Best way to restore blue gelcoat

Jez

The Meguaires system worked for me with a dual action polishing machine, oxidation remover, colour restorer, polish and wax.

It took me 4 days but the boat looks like new.

I took technical advice from the company in the US, as mentioned previously in this thread they stressed the importance of using 4 or 5 coats of a marine grade wax/sealant with UV filters to prevent future oxidation once completed and to apply wax after every wash.
 
Jul 07 MBM has a good article on them restoring the blue gelcoat of an old bayliner with great results using 3M products. Might be useful if you have it lying about somewhere.
 
Think if Jez can't I can probably put my hands on a copy of that /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Cheers
 
the problem areas are usually where fenders have been hanging, and the rear quarters, and usually this is where the most previous polishing has also been done, resulting in thin gelcoat.
On the broader areas, a fine cut and polish always seemed fine to me, but anything where the surface is facing "upwards" a bit, seems to suffer much more. You need to be very careful not to cut back too much, but if its very chalky, there may not be much salvage to be done.
 
Cut and polish will only fix it short term. If you want it right and as new, speak to Micky Frith at Hayling Glass Fibre Repairs.

You know it makes sense and it will look like new. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
This other site mentions G3...Highly recommend it.

This was before and it looked a lot worse than the photo shows



After



And that was with a couple of battery drills at the incorrect speed.

I plan to do it again with a proper polisher when I've done all the other jobs and I reckon it's going to come out well.
 
Jez............speak to Miki Frith! He did an awesome job on Pipedream!

N.B. one wonders how the black hulled Pred's will suffer in future Med sunshine? Anyone know? If its black gell will it fade like they all do in the end? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Jas.
 
Med boaters just spray awlgrip on. They don't have the same aversion to paint as UK boaters for some reason. On the v39 Jez/Chas, i wouldn't hesitate. I'd have it sprayed in Awlgrip then A glazed. Will look stunning for years. In the med it would need a respray at 4 years, which is fine, but not in the UK
 
I dunno the price, never asked. I imagine there are only a few good applicators in the UK. Berthon have a fab facility and do all the blue Princess hulls. It's all enclosed and climate controlled. But Berthon were never cheap (still not got over the £1200 bill for 2 dinghy chocks for our Phantom 42 in 1999!) so it wouldn't surprise me if they said £5k. Still, no harm in calling them to ask. Dave Street is the chief boat fixer there, top bloke, boat - knowledgewise

Thing is Jez, on reflection, why spend the money now? Maybe the best answer is polish/wax it hard now, and dont fret if the gelcoat on the rear quarters is getting very thin. See how it goes. If the polishing works ok then fine, no need for paint. Also if the boat needs to be sold for whatever reason you wont have painted it. Then in a year's time if the boat is fantastic and you know you wanna keep her 5 years, BUT the gel wont stay shiny, then get the paint job cos you know it'll be money well spent.

What I mean is, there's no need to make the decision now and it could be wasted money. You can rock up to Berthon anytime you like for a spray job. For now, save the money. And er spend it on a new radar /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
If there's plenty of gel coat left, it's a surface problem and can be restored to original colour and a shine better than new without the expense of paint.

To get back to original colour, you need to cut or polish it back. Compounding is the usual recommendation, but its better to cut away the minimum amount of gel coat by using the finest possible grade of polish or compound to do the job: cutting/ finishing compound for scratched areas, but a fine polish (colour and shine restorer) for dull or faded areas.

Leave it in the sun without any protection and it will be dull and lifeless again within a month or so, but if you apply a glaze system (ours is Ultraglaze) or a good Carnauba wax, it will be protected all season. Don't waste money and time on cheap car polishes - they just don't last.

To make it easy peasy, use a machine. The ideal machine for cutting compound and repair work is a rotary sander/polisher (£46), and you can use it with a foam pad for polishing. For just polishing and finishing, its quicker, cheaper and easier to use an orbital machine. These can't dig in or leave swirl marks and you can get a good one for £36.

The whole process is much cheaper and quicker than paint. Have a look at our website for more information.
 
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