Best choc block to reconnect cut radar wire?

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chockswahay

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Hi Team,

I know this has been asked before but I cannot readily find the answer (that'll be old age for you!). When the boat was taken out of the water last year the mast was unstepped, I had to cut the radar wire in order to do this. Now we are about to launch in a few days so the 'problem' is coming back to haunt me! The boat is a Vancouver 28 and the Radar is an ageing Furuno. There is plenty of excess wire and a good space above the plywood headlining to fit a choc block type of connector.

Does anyone have any recommendation for any particular connector please?

Many thanks :)
 
I used Wago connectors the other week for some home DIY - Never going to look back - just so much better than chocolate blocks!

Apparently there is a lot of counterfeit ones on the internet so buy from reputable retailer!
 
I doubt any "choc block" connector is better than others I used one on a V27 and a V34 for many years without any problem, on the 34 I did put it inside a small box for some reason that escapes me at the moment. All the other connections, lights anemometer etc were treated the same without problem, the VHF was an inline BNC connector though.
 
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Is it a coaxial cable?
Then do a proper job and put two connectors on each side of the split and use a barrel connector.

Then next time you take the mast down, you can just unscrew one connector and then screw it back up again.
 
westernman said:
Is it a coaxial cable?
Then do a proper job and put two connectors on each side of the split and use a barrel connector.

Then next time you take the mast down, you can just unscrew one connector and then screw it back up again.
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If it is a modern Garmin Radar it will be 5 twisted pairs.
 
westernman said:
Is it a coaxial cable?
Then do a proper job and put two connectors on each side of the split and use a barrel connector.

Then next time you take the mast down, you can just unscrew one connector and then screw it back up again.
Click to expand...
Radar is a multi small wire cable or at least it was for the OPs vintage radar, it will also be a problem sourcing a small enough connector to pass through the deck gland a Vancouver 28 is a deck stepped mast.
 
Fr J Hackett said:
Radar is a multi small wire cable or at least it was for the OPs vintage radar, it will also be a problem sourcing a small enough connector to pass through the deck gland a Vancouver 28 is a deck stepped mast.
Click to expand...

Depends on the age of the radar, older Furuno radars has a coax cable mixed in with the multiple thin wires.
 
PaulRainbow said:
Depends on the age of the radar, older Furuno radars has a coax cable mixed in with the multiple thin wires.
Click to expand...
I had an early Raymarine or their predecessor companies radar a Pathfinder which had a coaxial sheath I twisted the sheathing into a single filament on both ends of the cut cable and joined them with a choc block connector with no observable ill effects. That was nearly 30 years ago I probably wouldn't do it now. 😁
 
Graham376 said:
Don't know if they have a specific name but I've used one of the block connectors with plates to stop the screws cutting the wires.
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It is called a pressure plate. Chock blocks designed for stranded wire use them to prevent strand damage, and chock blocks designed for solid wire (house wiring) do not, since the screw biting into the wire increases security. There are two different types for two different purposes. Most DIYs (not you) do not know this.

Chock blocks have greater pullout strength than Wego connectors. Wego connectors are ONLY rated for used inside a box with strain relief. They are actually no stronger than properly installed wire nuts (testing) and have similar limitations. I like them and use them for some things, but they are not substitutes for chock blocks and terminal strips.
 
thinwater said:
It is called a pressure plate. Chock blocks designed for stranded wire use them to prevent strand damage, and chock blocks designed for solid wire (house wiring) do not, since the screw biting into the wire increases security. There are two different types for two different purposes. Most DIYs (not you) do not know this.

Chock blocks have greater pullout strength than Wego connectors. Wego connectors are ONLY rated for used inside a box with strain relief. They are actually no stronger than properly installed wire nuts (testing) and have similar limitations. I like them and use them for some things, but they are not substitutes for chock blocks and terminal strips.
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FYI wire nuts are expressly forbidden in UK/Europe standards.
 
Bear in mind that choc block connectors generally have steel screws which WILL go rusty. The blocks themselves are generally (universally?) brass. I tapped all my choc blocks M4 (I think) and replaced the steel grub screws with stainless. I always use bootlace ferrules on the cable ends.
 
PaulRainbow said:
FYI wire nuts are expressly forbidden in UK/Europe standards.
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The ABYC prohibits them on boats, where they can damamge finely stranded wire. However, I believe you will find that Wegos are restricted to boxes with strain relief, just like wire nuts, suggesting they may not be the right choice for the OP.

The issues on terrestrial wiring is above our pay grades and I'm pretty sure we are not quilified to discuss standards development. Different types of wire are used and there are probably politics involved as well. Suffice to say they seem to work. I've also seen push-in and lever connectors done wrong many times. I can't think of a connector I have not seen screwed up, including soldering, crimped rings, wire nuts and Wegos.
 
Crikey! Just when I thought I had it sussed.... The wire won't be under any stress or tension as the joins will be inside the cabin just below the wire entry point. FWIW I'm not hell bent on Wago and the like..... I just want an (easy?) reliable connection. If anyone can steer me in the right direction that would be grand (y)
 
I have never used Wego connectors. I found that what ever you use spade or bayonet connectors wrapping the join using self amalgamating tape did the trick for me.
 
I wrote up Wago 221's in a Wiska box thread here;

NMEA 1803 cable upgrade

Base Wago 221-41x can take upto 4mm2 wire (and very small). They make a larger version of 221-61x that take up to 6mm2 cable (and slightly larger min size). The larger ones are not available as the inline connectors.

I prefer to use the side by side versions as I find it easier to put these in boxes, with the stripped outer insulation and enough service length to manipulate the wires. YMMV.
 
gregcope said:
NMEA 1803 cable upgrade

Base Wago 221-41x can take upto 4mm2 wire (and very small). They make a larger version of 221-61x that take up to 6mm2 cable (and slightly larger min size). The larger ones are not available as the inline connectors.

I prefer to use the side by side versions as I find it easier to put these in boxes, with the stripped outer insulation and enough service length to manipulate the wires. YMMV.
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I just had a butchers..... V nice (y) I don't think I will have room for the boxes but the rest has given my a few ideas thanks
 
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