :(
 
How thick are the slats? If they are 6mm or more you can make them up into a panel at home and then just do the final bonding onto the seats on the boat. Use a piece of MDF for a base, lay heavy plastic on top so that the adhesive does not stick. Lay the strips out with a 5mm gap, prime the edges, mask gaps and caulk. Lay more plastic on top weighted with blocks to keep the panel flat while it cures, then sand caulking flkush. Panel should be quite stable and you can stick it down in one go with blocks to hold it down while the adhesive cures.
 
Maybe another option is "Liquid Nails"

Marble & Granite and Solid Surface Materials Adhesive — Low-VOC (LN-933)

This tough, high-quality, polyurethane construction adhesive offers excellent weather resistance and low-temperature flexibility. It's a strong-bonding adhesive for indoors and out, and it's specially formulated for marble, granite and other solid surface materials.

- See more at: http://www.liquidnails.com/products/construction-adhesive-LN933#sthash.5jTxcbkE.dpuf

I've used it to bond cement sheeting to timber. After seeing how it adheres and the strength I have a lot of confidence in the product.
 
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