Bad sanding job
- Thread starter Willbe84
- Start date
coliholic
Well-Known Member
Just keep sanding with progresively finer grades of sandpaper. Start with 80 then 120 then 400 wet and dry. Once you've got it all nice and smooth then fill in the digs and dents with a filler and again sand with 120 then 400. 400 is smooth enough for any paint job, if you go finer, the paint won't adhere properly.
it's a lot of work but any paint job's only as good as the prep.
it's a lot of work but any paint job's only as good as the prep.
Willbe84
Member
oh ...should have censored that! Never used them, so can't vouch
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
I am not sure what you are asking now? Our topside gel-coat was completely removed and replaced with new Gel so the answer to your original question is that anything is rescuable with enough time and effort.
maxcampbell
Well-Known Member
That's not your van in the background is it?
landlockedpirate
Well-Known Member
That will polish out with a bit of T-Cut 
Stork_III
Well-Known Member
This thread will give you some good advice for action. http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?349781-Repainting-an-old-fiberglass-32-foot-boat&highlight=
Avocet
Well-Known Member
Any chance of some close-up photos? If it's as bad as I think it might be, you may as well fill it BEFORE you do any fine sanding. The filler will stick better to a 40-grit abraded surface. How deep are the worst hollows? It will be one hell of a lot of work to get that faired again properly! Oldsaltoz might have some useful advice, but be prepared for a lot of backbreaking work!
oldsaltoz
Well-Known Member
You can cover the damaged gel coat with flow coat (gel coat with wax added) then sand and polish to look like new again.
Probably less work that sanding, bogging, fairing and ending with a paint job.
Good luck and fair winds.
Probably less work that sanding, bogging, fairing and ending with a paint job.
Good luck and fair winds.
yoda
Well-Known Member
It's very difficult to see exactly what you have done and probably more importantly what was there before you started. If what you have sanded off is paint and not gel coat then the process to be followed will be different than if you have been sanding the gel coat. When you say you have dug into the gelcoat do you mean that or have you dug into the GRP lay-up? looking at the pattern in the photo I am starting to think you have a painted hull but you will need to come back with some more detail.
Yoda
ProDave
Well-Known Member
I thought that too.
First time around someone else messed up and then did a runner.
Now YOU have messed up?
Which is it?
William_H
Well-Known Member
The hull needs to be faired to fill the gouges. Use an epoxy with microballoons or similar then sand down. Assuming it is the old gel coat you are sanding and not a one pack paint then you can proceed to paint it with a polyurethane 2 pack or a one pack pant with under coat. Just follow the instructions. if there are traces of old paint then these need to be cleaned off or use a one pack paint.
Do not use polyester either as a filler or gel coat/flow coat. Polyester is what the boat was made of. However polyester sticks best to its self when the substrate is not properly cured. After a few days (let alone years) the original polyester becomes very inert. Polyester then will not stick as well. (although often used as it does stick to a degree) Epoxy or polyurethane stick far better. Epoxy is not suitable for UV exposure but polyurethane paint is good for final finish. good luck olewill
Do not use polyester either as a filler or gel coat/flow coat. Polyester is what the boat was made of. However polyester sticks best to its self when the substrate is not properly cured. After a few days (let alone years) the original polyester becomes very inert. Polyester then will not stick as well. (although often used as it does stick to a degree) Epoxy or polyurethane stick far better. Epoxy is not suitable for UV exposure but polyurethane paint is good for final finish. good luck olewill