Basic rigging question

SAWDOC

SAWDOC

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Hi
Can anyone give me the correct term to describe this type of rigging joint?

secondly Is it something one can do oneself with the correct tool - seems straightfoward? I may need to shorten my forestay by a few inches. Image shows mast top detail lying horizontally.

Thanks

DSCF2046.jpg
 
Its called a Talurite swage.... and yes, they can be done with the correct tool.... but not easy above about 4mm......

If I was you, i'd investigate options with a swageless terminal available from people like S3i.... neater, stronger and probably easier...
 
It's a 'talurit splice'

It's easy enough to do but the machine you need is a high powered hydraulic ram and very expensive. You may as well take it to a rigger, they won't charge much for one.

Altenatively, if you're not using the sheave above it, maybe you could drill the hole out to take the pin and move the whole thing up?
 
Thanks for those suggestions. It is one of those situations where I am adjusting the mast foot whereby I hope to remove excessive 18 inches mast rake. I am trying to predict what effect this will have on the forestay length. I have a good size bottle screw at the deck end which gives me 100mm of flexibility. It is something I would prefer to have right bfore launching rather than scratching ones head while the crane driver looks on.
 
If you're having the eye re-made, I suggest that you ask the rigger to fit a thimble. This will be kinder to the wire strands, rather than having them fretting directly on the pin.
 
Looks like 7x19 SAWDOC, that's 6 strands round a wire heart strand (or possibly rope heart but I doubt it) 1x19 is the 'smoother' looking stuff normally seen in stainless standing rigging.
 
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Looks like 7x19 SAWDOC, that's 6 strands round a wire heart strand (or possibly rope heart but I doubt it) 1x19 is the 'smoother' looking stuff normally seen in stainless standing rigging.

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thank you.
i have a spare length in the shed which I can attack with a hacksaw. If I understand the above correctly, for 7x19 should i have 6 strands around a central core?
 
Yes, that's the usual lay-up. This is a generalisation but...you will find the core or heart is wire strands which are less flexible than the six outer strands, it acts as a 'backbone' if you like. 1x19 wire is as stated, 19 strands simply laid up together round a heart, and this is the usual standing rigging, normally much less flexible than your 7x19. I'm sure you already know but if you are going to cut the wire, put a seizing on each side of the cut first, or you can simply bind it with tape. Otherwise the wire will be inclined to unlay when you don't want it to.
 
If you are moving the mast foot back to remove rake then the top of the mast will remain in virtually the same place. If you are shortening the forestay to remove rake then use pythagorus to calculate the change required.
 
Its a Talurit splice, and if you are going to remake it PLEASE put a thimble in it. Even with 7x19 the acute turn on the pin will seriously stress and weaken the wire, and it will fail prematurely. A thimble will support it and spread the load comfortably while preventing the wire from being damaged.

A Swageless terminal as suggested will solve this particualr proble, and if made up correctly (not difficult) is stronger than a Talurit, though both are amply strong enough for 5mm wire. It is easily done DIY too.
 
Or one other suggestion that after the mast is up you could replace the turnscrew at the bottom with a pair of SS plates of appropriate length.
A rig often doesn't need a turnscrew in the forestay because it can be made slack by loosening the backstay and sidestays.

Your wire looks like a variation on 7X19 or similar. 1X19 is usually used for standing rigging being cheaper. The 7x19 has many more individual strands so can flex around pulleys etc. If you do need to reterminate the end the might consider replacing the whole forestay. They are usually only reliable for 10 to 15 years.
Around here 2 different chandlers have the swage machine and would do it for a couple of squid. olewill
 
From your intended method of fitting i.e. with the mast up, you don´t have much choice. If you are not sure about culculating the new length, have a rigger put in the new top splice (with thimble)in fresh wire, hold the mast up with a halyard and cut and fit a new swageless terminal. Do check that the terminal is compatable with 7 X 19.
This way means you can play around with the rake before committing the hack saw. BTW, if off the boat, I usually tape the wire then cut it with an angle grinder fitted with a thin disc. Hack sawing wire is not nice esp. 7X19. If on the boat make sure no grinding sparks hit the deck (big thick wet cloth). I havn't tried it yet, but a cordless dremel type tool might be useful for one 5mm cut.
A
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi
Can anyone give me the correct term to describe this type of rigging joint?

secondly Is it something one can do oneself with the correct tool - seems straightfoward? I may need to shorten my forestay by a few inches. Image shows mast top detail lying horizontally.

Thanks

DSCF2046.jpg


[/ QUOTE ]

what you have is a Talurite swage with a soft eye.

This splice was done professionally as it is pressed in one pass as the outside of the splice is a continuous smooth finish.

The tool required to make an exact copy of your splice is very expensive (about £1000 +). A custom die and very high presure is required.

There is a lower cost option with a hand held version which will splice up to 6mm wire. With this tool the head is much narrower than the length of your ferule and several (normally three) passes are required to press the swage.

This gives a ribbed surface on the outer face of the splice. It is still up to the task if done correctly.

Your soft eye means that the wire is formed into a very tight bend where it goes rounr the pin at the masthead. This very considerabely weakens the wire.

Much better is to use a hard eye which has a thimble inside the loop. This keeps the wire at the pin at a less acute angle and it will be much stronger.

Normally 4mm 1x19 stainless wire is the maximum that is used for a hard eye as it is very difficult to bend thicker wire around the ferule.

Your 5mm wire appears to use the more flexable construction of either 7x7 or 7x19 instead of 1x19 and because of that it should be possibe to splice a hard eye on it.

If you were near me I could do it for you in a few minutes but you have not filled in your location in your profile.

You could fit a swageless terminal from the likes of a Petersen Stainless one from S3i but remember you must buy the correct terminal to match your wire construction.

I find the Petersen Stainless swegeless terminals are very easy to use and they are made in the UK. THey can also be reused.

It should not be too difficult to get someone to swage on a hard eye to your wire locally to you. If you happen to be in Scotland send me a PM and I could do it for you.

Iain
 
Iain,
I made a 20 ton swager from a bottle jack and welding up a frame around it. Cost about €30 (for the jack) The swages I made from two bits of 16x16 mm. bar with bolts to line up and drilled the correct size hole for the finished swage at the join. Works a treat. I tested a couple to destruction just in case.
I also had a hand model with two bolts, pretty useless excpt for the smallest size...which I didn't need.
A
 
hi
My boat spent 25 years on the Clyde but is now happily sailing the west coast of Ireland. Thanks for an excellent informed reply.
I accept the point about the soft vs hard eye. My present emphasis is to establish whether or not I need to shorten the forestay, having removed the excessive rake, and if so I will improve on the existing arrangement.
 
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