Bleeding injector pump on VP 2001

[paulwornell]

Have had injector pump (and injector) serviced on my VP 2001 and have re-installed. Have bled low pressure side ok (I think - fuel flows well from bleed on fine filter). Have cranked engine with connection to injector loosened to get fuel flowing on high pressure side (throttle fully open, decompression lever raised) but not even a drip. Have heard of Pella oil extractor being used to assist - but how/where do you connect to and with what?

 

[warrenmarkus1]

lots of possiblities, but could be an airlock in the low pressure side. remove the connections (feed and return) and fill the pump with fuel using an eyedropper, before replacing. give it a gentle tap to dislodge any air bubbles
if still no output at the injectors, then it may be that the pump control pin has not engaged with the rack that controls the engine speed. Pig to check - you might be able to see by removing the big brass nut at the end of the rack (g'box end) and a powerful torch.
Assuming you have lined up the marks on the injector pump and block.
Not heard of using a Pela before, but it would go at the injector end to try suck fuel into the injector pump - just need to be very careful due to the pressures of the injector pump

 

[philip_stevens]

Make absolutely certain that the lift pump has not got a split diaphragm.

A friend of ours had a starting problem with his 2003T last summer, and we had to tow them from an anchorage to a marina in the river Rance.

Although we got fuel out of the bleed screw by hand operating the lift pump, the engine would not start. It turned out that the diaphragm was split, but intact enough to still allow fuel to come out of the bleed screw - although looking back in hindsight, it was not a lot.

Once the new diaphragm was fitted, the engine started first time.


We have always had problems starting our 2003 since we bought the boat 4 years ago. We had to use the cold start on full throttle with the engine de-compressed to get some seal into the cylinders, and then re-set the cold start and decompression lever and start (almost) normally.

This year it got so bad that eventually (luckily when we got to the yard to lay-up) it would not start. Our problem was at least 4-fold +. The bores were badly glazed (honed), the rings were badly worn (replaced), the valve seats were badly pitted (reground and the exhaust seats replaced), and the injectors were not spraying properly (one sort of OK and two dribbling). To add to this, the exhaust valve guides were also worn and had to be replaced.

All in all, lack of compression on an '86 engine that had never before been removed and serviced properly due to lack of top access.

To add to the expense, the exhaust elbow was so badly eroded (into the bolt holes) that this had to be replaced (it was also almost completely blocked that did not help water injection), and the heat exchanger was that de-zincified that we could not get a seal on the ends - even went and got them turned down to find a solid bit of brass to no avail.

An expensive winter!

/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[Happydaze]

We had a problem with bleeding the 2003 fuel system after removing and refitting the fuel tank. Fuel appeared to come through the bleed screw at the top of the fuel filter but still would not start when we tried. The problem with ours was the non-return valve fitted inside the top of the lift pump above the diaphram, at the fuel exit point, had broken away from the casting. We repaired the valve and it works but now carry a spare lift pump. It's worth a look on yours.