Best way to restore blue gelcoat

Whitelighter

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Without re-gelling the whole thing, or painting it.

There are plenty of people who promise the earth and deliver an atlas in this department, so before shelling out what promises to be quite a bit of cash does anyone have anyexperience of bringing the colour back into a hull which has aged?

The boat is from a decent manufacturer so I am pretty confident there will be a good amount of gel used when new. So what the best solution, a stroing cut and several layers of polish, or one of the specialist treatments like GRProClean or similar.

Would anyone reccomend a preserving treatment such as Aglaze once its done to keep the results?

All comments welcome.
 
Jez, all the dark blue gelcoat fixes that I have seen, other than painting, have only been short term.
Cut it back and polish it and it will look good maybe for a few months, then do it again, and again, how often are you prepared to do it?
 
Dark blue usually responds well to cutting back with GRP rubbing compound using a closed cell foam compounding mop. In fact if it is not too bad even doing by hand works quite well.

Follow that with a good wax polishing and it should look like new although it will need repeating after a few years.

Avoid all the magic solutions! There is no such thing as magic.

Ultimately painting is the answer but that is something to avoid if possible because when the time comes to sell potential purchasers will always be suspicious of what dreadful things have been hidden by a coat of paint.
 
I know nothing last forever, but if I can get it cut right back, then made good I dont mind an annual polish and wax to keep it look smart.

Once its cust back, do any of there UV barrier treatments work or are the just fairy dust?
 
Seriously, Jez, I would recommend A Glaze for this sort of thing.

If you remember I used it for a couple of seasons on the old boat - mainly to tackle the engine soot but I would give it very serious consideration on coloured gelcoats. It is a polymer that soaks into the surface and stops that "dried up" look. Bit expensive but for this job worth it IMO.

Mike
 
Nop AFAIK you cant A Glaze over wax.

On the old Sealine, we cut it first using the 3M compound.
Then polished it using the A Glaze prep.
Then applied two coats of A Glaze - (four coats near the exhaust outlets).

Applying the actual A Glaze is very easy - just wipe on with a clean cloth - I think we actually put too much on - it went sort of dull and needed a very quick buff up when it had dried.

But it lasted well during the year and certainly make the soot easier to clean off - didnt stop the soot build up though. The second year was much easier to do as well.
 
The biggest problem once you have done all the hard work of cutting back and polishing that fab shine into the gel coat is.......... it will once again try and oxidise. This is what makes it look chalky. When you get around to applying the top coat finish, it is a bit like varnishing........... one coat is useless and is the reason that many have to re do it within the year!

Ask yourself, "why do classic car guys put several coats of polish on the paintwork" I watch people struggle getting a great finish on their boats and then do one coat of protective polish. Once you have got that shine you are or should be about 3/4 way through the job, in other words put loads of a good UV protection polish on.

From my classic car days I will recommend MER.... about six coats of it no less.

Tom
 
AH HA more clues hey!
Last week we had D-Tronic engines...........
Yesterday we had Princess covers.............
Today blue gel coat..................................
And it must have a comprehensive electronics package already fitted!
Are we allowed to guess wot's got you interested or you keepin us in suspense?
 
[ QUOTE ]
It's an easy one! The electronics in the boat ad give it away. Stunning boat!

[/ QUOTE ]

Aha, the electronics I have for sale are in my loft and *might* be surpluss to requirements.

Would love to know what you think I am looking at though...
 
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