Batteries die but can't find the reason.

Another plausible explanation is nothings broken every things within spec .
What’s actually happening is the alternator ( or alternators if a twin ) in the OB produces enough juice to power the engine and there’s not much left over spare as the boat builder did net sell it with a motor .
Theses days stuff like ECU,s ,vario cam drivers , other servo s as well as the actual spark deneration from the ignition modules .
Choise of motor(s) is a dealer and buyers decision in the local market ,
Obviously the boat builder will recommend the various HP set ups .But theses tables might be more empirical and any magazine tester if any only has the thing for 1/2 day or so .
So the hull / boats leaves the factory for export at one end of the world shrink wrapped and languishing on a ship .
The motors are built and developed at the other end of the world for a range of markets packaged in a crate or box .
Ever increasing emissions demands , Hp demands , light weight demands , dare I say it component cost cutting means reduced alternator output ,

Off the top of my head bit like a variable speed fan viscous coupling on a fan with a car engine , or electric water circulation pump tuned to an ounce of output there may well be with the OB a “ smart alternator “ coupling = only deliberately tuned to give out ( and this use energy ) exactly and no more juice than what it needs .

The expectation is that it replaces only what’s it removed from the boat batteries the juice used to crank at start , no more .

The expectation from the OB manufactures is the boat builder has fitted a charger on shore power for battery maintenance .

Or there is surplus in bucket loads but the rest of the running stuff on the dash etc is power hungry ,so after a 2 hr run that other stuff has actually made a tiny depletion because the alternator (s) misery output can’t keep up .
Obviously a bilge pump or what ever at the mooring is not the OB manufacturers problem .
 
You don,t need anything expensive to do a simple DIY bit of diagnostics
Get one of theses it’s got multiple uses , a basic DC multimeter .
https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d0...MIuLjI4afH4AIVrbvtCh1MJg30EAQYCCABEgIUMfD_BwE

As you infer about 12.7 V or higher is acceptable. Any lower and generally batts are knackered.
Connect it up and start the engines to see the alternator output should rise maybe go up as high as 14 v ,
Turn on your normal gear and go for a run and see what happens to the voltage, turn off the engine(s) and immediately look at the voltage then return next day and check again .
From this you will have a base , running alternator IN , running usage Net , and net charge if any after a run , and finally next day storage / holding power or any secret drain .
 
I am not sure you can get one of those for DC Current can you ?

Must do. I have one to measure the amps being pulled by a leccy motor in my RC planes. I use it to check motor load against prop pitch for set voltages. One glider is a right speed demon with a 8x16 pitch. (you'll appreciate that- Vertical launch for 500m in about 5 seconds and the motor is till roasting 15 minutes later when you land.)
 
This is the one I have. It's cheap, does DC amps and has been a godsend finding a parasitic drain on my car. Seems very accurate too.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/UT210E-Cur...qid=1550572348&sr=8-3&keywords=dc+clamp+meter

fwiw,

I also do have the same Uni-T, brilliant piece of kit for as long as it worked!
Had to do an open heart operation on it over Xmas as it was missing and jumping from Ohms to Volts and back again. Thought it was batteries, but wasn't. Turned out that the rotary selector became slightly loose and would wobble perpendicular to the main rotation shaft. After a bit of head scratching got a flake of plastic jammed it in the hole, nice and tight, works fine :D

Not suggesting to avoid it, just handle it with care and don't do what I do with my tools throwing them about in the e/r, bilges, you name it :rolleyes:

Absolute must in debugging DC issues in the boat and car.

V.
 
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