Beta 13.5

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Grajan

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There has been discussions re the black belt dust on these engines and the suggestions made for curing this problem has been the fitting of a "cogged" belt, or the Beta conversion kit which I feel is expensive.Can anyone give me the part number for the cogged version save me taking the current one off and taking it to my local automotive supplier for a match?
 
Belt dust.

I've had a BD722 20hp on the boat for about 4/5 years.

The original simple v belt coded Mitsubishi remf 1345 did not dust.

I subsequently sourced and fitted a cogged belt supplied by Beta this new belt did create dust so I went back to the original simple belt - no dust.

Beta advise these original belts are still available from them.

So the cogged belt didn't work for me - is it your original v belt that's dusting ?
 
Crowblack said:
I've had a BD722 20hp on the boat for about 4/5 years.

The original simple v belt coded Mitsubishi remf 1345 did not dust.

I subsequently sourced and fitted a cogged belt supplied by Beta this new belt did create dust so I went back to the original simple belt - no dust.

Beta advise these original belts are still available from them.

So the cogged belt didn't work for me - is it your original v belt that's dusting ?
Click to expand...

Strange how these things differ as I also changed the belt on my 722 and the "cogged" belt reduced the dusting to almost nil!
 
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LittleSister said:
Note also that Beta say that belt dust is often a sign of an excessively warm (i.e. insufficiently vented) engine compartment.
Click to expand...

Correct. Beta looked into this some years ago after repeated reports of V-belt failures. They concluded that the belts (which themselves generate considerable heat through internal friction) were sensitive to high engine room temperatures.

Incidentally, all this talk of 'cogged' belts (usually called toothed belts, as per cam belts, for instance). But don't you all mean polyvee belts (ie, not timed and with longitudinal rather than lateral ribbing)?
 
macd said:
Correct. Beta looked into this some years ago after repeated reports of V-belt failures. They concluded that the belts (which themselves generate considerable heat through internal friction) were sensitive to high engine room temperatures.

Incidentally, all this talk of 'cogged' belts (usually called toothed belts, as per cam belts, for instance). But don't you all mean polyvee belts (ie, not timed and with longitudinal rather than lateral ribbing)?
Click to expand...

At last, I was trying to get my head around this 'cogged' belt stuff........

Polyvee was invented by Dayco Corp and also taken up by Gates which led to some serious litigation. Everybody now makes them.

Apologies for the short history lesson however the Polyvee belt was originally intended to work with a self tensioning idler. Self tensioning Dayco belts are far more reliable for power transmission than 'V' belts and do not require defined replacement intervals, simply a regular inspection on the internal ribs to check for cracking. Downside is that Polyvee belts are over three times the price of nasty old V belts.

The Dayco 'style' belt on the Beta engines has no automatic tensioner as it would be difficult as well as expensive to engineer on a low value motor.

The big difficulty I see with the Beta arrangement is the lack of self tensioner. Polyvee belts are very tension critical and unless alternator is graunched up properly these belts will make lodasadust. From an application engineering perspective taking a look at the pictures of Beta engines with this arragement they are less than perfect. Best practice when using Polyvee belts is to have an alternator belt wrap of around 60 degrees, looking at the pictures Beta have nothing like that, so tension will have to be mad tight to avoid belt slip.
 
Latestarter1 said:
The big difficulty I see with the Beta arrangement is the lack of self tensioner. Polyvee belts are very tension critical and unless alternator is graunched up properly these belts will make lodasadust.
Click to expand...

Beta stress not to overtighten their 'polyvee' belt (The one on the bigger engines and abn optional extra on smaller ones) - hand tight only.

Latestarter1 said:
From an application engineering perspective taking a look at the pictures of Beta engines with this arragement they are less than perfect. Best practice when using Polyvee belts is to have an alternator belt wrap of around 60 degrees, looking at the pictures Beta have nothing like that, so tension will have to be mad tight to avoid belt slip.
Click to expand...

That may be true, but it reminds me of years ago, working as a draughtsman, I had to look up best practice standards for chain drives. I realised that no motorbike I'd ever seen had sprockets big enough to meet those standards for the power involved, yet the arrangement has been used for over 100 years to successfully propel most motorbikes!
 
macd said:
Incidentally, all this talk of 'cogged' belts (usually called toothed belts, as per cam belts, for instance). But don't you all mean polyvee belts (ie, not timed and with longitudinal rather than lateral ribbing)?
Click to expand...
I'm sure that 'cogged' is the wrong term but I don't know what the correct word is.

I don't mean toothed belts that you might find driving a camshaft.

I don't mean the polyvee belts that Beta offer for the higher output alternators.

I mean a 'Vee' belt which has notches on the inside surface - I always assumed that the notches reuced the internal friction when the belt wraps round a small pulley.

This image is lifted from the site which I quoted earlier.

http://www.boatpartsandspares.co.uk/beta-marine-v-belt-mini-series-1243-p.asp

beta-v-belt-medium-.jpg


Ash
 
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ashonavega said:
I'm sure that 'cogged' is the wrong term but I don't know what the correct word is.

I don't mean toothed belts that you might find driving a camshaft.

I don't mean the polyvee belts that Beta offer for the higher output alternators.

I mean a 'Vee' belt which has notches on the inside surface - I always assumed that the notches reuced the internal friction when the belt wraps round a small pulley.

This image is lifted from the site which I quoted earlier.

http://www.boatpartsandspares.co.uk/beta-marine-v-belt-mini-series-1243-p.asp

beta-v-belt-medium-.jpg


Ash
Click to expand...


stocked in any Halford or good motor factor
 
sailorman said:
stocked in any Halford or good motor factor
Click to expand...
I'm not sure how you would find it without some sort of reference number.

I took the details off the belt which I have currently fitted

DAYCO 10A0875C 11 323019 MADE IN PRC
Click to expand...

I forgot to look at the old 'plain' belt which I got from Beta.

I think that the size / section / length information would be contained in
10A0875C
Click to expand...
but I don't know how to read it.

Ash
 
I would basically read 10A0875C 10mm wide and 875mm inside circumference,
don't know about the C unless it means cogged
10 mm wide is Z section, so don't know about the A either!
 
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ashonavega said:
I'm not sure how you would find it without some sort of reference number.

I took the details off the belt which I have currently fitted



I forgot to look at the old 'plain' belt which I got from Beta.

I think that the size / section / length information would be contained in but I don't know how to read it.

Ash
Click to expand...

Last time I went to buy filters I noted the ref. no. that was on the belt on mine. At the motor factors they couldn't id it from what I gave them & said just bring it in & they would do it on size...
 
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