Baby Blake sea toilet

Johnny5

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I'm in the middle of stripping down a old baby Blake sea toilet I have a new seal set in preparation for the rebuild
Firstly I have needed to cut most of the bolts to enable me to remove them and was thinking to replace them with stainless steel ones rather than brass would this cause any issues ?
Has anyone had any experience of cleaning up all the brassware I was just going to take a wire brush in a drill to it then finish with wire wool as I would like to retain the polished brass look but is there a easy way to bring it back up ?
Also when I reassemble everything should I use anything on the gaskets or just put them on dry ?
Any tips would be helpful please
 
I'm in the middle of stripping down a old baby Blake sea toilet I have a new seal set in preparation for the rebuild
Firstly I have needed to cut most of the bolts to enable me to remove them and was thinking to replace them with stainless steel ones rather than brass would this cause any issues ?
Has anyone had any experience of cleaning up all the brassware I was just going to take a wire brush in a drill to it then finish with wire wool as I would like to retain the polished brass look but is there a easy way to bring it back up ?
Also when I reassemble everything should I use anything on the gaskets or just put them on dry ?
Any tips would be helpful please

No inf in the owners manual ? I noticed jointing compound is mentioned on some threaded parts and silicone sealant on the pan joint

http://www.belship.nl/belship/manuals/Blakes/Baby_Blakes_Toilet.pdf
 
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I'm in the middle of stripping down a old baby Blake sea toilet I have a new seal set in preparation for the rebuild
Firstly I have needed to cut most of the bolts to enable me to remove them and was thinking to replace them with stainless steel ones rather than brass would this cause any issues ?
Has anyone had any experience of cleaning up all the brassware I was just going to take a wire brush in a drill to it then finish with wire wool as I would like to retain the polished brass look but is there a easy way to bring it back up ?
Also when I reassemble everything should I use anything on the gaskets or just put them on dry ?
Any tips would be helpful please

If it is older than 1992, it might be a good idea to study page 4 of the manual to find out which version you have and whether you can easily upgrade to the "new" double seal pump tops (maybe by just getting new gland nuts).
 
Thanks for all your replies
I have a copy of the instructions that came with the new seal kit but it is handy to have a digital copy so I can zoom in on the exploded views
Well it's now completely stripped, I mounted a wire brush on my bench grinder cleaned off all the rubbish and then gave it a good polish on a polishing mop and it Came up a treat
I think I have the old pre-1992 model but I did take out a couple of rings from the discharge valve and the flush pump so mabe the modification has already been done but I can't be 100% sure is there any way to tell (the rubber rings are in the bin now)
And will replacing the brass mounting bolts that I needed to cut off with stainless steel ones be ok
Thanks again for your input
 
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I think I have the old pre-1992 model but I did take out a couple of rings from the discharge valve and the flush pump so mabe the modification has already been done but I can't be 100% sure is there any way to tell (the rubber rings are in the bin now)
And will replacing the brass mounting bolts that I needed to cut off with stainless steel ones be ok
Thanks again for your input

The modern lips seals sit in a groove inside the gland nuts and are pretty difficult to get out for replacement (you must cut them). The discarded rubber rings are probably something else. Look at page 7 and 10 (discharge and flushing pump respectively) to determine what generation your toilet is. Then refer to page 4 regarding the options.
I can not imagine that replacing with stainless bolts would be a problem. I think most/all threads and hole sizes are imperial, though.
 
Im in the process of doing my own baby blake up. Im told its from around mid 1930 allegedly fitted to the boat from new.
Its hard work! I gather that as the factory painted and so the castings were never very carefully finished. There are casting marks and pits and dimples .I'm going through the dilema how far to go, the metal is already quite thin and a proper mirror polish will require removal of too much metal.
I'm using a grit blaster for the old paint and verdigris and a black and decker power file to remove the casting lines. Finally no getting away from emery cloth and aching fingers
 
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