Blake’s seacock wrongly fitted?

wizzer

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So, on my “new” boat, a 1999 Aquastar 118, there are two bogs (aka heads 🙄). They are both Jabsco manual pump out jobbies (intended pun). They both appear to pump into separate (for & aft) holding tanks. The tanks can be pumped out at a marina with the facility, OR, emptied at sea. Now, there’s a pipe coming from the bottom of the holding tank(s) to a Blake’s seacock, the fwd one seems to work fine, basically emptying the tank when the Blake’s valve is open. Now, the problem is with the aft Blake’s valve, whilst it appears to be working fine, it doesn’t drain the tank to sea. I have theorised that the “keep plate” is fitted 180 degrees out of place and as a result the seacock is actually never open, regardless of the handle position. Any theories?
 

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Refueler

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As far as I know - the keeper plate makes no odds to open / closed ... its the barrel itself if installed 180 out of alignment.

Can you not turn handle - lift it off, place back in original position and turn again ? Repeat until flow is made ? Noting the notched line in top of barrel indicating in line with pipe etc ?
 

RunAgroundHard

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The small arrow on the spigot that sticks up from the tapered valve plug should point to the outlet port on the valve body. The keeper plate has a valve handle stop spigot on it that should be opposite the outlet port on the valve body. Remove the keeper plate, turn the tapered valve plug so that the arrow points to the outlet on the valve body, refit the keeper plate so that valve handle stop spigot is opposite tp the side iin your picture.

I have just checked one I have on the shelf, y=same as your style of Blakes, the newer style.

Edited for clarity. Picture shows correct orientation.

53828168821_bd0bea8cba_4k.jpg
 
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Bouba

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Can I just say....saying a seacock handle needs to be moved 180 degrees in order to function...is an extremely inflammatory thing to post...I (regrettably but correctly) said similar and it lost me half of my friends on the forum. Just saying
 

Refueler

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The small arrow on the spigot that sticks up points to the open port. If that can line up with the outlet then the keeper plate will have to be removed so that you can line it up and then refit.

My Blakes don't have an Arrow ... its just a plain line across top. If I put back 180 out - then opening in barrel is against seacock wall.... not to pipe.

Keeper plate has no stops or anything to need it fit one way.
 

RunAgroundHard

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My Blakes don't have an Arrow ... its just a plain line across top. If I put back 180 out - then opening in barrel is against seacock wall.... not to pipe.

Keeper plate has no stops or anything to need it fit one way.

The OP has the newer style of Blakes, your style is the older style and works as you state.
 

wizzer

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I had deduced that the outlet was in line with the curved part of the “valve stem”, hadn’t noticed the arrow on the head of the valve stem though 🙄
I still think that the keep plate is fitted 180 degrees out of line, note that the stop is in line with the inlet. According to what I can find out, the stop should be opposite the inlet. Hence the whole thing cannot operate as designed?
 

RunAgroundHard

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I had deduced that the outlet was in line with the curved part of the “valve stem”, hadn’t noticed the arrow on the head of the valve stem though 🙄
I still think that the keep plate is fitted 180 degrees out of line, note that the stop is in line with the inlet. According to what I can find out, the stop should be opposite the inlet. Hence the whole thing cannot operate as designed?

Correct, the stop (post that handle hits against) should be on the opposite side to that shown in your picture. It should look like my picture, I checked the alignment by looking inside.
 

johnalison

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It would be a simple thing to just remove the plate and look for yourself. In any case, this should be a part of routine service and greasing. Although better done out of the water, it is possible to bung the hole temporarily.
 

dombuckley

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It would be a simple thing to just remove the plate and look for yourself. In any case, this should be a part of routine service and greasing. Although better done out of the water, it is possible to bung the hole temporarily.
No need to be out of the water, as you don't need to remove the cone. Just undo the bolts securing the keep-plate, swing the whole assembly round 180 degrees, then refasten, Job's a goodun.
 

wizzer

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No need to be out of the water, as you don't need to remove the cone. Just undo the bolts securing the keep-plate, swing the whole assembly round 180 degrees, then refasten, Job's a goodun.
That’s what I was hoping. I just wondered if the “core” of the valve would be susceptible to popping out if the keep plate is removed?
 

vyv_cox

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That’s what I was hoping. I just wondered if the “core” of the valve would be susceptible to popping out if the keep plate is removed?
No problem removing the cone if needed. Have your wooden replacement in your hand, pull out the valve cone and push in the wooden one. Less than a litre of seawater should enter the boat.
 

harvey38

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That pipe attached to the seacock doesn't look the correct type as it is spiral wire reinforced and will easily clog...
 

johnalison

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No need to be out of the water, as you don't need to remove the cone. Just undo the bolts securing the keep-plate, swing the whole assembly round 180 degrees, then refasten, Job's a goodun.
True, but I was thinking that there was educational value in knowing how the valve was constructed.
 
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