Best place to buy engine service stuf?

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PhillM

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Just getting into doing my own servicing and looking for recommendations for where to buy the filters, etc. Any recommendations for online, or local presence Southampton area?

Also, I have a new Beta, what does the panel think about Beta branded stuff compared to compatible?

Finally, tips for anti-freeze both brands and sellers would be most welcome.
 
I mostly get mine from my local marine engineers. I'm probably paying over the odds but at least I know the people I'm dealing with when I need them.
 
I go into my local motor factors clutching the relevant part nos, about 30% saving on marine sources on names you have heard of, 50% on unfamiliar names.
 
PhillM said:
Just getting into doing my own servicing and looking for recommendations for where to buy the filters, etc. Any recommendations for online, or local presence Southampton area?

Also, I have a new Beta, what does the panel think about Beta branded stuff compared to compatible?

Finally, tips for anti-freeze both brands and sellers would be most welcome.
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Buy from Beta. The amount saved on 2 filters a year is not worth the hassle. Think you will find it a condition of your warranty that you use approved parts. Use the spec of coolant Beta advise. Brand is irrelevant. However, you should not need any on a new engine for some time as it is unlikely to use a significant amount without something being wrong. You can buy universal pre-mixed coolant for topping up small amounts.
 
Tranona said:
Buy from Beta. The amount saved on 2 filters a year is not worth the hassle.
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I bought a new 1GM10 filter last week. I bought a Yanmar one from a chandler, and it set me back a whopping seven quid. That's a lot for a small oil filter, but in the grand scheme of things it's not much and I was interested to note that it's a much, much better engineered thing than the Fram one I took off. Not worth saving a couple of quid.
 
For filters it is easy to nip down the car shop:

Oil - Fram 5317
Air - Fram CA15
Fuel - Fram P4766

These numbers are subject to change, the motor factor will advise. Best to eventually keep a used sample of each filter for comparison.

Zincsmart offer a great saving and are good to deal with. Make sure you get the brass plug tapped for their own replacement anodes - this is cheaper and saves throwing away the brass plug, with the old anode, every year.

This place offer a few bits but probably no cheaper than Beta:

http://www.boatpartsandspares.co.uk/beta-marine-heat-exchanger-o-rings-524-p.asp

For oil, most any 15 - 40 will do. I used to use Duckhams Diesel mineral stuff but that has disappeared. I make sure the oil has some letters eg: API - CF on the label. If it has nowt it has not been tested and certified and is best left on the shelf, although it is unlikely it would have any dreadful effects on your engine.

If you have a Johnson pump avoid the Johnson impellers, they crack. Buy Jabsco, (for the 6 screw Johnson pump) = Jabsco 653.0001.
 
Always worth looking on Ebay for people selling of new/old stock.
I bought 2 x genuine Yanmar 1GM10 impellers for £20 inc P+P which is about what you'd pay for one from a chandlers/Yanmar agent.

I would think that as that's a new Beta engine you have installed, going down the genuine route for the duration of the warranty period HAS to be the way to go. In the event of any warranty claim, if the engine is inspected and they find non genuine parts fitted, your claim would be rejected.
If you can afford the price of a new engine, then it would be foolish to cut corners whilst the engine is within its warranty period.
 
Thanks all, very helpful as always.

Good point re the warranty. Genuine parts it is.

Re the coolant, the book says to remove and clean the heat exchanger tubes every year, so I am assuming that I will loose coolant during that process.
 
PhillM said:
so I am assuming that I will loose coolant during that process.
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No need to loose it, just open the drain tap, collect it there and reuse. Also not necessary to take it all out, just enough to get the water level below the openings for the tube stack.
Regarding filters, note that the fuel filter (on the engine) only needs to be changed every 750 hours.
 
I've got Perkins Sabre M300ti engines. In the manual it says always use genuine Perkins oil filters because they have a special valve inside to stop oil coming out when you take them off (the filters are mounted upside down).

Fair enough I thought so I bought 8 genuine filters, enough for 2 services, from DB Marine. With delivery to Jersey it cost a bluddy fortune!

So I warmed up the motors and pumped all the oil out, took the first filter off (which also was genuine) and oil p****d out everywhere! There was no valve of any type in there the lying gits! What a waste of money...fuming...

Then I go to fit the new filters and they've sent me the wrong ones! Boat out of action for 2 weeks while I have to box up the filters, go to PO and send them back, wait for correct ones, numerous phone calls etc etc....now I'm ready to kill someone...

Next time I'm leaving the motors to stand for a week before I do an oil change, then there shouldn't be anything in the filters to spill out.

One good thing about the Perkins motors, the oil sump pump works really well, only took 5 mins to pump the sump out, much quicker and simpler than those Sealey vacuum pumps.

You'd think there'd be a Perkins dealership in Jersey ffs....

Oops I'm ranting all over someone's thread, sorry
 
Most car shpos and a considerable number of wholesale factors now trade on e bay offering direct discounts to the public.
Cross ref. the required items on various sites online-big filter manufacturers often have these as PDF downloads.
 
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