Norman_E
Well-known member
Long post warning, but anyone who understands fridges please bear with me as I need to know how to resolve the problem.
My boat has a big top loading fridge with two cooling systems. The original Jeanneau installed system is an air cooled 12 volt Danfoss one, which is a bit underpowered in the heat of a Turkish summer. It is also pretty noisy.
The second system is a CLD Inverter driven job with a big stainless box type cooling plate and a 240 volt water cooled compressor driven via an automatic inverter that also incorporates the fridge control mechanism. CLD are no longer in business and the special inverters no longer available.
The CLD system worked very well until recently when the compressor failed. I had a new compressor 240 volt compressor installed but the inverter has now failed and is said to be beyond repair. With the inverter installed the fridge works OK when on mains shore power but once that is disconnected only the 12 volt pump that provides the water cooling will work as the inverter failure means that their is no current for the compressor. So now I have a new compressor and expansion valve (which was also replaced) but a fridge that only works if mains are available. The failed inverter provided the following connections: Two wires to connect the thermostat, two wires to some kind of pressure valve attached to the compressor, 240 volt output to the compressor and 12 volt output to the pump, both of the latter switched according to thermostat input.
It seems to me that there are possible fixes.
1) Scrap the inverter and source a fridge controller that will accept all the above connections including a connection to switch the 12 volt supply to the pump at the same time as it switches the compressor power.
2) As above but if 12 volt switching is not available add a relay to switch the pump.
Both of the above would allow the failed inverter to be scrapped and a separate new inverter installed with manual switching of the fridge between mains and battery power. The old inverter was rated 800 watts continuous with 1100 watts for compressor start up.
3) Scrap the brand new compressor and source a water cooled 12 volt one, plus its control box.
Having just bought the new compressor I think (1) above would be my preferred choice but what control box can I buy?
Can anyone show me something suitable?
My boat has a big top loading fridge with two cooling systems. The original Jeanneau installed system is an air cooled 12 volt Danfoss one, which is a bit underpowered in the heat of a Turkish summer. It is also pretty noisy.
The second system is a CLD Inverter driven job with a big stainless box type cooling plate and a 240 volt water cooled compressor driven via an automatic inverter that also incorporates the fridge control mechanism. CLD are no longer in business and the special inverters no longer available.
The CLD system worked very well until recently when the compressor failed. I had a new compressor 240 volt compressor installed but the inverter has now failed and is said to be beyond repair. With the inverter installed the fridge works OK when on mains shore power but once that is disconnected only the 12 volt pump that provides the water cooling will work as the inverter failure means that their is no current for the compressor. So now I have a new compressor and expansion valve (which was also replaced) but a fridge that only works if mains are available. The failed inverter provided the following connections: Two wires to connect the thermostat, two wires to some kind of pressure valve attached to the compressor, 240 volt output to the compressor and 12 volt output to the pump, both of the latter switched according to thermostat input.
It seems to me that there are possible fixes.
1) Scrap the inverter and source a fridge controller that will accept all the above connections including a connection to switch the 12 volt supply to the pump at the same time as it switches the compressor power.
2) As above but if 12 volt switching is not available add a relay to switch the pump.
Both of the above would allow the failed inverter to be scrapped and a separate new inverter installed with manual switching of the fridge between mains and battery power. The old inverter was rated 800 watts continuous with 1100 watts for compressor start up.
3) Scrap the brand new compressor and source a water cooled 12 volt one, plus its control box.
Having just bought the new compressor I think (1) above would be my preferred choice but what control box can I buy?
Can anyone show me something suitable?
