bilge pump float switch which one

Sixpence

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You just beat me to it Neville, I have literally just put my so called automatic/manual one back together after finding that the switch has had it. So same info for me please. Can't rely on being able to switch it on and off all the time.
 

michael_w

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My boat came with one of those air pressure jobbies. Seems to work OK. Benefit is no wiring underwater.

Dunno how well it works at sea, ongoing engine problems have prevented sea trials. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

Eeyore

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Agree with Michael W......air pressure/vacuum is best - nothing except the pump is submerged. The pump has sealed electrical connections and hence any DIY wiring is well clear of bilge water levels. Just make sure that the air hose is kept straight upward from the pump to the sensor, with no loops or surplus piping. Wiring on the float type switches tends to fail without notice leading to stray DC electric current and the bilge water becomes the electrolyte......galvanic corrosion sets in!
 

timtap

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Rule switches can work for anything from five minutes to fifty years . They seem to be a very unpredictable product so I now make them myself using a couple of ping pong ball in a tube coupled to a lever microswitch . Works Fine !!!
 

sailorman

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i have a superb "Index Marine" set-up only prob the sensor has gone titsup & cant get a replacement.
when it worked it woz brilliant /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
now only manual /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Come on Index Wot about spares /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 

Sy-Revolution

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I use a Water Witch bilge switch, they have no moving parts so can't get clogged up. I have a deep V shaped bilge that I couldn't get a float switch into (too narrow) but these fit nicely, Pump remains above the bilge and stays dry. They also have a 15 second over run so the bilge empties to the bottom (well almost).

http://www.waterwitch.info/products/bilgeswitch.html

It's been fitted for 2 years now and works fine.
 
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