Bilge pump issues

BOBCAL230

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Hi, I recently purchased a CAL 2 30. Its a work in progress, I'm finding a lot of issues to deal with. The MD7A engine is still overheating, Ive replaced the impeller and did a service oil change etc. I am looking at removing the therostat housing and exhaust maniflod to see if they are clear next. While working on that I found the dripless stuffing box is worn out and leaking, so Im taking the boat out of water to replace it next week. Meanwhile I'm trying to get the bilge pump switch to come on when water rises and pump it out but what it is doing is cycling on and off with the water that comes back in from the outlet hose. not sure if a check valve is an option here. The area where the bilge pump is located is not all that large an area down in the keel. so when the switch lever rises it pumps enough water until the switch lever falls, then shuts off, causing the water in the outlet hose to drain back into the bilge. That water is enough to raise the lever and it starts pumping that same water down. I was wondering what you guys did to get your bilge working correctly? Do I need a switch with a longer throw? if there is such a thing or maybe people use a check valve so that water can't come back in?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me!
 

Hypocacculus

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Have you check the installation instructions for your pump? Some recommend the use of an additional non-return valve, eg the Whale Super Sub 650. Ours has no back flow.
 

Caer Urfa

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Hi, I recently purchased a CAL 2 30. Its a work in progress, I'm finding a lot of issues to deal with. The MD7A engine is still overheating, Ive replaced the impeller and did a service oil change etc. I am looking at removing the therostat housing and exhaust maniflod to see if they are clear next. While working on that I found the dripless stuffing box is worn out and leaking, so Im taking the boat out of water to replace it next week. Meanwhile I'm trying to get the bilge pump switch to come on when water rises and pump it out but what it is doing is cycling on and off with the water that comes back in from the outlet hose. not sure if a check valve is an option here. The area where the bilge pump is located is not all that large an area down in the keel. so when the switch lever rises it pumps enough water until the switch lever falls, then shuts off, causing the water in the outlet hose to drain back into the bilge. That water is enough to raise the lever and it starts pumping that same water down. I was wondering what you guys did to get your bilge working correctly? Do I need a switch with a longer throw? if there is such a thing or maybe people use a check valve so that water can't come back in?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me!

Yes fit a none return flow valve making sure the arrow on it is pointing to the discharge end, typical as shown here http://www.marinechandlery.com/non-return-valve

Mike
 

lw395

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1) Make very sure the outlet of the hose is always above water level. Then only the contents of the hose will run back, not the whole ocean!
2) Sort the leaks out, I assume it's a plastic boat, unless it's an open cockpit you should not need an auto bilge pump. (sorry don't kno the Cal 2 30.)
3) Be very wary of your auto bilge pump pumping out oily water, some big fines available, rightly so IMHO.

Raising the float may help. A smaller bore hose may be less resistance than a non return valve. Once there are a few flakes of old paint in play, the NR valve will often drain back slowly, so the same game is played at a slower speed...
 

BOBCAL230

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Wow guys thanks for all your responses. I lost my computer access for a bit there and was unable to get back on here. I have solved my problem temporarily by going down to the boat and pumping out the water once a day and now every other day. This is until I replace the stuffing box. I had some jobs to finish up before I could have the boat taken out of the water to work on, and was trying to have the auto feature keep the water from the leaking stuffing box pumped. The outlet hose is above water, I am going to look for the non return valve. The problem I am always going to have is that I have it down in the keel, which is a small area that doesn't hold much water.The boat is a fiberglass hull sailboat. A time delay switch is something I can check into also. I have fixed all my oil leaks and have cleaned out the hull so no oil to discharge anymore. i think the problem is the small amount of water in the area and it only runs until the float valve drops again. Well when I fix the stuffing box later this week I shouldn't need an automatic anyway.
 

BOBCAL230

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If I were you, I would not remove the automatic switch when the stuffing box is repaired. You never know what might happen.

Yes no need to remove it. I'm disappointed it can not serve it's purpose of auto protection when away from the boat. I may put a back flow valve, still contemplating the situation. If I had realized it didn't have enough water volume in that area. I wouldn't have replaced the broken float valve that I found in there. I would have just used manual button.

Now for the fun part, replacing my stuffing box. I'm going from the worn out and leaking drip less to a standard stuffing box. I can see some hammer marks on my output shaft from someome. I sprayed everything with a good penitrating oil spray. If u have any words of wisdom to make my journey into that unknown easier, it's much appreciated!!!
 

Hypocacculus

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Now for the fun part, replacing my stuffing box. I'm going from the worn out and leaking drip less to a standard stuffing box. I can see some hammer marks on my output shaft from someome. I sprayed everything with a good penitrating oil spray. If u have any words of wisdom to make my journey into that unknown easier, it's much appreciated!!!

I'd suggest starting a new thread for that.
 
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