Best for keeping props clean.....

Garryt

Garryt

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Joined
30 Mar 2006
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841
Location
South West - Cornwall
www.filemakerservices.com
Just pulled the boat out for 5 days to give her bum a clean and polish up the props which have the usual crustacean elements attached to them!

What's the best way to stop / reduce the growth on props?

I've heard from several sources that the shinier they are, the better for resisting the little blighters, but has anyone got any secret formulas for keeping them clean...... I won't tell anyone I promise! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Using them works for me. Not much seems to cling on after a little while at speed.
Even if the boat has been idle for a long time they will very soon be clean again if used for just a short time
 
Yes - its Trilux with a difference. I run aluninium duo-props on VP 290 legs and this year (like last) I completely stripped them, acetone washed them, the ali etch primed them with two coats, then - and here's the trick - painted them with International Trilux. The difference being that I got hold of some very strong oleoresin capsacin which occurs naturally in chili peppers. The yanks distill it down and use for police pepper spray. I bought two spray devices (pepper spray pens) on ebay and emptied one in each small trilux can, then painted two coats on the 4 props, Result - they are as clean as a whistle. No fouling at all. Nothing will come near them. If left for a couple of weeks, there appears to be brown scum growth but this comes off as soon as the props rotate. Indeed, you can clean them by starting the engine(s) and putting the drive into gear whilst moored just a few seconds. Clean as a whistle!
 
Snap. No problem with growth on my props. Dust more likely!

Still good weather this weekend so we'll be out and about on Sunday.
 
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What's the best way to stop / reduce the growth on props?


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Employ a cheap diver to keep them clean. I tried Prop Shield and it was useless. Professionally applied by their agent in Majorca so ham fisted application can't be blamed
 
Interesting, we had it professionally applied in Dec & was still good in July, had it re-done by another in July & not as good. Spoke to agent about the difference who said there is a knack, bit like french polishing, the more effort used in application the better the results. Needs to be applied with both heat & friction, especially when using spirit.
 
Funny you should ask but I saw this at SIBS and some case history photos of a boat lifted after 2 & 1/2 years. It only had a lttle scum mark at the waterline. I think I might try it!

Think of the fuel saving. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Works on digital ultrasonics at variable frequencies.
You can see it here... Ultrasonic-antifouling

BTW. Works on props, outdrives and all underwater bits, but location of sender is quite important on more complex shapes , they say on the FAQ sheet.
 
You're right No audible sound systems work for animals, epecially Moles!

They are not even supposed to advertise tham anymore and you are within your rights to take them back for a refund under the sale of goods act.

But for algae (seaweed & barnacles) it's seems to be different.
 
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Using them works for me. Not much seems to cling on after a little while at speed.
Even if the boat has been idle for a long time they will very soon be clean again if used for just a short time

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Hmm don't agree with that. My boat has always been used more than most and I still have to regularly clean the props. Once weed/slime/barnacles are stuck to it they stay stuck! Only way for me is to give them a good scrub underwater with stainless wire wool or the like every month or so.

I guess a lot depends on where you keep your boat, ie water conditions and whether it's conducive to growth of the little nasties.
 
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You're right No audible sound systems work for animals, epecially Moles!

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I did hear once that an old transistor radio playing Terry Wogan on Radio 2 seems to keep the moles away - but then it kept me away as well!!!
 
Just to let you know.......

I've used a lanolin based product for my props and one shaft.

I've left the other shaft with nothing on it to see if there is a big difference.

I'll be pulling the boat out next June to have a look to see how its progressing.

It was quite awkward to apply, but to make it a little easier, I used a heat gun to melt the lanolin (which came in a tub) and applied it with a cloth.

The best news though, is that after only being able to achieve 22.5 knots last week and 2,600 RPM, after launch yesterday I managed 27.7 knots and 2,850 RPM on both engines, which is about the max. I have rope cutters and strippers fitted, which shave off a knot or so apparently.

I'm sure I can get another knot or so out of it as well, as there are now a few layers of antifoul on the bottom, the rudders and trim tabs are quite rough, and coated with antifoul.

Next time out, I'm going to strip the hull, rudders and "P" brackets, polish them up and apply the lanolin based product if it works!

During this lift out I had to replace the striker plate for the port stripper. Actually, not "replace", but fit a new one, as the other one had disappeared for some reason? The bolts hadn't sheared, but were gone, along with the striker plate.

I also had to replace a trim tab motor, as it had got a bit waterlogged.

I must also thank Ambassador (rope strippers & cutters) and Trickett Marine Products (Eltrim Trim Tab), for their prompt service and help.

Also thanks to JJ at Mechanical Services in Weymouth for his assistance. Mechanical Services fitted the original strippers for me and within a minute could give me the full details of the make model of the strippers the fitted 20 months ago.

JJ gave me some useful tips, like, to clean the strippers, remove them and put them in vinegar overnight. As if by magic, they were like new the next day!
 
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