Basic Autopilot

yimkin

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4 Dec 2004
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I sail a small boat (Victoria 800) and my requirements for an autopilot are simple. I need it to be robust, waterproof, and with the standard 4 buttons for course alteration. I require it to steer a set course; and that's it. I do not require it linked to any other electronic devices, I do not require it to perform tacks or any other manoeuvres just to steer in a straight line.
Does anyone know of such a device?
 
You have 2 mainstream options.
Raymarine ST
Simrad TP

There are some other options which are a little more home-brew.

Ive owned both ST and TP. I prefer TP.
 
I've just end for ended my anchor chain, and have marked it as usual with coloured cable ties. I anchor about 100 times a year. The essential thing with cable ties is to leave them slack and fit them in pairs. It's highly unlikely that both ties will disappear at the same time. It's one of the many things on a boat that you keep an eye on, and replace as necessary. If you paint your chain and then want to get it galvanised, the galvaniser will insist on the chain being completely grit blasted first, which will cost extra.

This seems to have gone to the wrong thread. Afloat with a dodgy internet connection. ?
 
Ohh, interesting.
My ST1000 has just gone belly up and I was going to get another.
Why do you guys prefer the TP?
 
I have owned 2 or 3 TPs and 2 or 3 STs. I also have an old AH800 spare that still works. The TP appears to last longer before damp gets in. The TP has better override function for seastate.. The TP appeared to overheat in very hot sunny weather, it needed a wet tea towel or shade over it. The TPs both broke the plastic retaining bar across the drive arm. The st interfaces with my sea talk, so currently I have an ST. The st I think needs a cover over it to keep the worst of the wet off it. For longevity the TP I reckon is slightly better. I have never found the display on the st very useful.
 
Why do you guys prefer the TP?
My TP10 was as good as the day I bought it when I sold the boat 10 years later. It had been in rain that can only be described as scuba conditions on many occasions. I had to replace the plug annually, but that was not part of the device so doesn't really count :D
 
I have a TP which has done sterling service for 14 years.

It can't handle certain sea states though no matter how much one adjusts the settings.

Have you tried sheet to tiller steering. Cheap n cheerful, no electronics, works in the wet. A bit of a faff to set up but can be done with some line, bungee cords, and a couple of turning blocks.
 
I've had a couple of TP10's on my Kingfisher 26. Good for motoring but would overheat sailing – struggling with the unbalanced rudder I guess. Doubt if a problem on most (modern) boats.

Problem is there's a little plastic bulkhead inside holding the motor in position. This would get soft and distort, allowing the motor to move, loosing drive belt tension. Unit would still steer, but at the end stops the motor would carry on, with the belt slipping, making a horrible noise.

Pelagic system not mentioned so far on this thread. Don't know much about them, just have the impression they're on the next level in ‘seriousness’ and expense. Might have looked into one if I still had the boat.
 
Hey there, can you expand on the home - brew versions please?


The Pelagic (mentioned above) is the American unit made by the one man band using off the shelf actuators. There have been supply problems mentioned etc, etc so I would think it is not really a practical proposition.

You have a boat that will not put excessive loads on self steering so could get away with a TP10 most of the time, the 22 would be quicker and more powerful and the 32 would be best of all, quick, powerful and a step up in construction. Capable of steering your boat even in very poor circumstances, see specs here:

https://www.defender.com/pdf/TP10-22-32_Simrad.pdf

Prices are roughly 400 , 500 and 600 pounds. The Raymarine 2000 is comparable to the 32 not quite as powerful but a bit cheaper.

I also think the Simrad is better protected from water ingress but not brilliant, make a little jacket for it and watch to O ring arm seal. If you want a powerful unit, I think you have to live with the fact that it contains electronics and interfaces that you do not want and may never use.


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