michaelmooney
New member
Any help bleeding a yanmar 1gmi0?
bleedin yanmar
- Thread starter michaelmooney
- Start date
johna
New member
Evadne
Active member
First, if you haven't disconnected anything recently, find where the air is getting in. Then get some disposable nappies to put under each bleed point as you do it, unless you particularly like the smell of diesel in the bilges.
To bleed, start at the primary filter and work your way through the engine filter (you can undo the inlet and outlet at the same time) and the pumps in order. To bleed the last bit disconnect the pipe to the injector and spin the engine until fuel spurts out, then stop and do it back up. If it doesn't start, do it all over again until it does. Good luck.
To bleed, start at the primary filter and work your way through the engine filter (you can undo the inlet and outlet at the same time) and the pumps in order. To bleed the last bit disconnect the pipe to the injector and spin the engine until fuel spurts out, then stop and do it back up. If it doesn't start, do it all over again until it does. Good luck.
ShipsWoofy
New member
Where are you Michael.
I ask as there are many including me if I am close to you who would be happy for the price of a coffee to pop on board and nip through it with you. just a thought.
I ask as there are many including me if I am close to you who would be happy for the price of a coffee to pop on board and nip through it with you. just a thought.
snowleopard
Active member
On my 3GM the sequence is - primary filter, lift pump, secondary filter, injector pump. I have never bothered to bleed the injectors and it always works.
There can be a problem pushing fuel into the primary filter to force the air out, depending on the layout of tank and piping. I fitted rubber priming bulbs for that purpose.
Slacken off each bleed screw half a turn, pump until no more bubbles come out then re-tighten. Repeat for each bleed point in the above sequence. With practice you'll be able to do it in under a minute. The daft thing is that you'll need 2 or 3 sizes of spanner! Ring spanners are better than open end as they won't burr the nut with repeated use.
There can be a problem pushing fuel into the primary filter to force the air out, depending on the layout of tank and piping. I fitted rubber priming bulbs for that purpose.
Slacken off each bleed screw half a turn, pump until no more bubbles come out then re-tighten. Repeat for each bleed point in the above sequence. With practice you'll be able to do it in under a minute. The daft thing is that you'll need 2 or 3 sizes of spanner! Ring spanners are better than open end as they won't burr the nut with repeated use.
Evadne
Active member
sorry, I was a bit succinct, what I meant was that I slacken the pipe off at the injector, spin the engine to fill the pipe with fuel then re-attach. It is OK to slacken the pipe off at the other end, i.e. the hp pump, and spin the engine. It is the pump and outlet you are bleeding, not the pipe or injector. Also, I use the lift pump "waggler" to pump fuel through the engine filter if it is empty, mostly for speed. I am fortunate in that everything is adequately fed by gravity so if fuel doesn't flow naturally, I know there is a blockage somewhere. I agree that it is a pain about the many spanners and/or screwdrivers needed to bleed the whole path.
michaelmooney
New member
thanks any info on the liftpump bit?
michaelmooney
New member
thanks
snowleopard
Active member
slacken the hex screw on the top of the pump then waggle the lever underneath! for the next two stages you waggle the pump lever again.
Dave - I actually don't crack the joints on the injector pipes at all - even when the engines were brand new I have only ever bled the injector pump via the screw on the top. Give it a try - you may save a bit of time & mess.
Dave - I actually don't crack the joints on the injector pipes at all - even when the engines were brand new I have only ever bled the injector pump via the screw on the top. Give it a try - you may save a bit of time & mess.
Evadne
Active member
Thanks, I think I got into that habit from when I got blocked pipes due to diesel bug. If I cracked the pipe at the inlet then I could see that the fuel flow from the tank was ok, and bleed it at the same time. I can't remember the bleed screw on the top, maybe that's a sign that the engine goes wrong less often these days, the diesel bugs are at least caged, if not completely eradicated!
stravaig03
New member
Hi there, I had the dreaded bug last year. After cleaning the tank and filters I bled using the lift pump. I then had to find an assistant to stop start etc and a kind Swedish guy was horrified that I intended to crack the injectors. We used the decompression levers on the yanmar 3GM, turned the engine with the starter, threw the decompresion lever on one cylinder (I think the others then came in automatically), kept the starter turning for about 5 seconds,then repeated perhaps 5/6 times and the engine fired on one cylinder,then two etc. Not the bleeding method described in my handbook but he assured me that this was the method in his. definately easier and less deisel spill
TheBoatman
New member
I admit that I have not bled a 1 GM but I have bled the 2 and 3 GM engines and it is very simple. Because the lift pump is cam driven on the Yanmar it is possible to stop the engine so that the cam has depressed the lift pump lever, so that no amount of priming the lever has any effect. If you want to use the lever then you need to "kick" the engine on the starter motor to get the lever in the correct position.
I never bother with that, what I do is to undo the bleed screws on the engine filter and the HP pump, the screws are hexagon headed but with a screw driver slot in. When both screws are undone turn the engine over on the key and when diesel pi**s out of the filter do it up with the screw driver, then with the engine still turning over wait until diesel p***s out of the HP pump and tightern it. By the time you have got the HP screw done up the engine will be trying to fire. KEEP THE ENGINE TURNING OVER UNTIL IT REVS UP.
PS set throttle at about 1/2 before you start. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I never bother with that, what I do is to undo the bleed screws on the engine filter and the HP pump, the screws are hexagon headed but with a screw driver slot in. When both screws are undone turn the engine over on the key and when diesel pi**s out of the filter do it up with the screw driver, then with the engine still turning over wait until diesel p***s out of the HP pump and tightern it. By the time you have got the HP screw done up the engine will be trying to fire. KEEP THE ENGINE TURNING OVER UNTIL IT REVS UP.
PS set throttle at about 1/2 before you start. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Eudorajab
New member
Agree entirely with the bleed sequence and reccomendations.
Have certainly experienced the problem with the manual pump on a 3GM recently and would like to know how you "kick" the starter motor !!
I thought that my manual pump was kaput and as I was underway at the time and approaching a rather busy harbour entrance I just kept turning the engine over with throttle wide open (3 or 4 times for about 10-15 seconds each time with a 1-2 minute "rest" in between) till the baby finally fired for me and all was okay.
BTW traced the problem to blocked fuel line which was cleared before attempting to restart.
Have certainly experienced the problem with the manual pump on a 3GM recently and would like to know how you "kick" the starter motor !!
I thought that my manual pump was kaput and as I was underway at the time and approaching a rather busy harbour entrance I just kept turning the engine over with throttle wide open (3 or 4 times for about 10-15 seconds each time with a 1-2 minute "rest" in between) till the baby finally fired for me and all was okay.
BTW traced the problem to blocked fuel line which was cleared before attempting to restart.
jimi
Well-known member
It might be worth turning off the water inlet as there is no exhaust coming through to vent the water partic if the bleeding takes longer than anticipated.
wrr
Active member
That little lever-operated fuel pump on the engine can be a real pain to reach and operate. With any sea running, you can leave quite a bit of flesh on various bits of the engine! The answer, as already indicated above, is to install a diesel fuel primer bulb. Should be available from any decent motor factor or from a Peugeot dealer.
Evadne
Active member
Is it just me or ....
The Yanmar is considered one of the most reliable marine diesel engines. When you read a thread like this one, you wonder what the bad ones must be like! To be fair to the beast, most of my problems have come from an installation with insufficient filtering, the rest as a direct result of inept tinkering, but it is still amazing just how much time (and cash) a little engine that does only tens of hours per year can eat up.
The Yanmar is considered one of the most reliable marine diesel engines. When you read a thread like this one, you wonder what the bad ones must be like! To be fair to the beast, most of my problems have come from an installation with insufficient filtering, the rest as a direct result of inept tinkering, but it is still amazing just how much time (and cash) a little engine that does only tens of hours per year can eat up.
wiggy
Well-known member
Good thing they dont fit them in cars you would need a full tool kit and personal AA man to do the weekly shop!!!! Assuming SHMBO does not do it, in that case she can walk.
snowleopard
Active member
Car diesels - self bleeding
I have Citroen and Peugeot diesel cars. If you run out of fuel all you have to do is re-fill the tank, squeeze the rubber bulb under the bonnet then crank the engine. Why can't boat engines do that?
I have Citroen and Peugeot diesel cars. If you run out of fuel all you have to do is re-fill the tank, squeeze the rubber bulb under the bonnet then crank the engine. Why can't boat engines do that?
Ships_Cat
New member
Re: Car diesels - self bleeding
Some do, even without the rubber bulb.
Our Volvo Penta lifts fuel from the tank in the keel and one can replace both the primary and secondary fuel filters so both filters empty and the engine fires straight away on residual fuel and self primes (maybe one or two very slight misses). Don't know what the max lift it would do it for but I have done it with the tank more than 1/2 empty and that somewhere getting close to a metre lift.
John
Some do, even without the rubber bulb.
Our Volvo Penta lifts fuel from the tank in the keel and one can replace both the primary and secondary fuel filters so both filters empty and the engine fires straight away on residual fuel and self primes (maybe one or two very slight misses). Don't know what the max lift it would do it for but I have done it with the tank more than 1/2 empty and that somewhere getting close to a metre lift.
John