Avon dinghy A7 valves

Kukri

Kukri

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I have been trying to shift the big grey plastic nut in order to replace the innards.

Has anyone ever managed to do this, and do I need to spend £120 on the wrench in order to replace the £5.90 valve stem and diaphragm?

(Drat! This should have been in the PBO forum. Sorry!)
 
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Minn said:
I have been trying to shift the big grey plastic nut in order to replace the innards.

Has anyone ever managed to do this, and do I need to spend £120 on the wrench in order to replace the £5.90 valve stem and diaphragm?

(Drat! This should have been in the PBO forum. Sorry!)
Click to expand...

No You should be able to find them at least £100 cheaper, but you could make one from ply.

BTW this looks like a decent video showing how to replace the guts of the valve

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_ZIt4VvWYs
 
VicS said:
No You should be able to find them at least £100 cheaper, but you could make one from ply.

BTW this looks like a decent video showing how to replace the guts of the valve

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_ZIt4VvWYs
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I've watched that video a few times. He's somehow using an A6 /B7 spanner (seen clearly at 2.31 on the video) on a purported A7 valve. I have one, and mine most certainly doesnt fit an A7 valve! :) Hence my mystification
 
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Minn said:
Thanks.

I've watched that video a few times. He's somehow using an A6 /B7 spanner (seen clearly at 2.31 on the video) on a purported A7 valve. I have one, and mine most certainly doesnt fit an A7 valve! :) Hence my mystification
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Just use the right wrench for your valves, make one or do as Ribstore suggest; "For A7 - use a socket/spanner or a large pair of grips (use a cloth to cover the jaws of the grips to prevent damage to the plastic valve)" They dont seem to offer a wrench for A7 valvea but this one apparently fits A7, A6, and B7 valves
valve-tools_c.jpg
 
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I had this problem...I clamped the fabric in a vice as close to the valve as possible, and used a Stilson wrench with a extension bar. The material is much stronger than one would think. No damage done.
 
Minn said:
I have been trying to shift the big grey plastic nut in order to replace the innards.)
Click to expand...

Once you get that nut off, I would interested in how you then proceed because I couldn't get the body of the valve out of the hole for love nor money. I found some amber flat ring stuff broken up inside the seat which may or may not be part of the valve floating around in the seat. I have emptied this out but a slow leak over an hour remains.

The plan was the replace the whole valve but may have to end up taking it apart inside to replace the bits.
 
Pete7 said:
Once you get that nut off, I would interested in how you then proceed because I couldn't get the body of the valve out of the hole for love nor money. I found some amber flat ring stuff broken up inside the seat which may or may not be part of the valve floating around in the seat. I have emptied this out but a slow leak over an hour remains.

The plan was the replace the whole valve but may have to end up taking it apart inside to replace the bits.
Click to expand...

I had planned to change my valves but found the same problem. I have since rebuilt the faulty ones with the, very cheap, parts. I remember thinking it would good practice for a gynecologist!
I saw a video on youtube about changing the valves and you have to replace the circular patch with the valve. Far more trouble than changing a few bits.
Allan
 
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Pete7 said:
Once you get that nut off, I would interested in how you then proceed because I couldn't get the body of the valve out of the hole for love nor money. I found some amber flat ring stuff broken up inside the seat which may or may not be part of the valve floating around in the seat. I have emptied this out but a slow leak over an hour remains.

The plan was the replace the whole valve but may have to end up taking it apart inside to replace the bits.
Click to expand...

Allan said:
I had planned to change my valves but found the same problem. I have since rebuilt the faulty ones with the, very cheap, parts. I remember thinking it would good practice for a gynecologist!
I saw a video on youtube about changing the valves and you have to replace the circular patch with the valve. Far more trouble than changing a few bits.
Allan
Click to expand...

The video link in #2 shows you how to replace the valve internals .

To get the valve out in order to replace the whole thing you have to make two small cuts in the fabric and fit a patch as part of the repair as you say

This video shows the procedure

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkshJaBhNR4
 
I just changed the mushroom valve and spring part, with (i think) OEM parts, several years ago, fine since. Was not happy about cutting/patching
 
I have a similar problem. The large gray nut comes off easily but the valve itself will not separate from its housing so I cannot turn it around to replace the missing diaphragm. I suppose the valve was glued to the housing. But now reading this thread I am not sure if I have to cut the fabric in order to remove the valve from the housing. According to leafield images, the A7 housing should be separate from the valve. the gray-white disk in this image is the part I cannot separate. Any ideas? Thanks
 

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yanay said:
I have a similar problem. The large gray nut comes off easily but the valve itself will not separate from its housing so I cannot turn it around to replace the missing diaphragm. I suppose the valve was glued to the housing. But now reading this thread I am not sure if I have to cut the fabric in order to remove the valve from the housing. According to leafield images, the A7 housing should be separate from the valve. the gray-white disk in this image is the part I cannot separate. Any ideas? Thanks
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As you can see from post 13, I did mine a few years ago. They are still fine after a great deal of use. I would try, carefully, going in-between the docs and the material with a thin blade, then try twisting the disc. From memory, there may be a white sealing washer somewhere, possiblity under the disc. There shouldn't be any glue or sealer on any part of the valve but it depends on what has happened in the past. The material is really robust.
Allan
 
I tried to do the valves myself and failed. So I had all the valves in my Avon renewed by a chap in Falmouth for a very reasonable price. If anyone wants his details I will try and find them.
 
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