Bahamian Moor, do you use one, how do you assemble it, how do you lay it?

[Neeves]

Following on from my anchor in a 'V', fork, and as it was raised on the thread, I further wondered about a Bahamian moor.

I've never, ever, used one - so I don't know how to lay one - though I know the theory - and there is a large distance between theory and reality. Norman is a great proponent, and has a specially designed custom made swivel, but I don't recall many claiming to have used one so I wondered how common? When are they used (as they seem a lot of effort) and are there right and wrong ways to lay.

And to dispel any suggestions - there is not an article in the offing - dangerous to write articles or post on threads on topics about which you know so little.

Jonathan

 

[KellysEye]

http://www.sailingtoday.co.uk/practical/set-bahamian-moor/ The option that works much better, which I used, is a riding sail https://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=riding sail

 

[Neeves]

Thanks Kelly,

I'd rather this did not become 'my alternative anchoring method is better than yours' - this is a genuine request to identify real life use of a Bahamian moor and how to do it (I knew of the ST article as I was asked to contribute an image, not used). But nice to know you like a riding sail - but have you used a Bahamian moor?

Your post was still appreciated

Thanks

Jonathan

 

[zoidberg]

I can think of a handful of anchorages nearer to home where a 'Bahamian moor' might be helpful....

Here, between Tresco and Bryher, in Scilly. The 'lower east side' has a string of Duchy moorings, often full. The tidestream sets NW-SE, of course, and when a vigorous system blows through, one would want to limit the swing to avoid entanglement with those on the moorings.

Her's another, in the Lynher River just west of Plymouth. The stream runs hard, both ways, and should the wind veer at turn of tide, one could have a close acquaintance with the southern bank. This anchorage, once virtually deserted, is often popular at weekends with locals who are justifiably underconfident in their anchoring techniques.

I've nothing much to add on technique, save that I am unconvinced of the merits of carrying a dedicated 'kellet' as that weight is better carried in chain. OTOH, I can justify carring a BIG strong swivel for circumstances outlined above.

 

[TQA]

Drop anchor upwind or upcurrent at normal scope distance from the desired final position.

Drop back to double normal scope distance and lay second anchor.

Winch in on anchor 1 while letting anchor 2 rode out until back in the desired position.

I never used swivels kellets or riding sails. Yes my rodes did get twisted and sorting it all out was a bit of a faff sometimes.

I had some success in minimising twists by setting the anchors about 20 degrees off the prevailing wind which was easterly as I was in the Bahamas.

I used the Bahamian moor in places like Nassau and Staniel Cay where there were strong currents that reversed with the tides.

 

[NormanS]

Following on from my anchor in a 'V', fork, and as it was raised on the thread, I further wondered about a Bahamian moor.

I've never, ever, used one - so I don't know how to lay one - though I know the theory - and there is a large distance between theory and reality. Norman is a great proponent, and has a specially designed custom made swivel, but I don't recall many claiming to have used one so I wondered how common? When are they used (as they seem a lot of effort) and are there right and wrong ways to lay.

And to dispel any suggestions - there is not an article in the offing - dangerous to write articles or post on threads on topics about which you know so little.

Jonathan

I wouldn't claim to be a great proponent of the method, but for reasons best unexplored, I am obliged to anchor up for a period of four weeks, and go home in the middle of our main summer cruise. I have done this for many years, initially on a trip to and around Shetland, when I had to come home and work. (Remember work?) In latter years I have been leaving my present boat in the Outer Hebrides, where although the weather is not always perfect, there are loads of sheltered (from the sea) corners for secure anchoring.

I choose a place which is well sheltered from sea in any direction, good clean holding in mud, and where hardly anyone else goes.

The place where I will be rigging my Bahamian Moor in a few weeks time, ticks all these boxes, although it is possibly shallower than I would prefer. In very high atmospheric pressure on a Spring ebb, there won't be much under the keel, but as it's soft mud, it wouldn't matter if she touched.

I put a tripping line and anchor buoy on my main anchor, drop it upwind, and fall back about 40 metres or so. I sit in astern at cruising revs for a minute or two, to ensure that the anchor is well in. My second anchor, a Fortress FX23, with 5 metres of heavy chain, and about 40 metres of nylon is then put in the dinghy and taken astern and dropped. It also has a tripping line and buoy. The rest of the nylon remains aboard. I then drive ahead against the nylon for a minute or two to ensure (and assure me) that this anchor is well bedded. The nylon line is then taken forward outside everything.

As Jonathan says, I have a device like an inverted saucer which clamps onto the anchor chain, and on which a large shackle rests. The nylon line is made fast to a ring attached to the shackle, and all that is then lowered away under the level of the keel. The saucer ensures that the two rodes don't get wound together.

(Perhaps Jonathan can oblige with a photo?).

It is important that the lines between the two anchors are not in a tight straight line, otherwise with a wind at right angles the loads on the anchors would be unnecessarily increased, but even if they formed an angle of 120°, the "wiggle" effect on the anchors would be very slight.

I can't see me ever going to the trouble of anchoring like that, just for one or two nights, but for leaving the boat totally unattended for a month, it's a small price to pay. Because we normally have done it on mud, retrieval is a protracted and muddy business. What I usually do is to disconnect the nylon line, buoy it and let it go. I can then attend to the main anchor and chain, and then go and pick up the buoyed line, and attend to it. Thank goodness for a good deckwash pump.

The two marker buoys let me see where the anchors are, in relation to the boat, and if another boat did venture into this place, hopefully they might give an indication that my boat was not just lying to a single anchor.

 

[zoidberg]

There's a lot of 'know-how' in the above.

I'd like to see more detail of the 'inverted saucer and shckle' arrangement.

 

[Neeves]

Thanks Norman,

The explanation defines why not many have responded, its not something you would want to do very often.

We have locations, I believe up in the NE of Australia is one, and certainly in both the NE and NW of Tasmania where we have excessive tidal flows. In the NW tides flow at 6 knots and its the 'start' point of sailing south down Tasmania's west coast (the tides on the west coast are measured in cm those in Bass Strait in metres - so a huge volume of water moves in and out twice a day). There are a number of anchorages which offer shelter from a variety of directions all with sand bottoms that are not subject to the full flow of the tide (and if you move a few NM from the main flow the flow is less). These seem to offer the same conditions as Norman describes - but you would need to be pinned there for a few days to justify the effort.

Slight drift, the NW passage (Schouten Passage) is an eye-opener, it twists and double backs so you pass on motor, the water is flowing at 6knots, the engine pushing you at 6 knots, the water is as flat as glass and huge overfalls (that can be avoided) at the end, Southern Ocean side. Easy to time correctly going south (because the numerous anchorages are close by) - much more difficult to time correctly coming north as there is minimal shelter to stop and its a 70nm passage from the best or decent shelter.

The whole of the NW of Tasmania is subject these tidal flows and we anchored at the entrance to the Swan River at Smithton. Very shallow, 2m and a bar outside. You could not see the seabed for the volume of sand moving. We were not there for long, 2 or 3 days, - but it really polished our, then 8mm, chain. We were on one anchor which tripped and reset at each tide change. A Bahamian moor would have been very sensible - but I simply did not think of it. The moor would have been at 90 degrees to the 35 knots winds from which we were sheltering (and the land is low lying). This suggests laying the moor, as Norman suggests (not at 180 degrees) but at, maybe 120 degrees.

One thing that strikes - you need lots of room (and good, obvious marker buoys)

Jonathan

edit

I'll try to post an image of Norman's swivel, later (he kindly sent it to me, by normal email, some months ago when he mentioned it and I enquired). I don't have good internet access currently, its slow and intermittent. I'm guessing that as its your summer - Norman has the same issues and is enjoying NW Scotland.

close edit.

 

[Neeves]

Another observation

Both 'V' anchoring and the, very, limited replies on Bahamian moor suggest that a Fortress is the preferred option for the 'other' anchor. This also seems the case for in line anchoring, from the work Thinwater has completed and the few comments on in-line anchors. It would be very difficult, or even more complex, to deploy a second anchor if your yacht demands large anchors and your arsenal is all steel - unless you have 2 bow rollers. You could deploy a big steel anchor by hand - but retrieval would need a winch - simply increased complexity (and I'm not sure how you lift a 40kg + anchor over lifelines - halyard??)

If you need big anchors - much of these anchoring options would simply be too difficult to use.

Assuming you value any of these techniques - a decent sized Fortress, or alloy Spade/Excel look like a sensible choice.

Jonathan

 

[KellysEye]

> but have you used a Bahamian moor?

No because I knew a riding sail is better.

 

[Motor_Sailor]

I've used a Bahamian Moor hundreds of times - mainly in the Bahamas but also elsewhere. But the Bahamian Moor should be seen as a quick versatile anchoring technique that can be deployed every evening if needs be without hassle and shouldn't really be confused with a multiple anchor, temporary 'mooring'.

The need to use a BM, as already stated, is to allow a boat to anchor in very narrow, constrictive channels where there is a reversal of the current on each change of tides. Although the range of tides in the Bahamas is relatively small, the extensive sand and coral banks means the tide can sluice through channels at a remarkable rate. TQA has described one way of laying out the anchors, but that only really works if the tide is already running one way, or if the 25kt trade winds are not blowing at a contrary angle to the tide. If you're at slack water, or have a contrary wind, or your boat doesn't have much power power in reverse (or all three), then deploying the second anchor from the dinghy is more straight forward. We originally had a 30lb Danforth but more recently it's been replaced with the ubiquitous Fortress.

The secret for easy second anchor deployment as in a BM or as a kedge, is to have the rode flaked down in a tackle bag. Not only is it simple to deploy but any twists between the rodes in the morning can be sorted by simply passing the bag around the other rode to unwind. We've never suffered from any chafe problems, but do carry and assortment of greasy leather patches.

Care has to be taken when a 'cold front' is forecast in the NW Caribbean. Here often gale force winds can arrive from the NW and then veer through all points until they settle again in the east. If you are in a channel running north - south, you may need a third anchor deployed to the east to take the strain for the hours it howls from that direction. Often the channel is bordered with very shallow banks that dry at LW, so there are times when this anchor can be checked for dragging with binoculars.

I believe having a full strength anchor that can be deployed from the dinghy is an essential part of any serious cruising boat. We have seen a Bowman 57 have it rudder smashed and a Hood 55 lost altogether as neither could deploy anything from their anchoring arsenal from the dinghy. Both had superb double bow rollers and all chain rodes, but a big Fortress and 100m of nylon would have saved them both.

 

[Neeves]

My understanding

2 situations described.

One where the owners, or crew, are on the yacht and twists between rodes can be managed on a daily basis.

Secondly where the yachts is to be left unattended for a long period - and then a swivel is essential.

Jonathan

 

[NormanS]

> but have you used a Bahamian moor?

No because I knew a riding sail is better.

Now I be missing something here, but to my mind a Bahamian Moor and a Riding Sail are two totally separate animals. I know, because I use both.

A Bahamian Moor achieves two main things. It greatly reduces the boat's swinging circle, and it ensures that the direction of pull on the anchors is reasonably constant.

A Riding Sail helps to keep the anchored boat's head to the wind, by greatly reducing yawing.

Since these are completely separate objectives, I don't see how one is "better".

 

[Neeves]

> but have you used a Bahamian moor?

No because I knew a riding sail is better.

Well, at least you are honest even if your riding sail will not solve the issues for which the Bahamian moor was designed.

Too many denigrate a product or a technique and try to appear as experts - without ever having tried the product they denigrate.

 

[TQA]

Sure laying the second anchor from a dink is an option, but if like me the second anchor is a 45lb CQR on 200 ft of 3/8th chain that is a whole lot of heavy handling.

I am able to lay the first anchor drop back then get the bow round and keep it round by using a good bursts of power as I worked my way round to the second anchor launch point. It is a while since I did this but it is doable even with out a bow thruster in 15 knots of wind and laying the Bahamian moor at 90 degrees to the wind. Needs must when the current drives.

 

[NormanS]

Sure laying the second anchor from a dink is an option, but if like me the second anchor is a 45lb CQR on 200 ft of 3/8th chain that is a whole lot of heavy handling.

I am able to lay the first anchor drop back then get the bow round and keep it round by using a good bursts of power as I worked my way round to the second anchor launch point. It is a while since I did this but it is doable even with out a bow thruster in 15 knots of wind and laying the Bahamian moor at 90 degrees to the wind. Needs must when the current drives.

My previous boat had two all chain rodes, one of 16mm, and one of 18mm. Both main anchors were 140lbs. You may rest assured, that when I rigged a BM, I didn't normally do it with the dinghy!

Having a much more modest boat now, (10mm chain, 20kg Bruce, and nylon line, FX23 Fortress), life is sooooo much easier.

 

[Salty John]

As TQA says in both his posts. Used many times in the Bahamas. As for rigging one for an extended stay, beyond my experience but I know a swivel would be essential or the rodes would be hopelessly twisted after a few days.

 

[prv]

As Jonathan says, I have a device like an inverted saucer which clamps onto the anchor chain, and on which a large shackle rests. The nylon line is made fast to a ring attached to the shackle, and all that is then lowered away under the level of the keel. The saucer ensures that the two rodes don't get wound together.

One thing that remains unclear to me is what happens to the rest of the kedge warp (I’m assuming it’s more than 40m long in total). After making fast to the shackle, does it lead on board in a slack bight that’s easy to untwist later, or do you make a coil and hitch it to the working part of the line so it hangs in the water clear of the chain? Or something else I haven’t thought of?

Pete

 

[NormanS]

One thing that remains unclear to me is what happens to the rest of the kedge warp (I’m assuming it’s more than 40m long in total). After making fast to the shackle, does it lead on board in a slack bight that’s easy to untwist later, or do you make a coil and hitch it to the working part of the line so it hangs in the water clear of the chain? Or something else I haven’t thought of?

Pete

You are quite correct to wonder. The warp is about 64m, so having laid out about 40 metres, and then taken the rest forward, outside all on an 11m boat, there is still some left over. However, remember that you don't want a straight line between the two anchors, or a side wind will put excessive load on the system, so really there is not a lot of extra line. After making it fast to the shackle, I just take any extra back along the line, and secure it with sticky tape. I don't think bringing any extra line back aboard would be a good idea.

 

[Neeves]

I now wonder when a Bahamian moor, in wind at 90 degrees to the opposing tidal flows, becomes a fork if you are not setting at 180 degrees for the tide but reducing the angle to accomodate wind.

I cannot try it, as I don't know anywhere within 100's of nm with such conditions (severe opposing tides are not that common) but I do like the idea of 'roughly' setting at 180 degrees and a third anchor, at 90 degrees, to accomodate the wind - assuming the wind is both strong and forecast to come from a fairly constant direction.

We only carry anchors that can each be primaries - so our anchors are all of the same size, potential hold. They are all alloy so easy to deploy from a dinghy. But as I mentioned from the outset I've never set a Bahamian Moor - so don't know what I'm talking about.

If you are setting one leg of the BM by hand from a dinghy its really not much excess to deploy a second - and what else are you doing in the middle of no-where - except making yourself snug.

I can confirm that sitting on one anchor with strongly opposing tides (at 180 degrees) and winds, 35knots, at 90 degrees - is not the most relaxing way to anchor. Though, summing up after the event , the anchor was totally reliable - you don't know that until afterwards - and it might be different next time - again, you don't know.

Jonathan