Boats out of the water, what to check?

[Murv]

Just bought our first boat, it's now out of the water for service/repair.
First priority is to sort out the outdrive, make sure it's been serviced and is in good order.
What else should I be doing?
Obviously it will be antifouled before it goes back in but anything else I should be checking? i.e seacocks or anything else?

 

[richardabeattie]

The rudder bearings.

 

[guernseyman]

Sacrificial anodes.

 

[prv]

If you have Blakes seacocks without grease nipples (like the picture below, commonly fitted to the heads) then you should service them as it can't be done in the water. Newer ones have a grease nipple on the side so new grease can be added, but it's probably still easier to do them while out.

Pete

 

[Murv]

Great, thanks.
Anodes are done, will find the seacocks next.
There are two holes right under the hull, I assume that's where the toilet exits? easily checked with some freshwater I guess!

 

[sarabande]

take a pic of each side of the boat, showing ALL the holes and fittings.

Transfer this to a drawing of the boat for the maintenance log book (you have one ? No ? Start one; it will be an invaluable reference for engineers and painters and boat lifters). Check that each fitting looks sound, with no bright pink brass/copper fittings.

Use the land-based time to ensure that all seacocks open and shut properly, and easily, and make permanent labels, easily read, for each one. Also for each seacock and through hull, prepare a wooden conical plug to fit the diameter of the hole, and tie it on a piece of line, so that it is ready to be used as an emergency bung. This magic ritual ensures that you will never need the wooden bung

Again, from the pics, measure the deepest part of the hull, and any projecting skegs, props, shafts, etc., and add to the boat data book. Then you will know if you dry out or run aground, for sure, which bits are at risk.

Propellor size ? Handed ? Method of removing, diameter of shaft, thread type, taper, cutless bearing, rope cutter type. All this info may not be known to you now, but should be part of the armoury with which you are prepared to enjoy just going boating, rather than kneeling in the bilge, looking at a pipe leaking mysterious water, from an unknown source.

 

[Murv]

take a pic of each side of the boat, showing ALL the holes and fittings.

Transfer this to a drawing of the boat for the maintenance log book (you have one ? No ? Start one; it will be an invaluable reference for engineers and painters and boat lifters). Check that each fitting looks sound, with no bright pink brass/copper fittings.

Use the land-based time to ensure that all seacocks open and shut properly, and easily, and make permanent labels, easily read, for each one. Also for each seack and through hull, prepare a wooden conical plug to fit the diameter of the hole, and tie it on a piece of line, so that it is ready to be used as an emergency bung. This magic ritual ensures that you will never need the wooden bung

Again, from the pics, measure the deepest part of the hull, and any projecting skegs, props, shafts, etc., and add to the boat data book. Then you will know if you dry out or run aground, for sure, which bits are at risk.

Propellor size ? Handed ? Method of removing, diameter of shaft, thread type, taper, cutless bearing, rope cutter type. All this info may not be known to you now, but should be part of the armoury with which you are prepared to enjoy just going boating, rather than kneeling in the bilge, looking at a pipe leaking mysterious water, from an unknown source.

Have printed that out and is the first page in my (new) maintenance log book. Thank you

 

[chrishelen]

If you have Blakes seacocks without grease nipples (like the picture below, commonly fitted to the heads) then you should service them as it can't be done in the water. Newer ones have a grease nipple on the side so new grease can be added, but it's probably still easier to do them while out.

Pete

+1
might have to take the toilet out to get at it like i had to, plenty of info on line as how to service a blakes.

 

[tidclacy]

This is my list for winter maintenance for what its worth
LAYING UP

1. Remove sails

2. WINTERISE ENGINE

Change oil
Change oil filter
Run fresh water through raw water inlet
Change freshwater with anti freeze mixture
Change fuel filters and bleed
Top up fuel
Remove impellor
Slacken drive belts
Spray engine with WD
Coat battery terminals with Vaseline
Seal exterior exhaust hole
Check and change gear oil
Check clean or replace air filter
Check and clean engine anti siphon valve

3. Clean and polish hull, deck and topsides

4. Clear water from bilges and clean

5. Gel coat repairs

6. Service all cocks and check double clipped and not rusty and plugs still attached

7. Wash and check roller reefing system

8. Clean and drain water system, toilet and pumps

9. Remove all exterior equipment

10. Install heater and dehumidifier

11. Remove and layup outboard and rubber

12. check life raft for service interval

13. put antifreeze in heating system

14. Wash down windlass, spray with WD and Vaseline electrics

WINTER JOBS

1. Check and grease steering cables, check securing nuts. Check rudder system including gland, and bearing.

2. Ensure engine spares of oil/fan belts/impellors/gaskets/fuel filters/Oil filter

3. Check and varnish boat hook if necessary

4. Check flares and replace if necessary

5. check fire extinguishers

6. Check life jackets hold pressure and gas cylinders, salt tablets ok.

7. Clean and proof spray hood. Dodgers, sail covers and stern cloth

8. Clean winch handle holder

9. Touch up varnish

10. Check running rigging

11. Clean and polish topsides, deck and hull
12. Clean fittings/chrome on deck

13. Service all winches

14. Lubricate all fittings

15. Check and lubricate anchor and connections

16. Check bilge pumps and impellors

17. Replace life line cordage










UNDERWATER HULL JOBS

1. Clean propeller

2. Clean fill and paint keel

3. Prep for antifouling

4. Antifoul

5. Paint waterline stripes

6. Clean and polish Hull

7. Treat topside wood

8. Clean teak in cockpit

9. Check anodes

10. Check cutlass bearing

11. Check for any play in rudder

 

[Murv]

Another good list, thank you

 

[lustyd]

Clean and polish hull, deck

you polish your deck?! Hope you're not using wax as well

 

[Fantasie 19]

Another good list, thank you

Murv - what kind of boat??

 

[Murv]

Murv - what kind of boat??

She's a 22' 1979 Fairline Holiday.
I'm quite happy with what we're doing so far, engine is being serviced (or cambelt changed anyway, oil and filters will probably be done when we're back in the water and can run it up to temperature.)
Outdrive has been repaired and will be checked to ensure it's serviced.
Hull and outdrive will be anti-fouled.
It's just other bits we need to do, and can only do whilst she's out really like the seacocks.

There's a load of electrical work needs doing, not many of the buttons and switches actually do anything anymore but I think all of that can be done when we're back in.

The other thing I will sort out is the swim platform and davits. They're both looking very tatty and although it's only cosmetic, it will obviously be easier to do those whilst she's out.
Been googling teak restoration so am happy to do those.

 

[tidclacy]

you polish your deck?! Hope you're not using wax as well

Just the vertical bits not the non slip.