Balsa core decks

I have got my eye on a boat that has got one but I have heard terrible scare stories about them.Can they be trusted & what are the pointers to look out for?
Any advice welcome.

No personal experience, but from reading around I understand that surveyors will walk the entire deck feeling for differences in springiness underfoot then apply their judgement as to whether it's delamination or wastage of the balsa core. You could try doing the same and if you find anything decide whether to have it surveyed or walk away. Snag with that is if, like me, you have zero experience and then don't find anything it doesn't tell you there's not a problem :(

Might be worth going to see the boat and checking as above and also very careful examination around the deck gear to see if there's any obvious ingress of water. If the boat obviously looks well cared for and the owner says they've not had problems then splash for a survey...

Boo2
 
You'll be hard pressed to find a boat that doesn't have balsa cored decks these days.They're perfectly ok as long as fittings are properly sealed which is not hard to achieve with modern sealants.Occasionaly you'll come accross a boat with soggy decks but that's easy to spot if not so easy to repair.
 
End grain balsa is probably the most widely used core material. It isn't the balsa that causes problems, it's badly maintained fittings that allow water into the core and eventually rot it.

If there are few fasteners going into the deck any damage is likely to be restricted but where there are a lot of fasteners, as with a screwed down teak deck, there is much more potential for water ingress.
 
There are two potential issues. The first is a failure of the bond between the balsa and the GRP skins which manifests itself in springiness of the panel. Most obvious in large flattish panels such as foredecks. The second is water absorption through poorly sealed fittings, although many builders try to bolt through fittings in solid areas. As already noted, screwed on teak decks are probably the worst potential offenders.

Cored decks are very common, so surveyors know how to spot potential failures.
 
Use a surveyor who uses thermal imaging ,you get the full picture of what is going on with the balsa core.
 
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There are two potential issues. The first is a failure of the bond between the balsa and the GRP skins which manifests itself in springiness of the panel. Most obvious in large flattish panels such as foredecks. The second is water absorption through poorly sealed fittings, although many builders try to bolt through fittings in solid areas. As already noted, screwed on teak decks are probably the worst potential offenders.

Cored decks are very common, so surveyors know how to spot potential failures.

Agree with the above, don't be put off by this construction method. Your surveyors will check the deck areas for separation and moisture ingress, but both remain rare as long as the vessel has been correctly maintained and through deck fittings correctly installed and located.
 
You really don't have a lot of choice if you want a boat that is less then ten years old... Maintenance is critical - you need to inspect all joints and seals regularly and fix any that are showing signs of opening up.

You could look at Bavaria - they use a foam core in place of balsa, so should be a bit more resistent to water damage. On the other hand, they have their own issues with (possibly) excessively light construction elsewhere.

We resisted balsa cored decks for a while, but eventually gave in since there was effectively no choice - within our price band, at least.
 
If you're looking at the cheap Arpege the deck is less of a worry than the osmosis :) There are a few threads on here about this boat although I think someone is in the process of buying it?
 
The most common cause of damage I see on balsa cored decks is the use of sealant only.

Any and all holes should be drilled oversize and filled with a mix of epoxy resin and Micro-fibres then re drilled to the required size after curing.

This protection for balsa and support the added stress if thru bolting.

When thru bolting it's also important to spread the load by adding more Micro-fibres and resin between the backing plate and the underside of the deck.

Also note all backing plated should have well rounded corners on ALL edges.

Good luck and fair winds. :)
 
The most common cause of damage I see on balsa cored decks is the use of sealant only.

Any and all holes should be drilled oversize and filled with a mix of epoxy resin and Micro-fibres then re drilled to the required size after curing.

This protection for balsa and support the added stress if thru bolting.

When thru bolting it's also important to spread the load by adding more Micro-fibres and resin between the backing plate and the underside of the deck.

Also note all backing plated should have well rounded corners on ALL edges.

Good luck and fair winds. :)

Sounds complicated & clearly I am going to have to get a book out the library if I acquire a boat with a balsa core.
It has occurred to me that you can probably detect trouble by tapping the deck with something like a light wooden mallet.A sound deck should give a good resonance where as a dodgy one would give a dull thud?
 
Sounds complicated & clearly I am going to have to get a book out the library if I acquire a boat with a balsa core.
It has occurred to me that you can probably detect trouble by tapping the deck with something like a light wooden mallet.A sound deck should give a good resonance where as a dodgy one would give a dull thud?

I was going to suggest just that.A deck in good shape will always give off a sharp sound.
 
Sounds complicated & clearly I am going to have to get a book out the library if I acquire a boat with a balsa core.
It has occurred to me that you can probably detect trouble by tapping the deck with something like a light wooden mallet.A sound deck should give a good resonance where as a dodgy one would give a dull thud?

That's a good start, but if the price is anything significant, you do need a surveyor to run a moisture meter all over her...

It is possible to repair rotted balsa cored decks - there are some commercial solutions around - but it is expensive and a lot of work - particularly if you want it to look good when you've finished.
 
GRP Maintenance and Repair Book To Download

Sounds complicated & clearly I am going to have to get a book out the library if I acquire a boat with a balsa core.....

Better than the library, why dont you download your own Fiberglass Boat Repair Book. A very useful book I have found. Good for most GRP work and certainly includes balsa cored deck repairs.
 
If you're looking at the cheap Arpege the deck is less of a worry than the osmosis :) There are a few threads on here about this boat although I think someone is in the process of buying it?

I understand that an Arpege has no main bulkhead. So if the deck has no strength in it, whats keeping the shroud base apart? Probably worse than osmosis....
 
I understand that an Arpege has no main bulkhead. So if the deck has no strength in it, whats keeping the shroud base apart? Probably worse than osmosis....

They have a main bulkhead but it's quite possible that it is attached to the fiberglass lining.I don't know of any problems in that area.
 
That's a good start, but if the price is anything significant, you do need a surveyor to run a moisture meter all over her...

It is possible to repair rotted balsa cored decks - there are some commercial solutions around - but it is expensive and a lot of work - particularly if you want it to look good when you've finished.

Thanks for that advice but I am unlikely to afford a surveyor.Might have a crack at buying one of those water meters on ebay if my infatuation with this particular make & type of boat persists.
 
Better than the library, why dont you download your own Fiberglass Boat Repair Book. A very useful book I have found. Good for most GRP work and certainly includes balsa cored deck repairs.

Thanks very much for that link very helpful.I don't suppose you have one for people like me that have never owned a diesel before & need to check the things out/maintain them?
Something that points out which are good & which are bad would also be wonderful.
 
Thanks for that advice but I am unlikely to afford a surveyor.Might have a crack at buying one of those water meters on ebay if my infatuation with this particular make & type of boat persists.

If the boat is of any value you cannot afford not to have a surveyor unless you are prepared to end up with a worthless boat then have difficulty in getting rid of it!

Its OK if you have the knowledge and confidence to make your own assessment and live with the consequences, but if you want to buy a relatively trouble free boat then a professional opinion is worth it.
 
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