Bleeding a vp 2002 piccie

KREW2

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I have two manuals for the VP 2002, they both show a different bleed valve for the fuel filter. Can someone tell me which nut is the one to undo to bleed the fuel line after replacing the filter.

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The slotted hex screw is the one to crack open for bleeding. It's quite likely that either would do though, or alternatively that you do the one on the banjo connector as well, after the other one.
 
You need to make sure that all the debris around the filter housing is cleaned off betore changing the filter, if you can fill the new filter with clean fuel before fitting it there will be very little air to remove.
Ted
 
The slotted screw is the bleeding screw for the bowl and the smaller one may be of help removing air from the spill lines however there is only a small orfice hole in there so it would be a slow way of bleeding the bowl and there may be a dipper tube under the banjo pipe which would make it impossible to get all the air out.
 
As has been said the slotted hex screw is the bleed screw. You do not need to bother about the bigger one because the air will come out automatically as the 2002 injectors are self bleeding. It is worth while pointing out that bleeding the filter depends on the fuel pump cam position. Somtimes the fuel flows on its own. Sometimes you have to turn over the engine slightly by turning the flywheel or alternatively work the pump lever up and down.
 
Thanks to all, I will play this weekend. Just one more question. If I change the filter on the primary/water separator will this self bleed when I pump fuel through to the second filter.
 
will this self bleed when I pump fuel through to the second filter
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Depends on where the fuel tank is in relation.. Sometimes the primary filter is too high to self prime and needs a little help...I find stuffing a bit of garden hose in the tank filler and blowing like bagpiupes does the trick...bit of rag around the hose to seal. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif You blow hard enough it overtakes the breather....Some use a dinghy pump.
 
I have just fitted another injector to my 2001 and changed all the filters so I had to bleed the system. I didn't fancy sucking the fuel pipe from the tank to start the flow. Instead I removed the drain screw from the top of the CAV water separator. Then I used a small tube (actually the drain tube from the anti-syphon valve) pressed tightly onto the hole and sucked the other end. When fuel started to drip through the filter into the glass bowl, I had plenty of time to refit the drain screw before it all filled up.

My fuel tank is mounted high and gravity feeds the system.

Edit: Sorry. I didn't answer your question as I forgot to try that method! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
It depends how your fuel return is arranged. If the tank is higher than the engine and the return pipe is below the level of the diesel you will get syphoning back. If you have turned off the fuel supply, removed the filter and get an uninterrupted flow out of the housing you are getting it syphoned back through the return.

If you don't get this problem when you change the filter then you can use the higher banjo screw. However if, like us, you do get the syphoning then use the slotted screw - if you use the top one you get diesel flooding out without actually bleeding the filter properly. Our manual has been amended by a previous owner to point to the slotted screw for bleeding.

The syphoning of diesel back through the return is not good as it introduces unfiltered diesel into the clean part of the system. So, if we are doing a lot of work on the engine, we disconnect the return and blow the diesel back into the tank with an air pump to break the syphon.
 
i have a vp2001, same filter assembly. i change the filter every season and never have to bleed. simply operate the hand ' tickler' pump under the fuel pump/filter assembly fo a minute or two after filter change. this fills the new filter and seems to purge the system of air every time.
 
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