Beta 20hp alarm problem

[orangemikey]

I have a Beta 20hp engine which i took out for a service i have now put the engine back into the boat and connected it back upto the switch panel but now whenever i turn the battery power switch on i get a constant quiet buzz from the alarm. Has anyone got any ideas what this could be?

Thanks in advance

 

[monkfish24]

You took out the engine to service it???? That seems pretty far to go just for a service.

I think the buzzer normally indicates that the alternator is not charging so you may well have connected it the wrong way round.

http://www.betamarinenw.com/Engines/Resources/Manual - Beta 10, BZ4#D8E09.pdf

 

[cliff]

<snip> whenever i turn the battery power switch on i get a constant quiet buzz from the alarm. Has anyone got any ideas what this could be?

Thanks in advance

Normal? In the dark ages when I had a boat with one of those marinised tractor engines I had the same situation - it was just a warning that the engine was switched on but not running - as soon as it started the alarm was silent until I shut the engine down then the alarm went off again warning me to turn the key to the off position.

 

[monkfish24]

Normal? In the dark ages when I had a boat with one of those marinised tractor engines I had the same situation - it was just a warning that the engine was switched on but not running - as soon as it started the alarm was silent until I shut the engine down then the alarm went off again warning me to turn the key to the off position.

Failed to realise that he hadn't mentioned that the engine isn't running

 

[30boat]

Failed to realise that he hadn't mentioned that the engine isn't running

Mine doesn't do that.The alarm(and it's not quiet)only buzzes when the key is turned to the heating plugs position.Maybe there's a bad connection somewhere.

 

[orangemikey]

Hi all, just to clarify.
I had to take the engine out for other reasons aswell as the service but thats all i have done to it.
The engine alarm does go off loadly when the key is in the ignition without the engine running but it goes off quietly when the key has been removed from the ignition and engine is not running which it didnt do before.
This means that whenever i am on the boat with the power turned on i get this slight noise coming from the panel.

 

[G12]

I have a Beta 20hp engine which i took out for a service i have now put the engine back into the boat and connected it back upto the switch panel but now whenever i turn the battery power switch on i get a constant quiet buzz from the alarm. Has anyone got any ideas what this could be?

Thanks in advance

Yes - I know what this is.

Check your alternator wiring is all correct with good contacts.
Mine does exactly that when the alternator is disconnected as I found out when fitting an external regulator.

G.

 

[orangemikey]

Thanks G12 thats sounds like it could be my problem!
I will have a play with it tonight and see if that fixes it (Fingers crossed)

Thanks again
Mike

 

[orangemikey]

Tried out G12's suggestion last night but couldnt get the buzzer to stop no matter what combination i connected the wires in. However when i took the two small wires off of the alternator the buzzer stopped but when i put them back on it starts again.
Anyone else got any ideas????

Thanks

 

[G12]

Is the alternator securely connected to the engine and does the engine have a good earth? Check for corrosion on all fittings/connectors and clean them. The B+ being disconnected or poorly connected caused this fault in mine too.
I was wondering if you'd painted the engine whilst it was out and possibly isolated the alternator electrically by doing this...

 

[earlybird]

I've got a Beta, hence some interest.
No real brainwaves, but, in the absence of wiring connection faults, two possibles are:-
1) A leakage of current from "30" terminal to "AC" terminal on key-switch; ie a fault on the switch. Check by taking wire off "AC" and seeing if there is a voltage on it with key "off"
2)A leakage between the alternator output terminal and the field winding. Detach the large red, (or brown) wire to see if noise stops. If so, a possible alternator fault.
I realise that neither of these possible faults are likely to stem from your work on the engine, so no holding of breath!

 

[BabaYaga]

Have you reconnected the positive and negative wires from the engine harness correctly when the engine was put back into the boat?
(You probably have, or the panel would not function at all...)
Just a wild guess, as I have the same engine.

 

[mjf107]

1) A leakage of current from "30" terminal to "AC" terminal on key-switch; ie a fault on the switch. Check by taking wire off "AC" and seeing if there is a voltage on it with key "off"

Is the panel in the cockpit as water ingress would be likely cause of the short mentioned by earlybired The user manual recommends a spray with WD 40, so its probably a known problem. This would also fit the symptom of the alarm not being as loud with the key removed ie a just enough leakage current flowing through the water from terminals 30 to AC to sound the electronic sounder.
Michael

 

[orangemikey]

Alternator follow up

Looks like the wires on the back of the alternator were pushed in the wrong way round and this has blown the alternator.
Stupid Beta design that both wires are brown and both wires fit on both pins!!! Beta even admitted that it is a common fault that people confuse these wires and blow their alternators up.

Beta also say that the alternator cant be fixed and i have to buy a new one from them!
Will wait and see what the verdict is from the alternator repair shop tommorow

Beta engines = -1point

 

[G12]

I always thought the wiring on my Beta was pathetic. They've used the thinnest stuff they can get away with. It's not even tinned cable. The solder joints on the back of the control panel are terrible too, looks like a child did them.
I think there is very little thought put into marinising these engines. The only bit of mine that someone has thought about is the oil drain pump - Nicely made in brass, has an isolating valve and a threaded cap with an O ring seal. Does the business.
The other bit I hate is the alternator belt passing very close to a rubber hose of the cooling circuit. Surely that should not be rubber there - I had to replace the hose as the old one started to chafe. The new one fits a bit better and there is about 10mm of clearance. The surveyor picked up on it when I bought the boat last year.

On another note, if you're changing alternators why not go for the 70A conversion? The engineering is SO much better. I think it's about £400 all in. For that you get 30A more grunt available and a decent modern flat belt setup to drive it.

 

[orangemikey]

Conclusion

G12,
I completely agree the oil pump is very very good but bits like the hose are a stupid design as mine has almost worn through aswell and ive had to wrap tape around it to try and make it last a little longer!
Anyway some good news is that beta dont know what there talking about when they say the alternator cant be fixed because i got a new regulator fitted in mine by a local car electrics chap for 20 quid! Better than betas "special" price of £100 for a new one.

Another -2 points for beta