Autopilots on small power cruisers?

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Having been running displacment and semi-d mobos for about 35 years, I am now downgrading to a small power cruiser. My previus boats all had integrated nav systems with the pilot driven by the plotter in track control which is great at 8 to 10 knots, but is this suitable at 25 knots, obviously there is a need for greater vigilance and leaving the helm unattended for long periods is not a good idea so I wondered what is the general rule for long distance cruising (say 100 miles per day) at relatively high speed (for me that is!).
 
In my opinion you dont need or want an auto pilot on a faster boat.
It will be costing you £50 - £75 an hour to play, do you really want to put it on auto pilot , its a bit like handing the wheel over to a stranger that you are paying for .

Having said that it was already fitted to my boat and I do use it occasionally.......

stick it on auto while I change/check/plot a new course but I could do without it.

100nm goes quickly @ 25 knots, you arent going to get bored and you will not want to leave the wheel, as to your question 'do they work' then yes, on setting 3 its a bit hairy but setting two is more lethargic and gives a very comfortable ride.
 
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It precisely for long distances in a straight line at 25kts that I found an autopilot most useful. The wheel is not handed over, it is attended all the time, but the boat holds its course better and four hours (or more) in a straight line can get boring unless you can hand over the mundane bit to a machine.
 
thefatlady said:
It precisely for long distances in a straight line at 25kts that I found an autopilot most useful. The wheel is not handed over, it is attended all the time, but the boat holds its course better and four hours (or more) in a straight line can get boring unless you can hand over the mundane bit to a machine.
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Yes agreed, we use the our AP in two main ways. One when we want to take a break and have some refreshments on the move and need to leave the helm (always keeping an eye out) but, be able to move about freely whilst maintaining a bearing) this is always at say 7-10k only. The other is on longer legs in open water, where the AP keeps a better, smoother more accurate line but the helm is attended constantly. But, as has been said, we could live without it I guess.
 
Mine not working at mo, think Volvo bent my cable when doing bellows, had to drive the last 3 trips and really miss it. Is coming out water in 2 weeks will replace it then.
 
I concur with your view that moving from am 8kts to a 25kts for long(ish) distance cruising is actually a downgrade, and it's not just a matter of size.
That said, don't worry, the a/p works even better at planing than at displacement speed.
A higher attention is required, but as you also said, that's pretty obvious.
It would be a totally different matter if you were talking of really fast mobos, where an a/p would be as useful as a cruise control on a rally car.
 
Imagine if you were half way through a 100 mile voyage in open water, single handed and became overwhelmed with sea-sickness due to say, a severe change in weather, head in bilge space doing repair work, a bad curry from the night before, a random virus from a strange lady in the bar, etc.

Everything is still running fine except you, your head and body is horizontal with the deck, because that is where you feel the best, there is no way the boat is going to do 25 knots to get you to the next destination with you in a vertical position.

The best thing to do is to hit 'auto' adjust the throttle to 7 knots and let this fine piece of technology do all the work.
 
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AndieMac said:
Imagine if you were half way through a 100 mile voyage in open water, single handed and became overwhelmed with sea-sickness due to say, a severe change in weather, head in bilge space doing repair work, a bad curry from the night before, a random virus from a strange lady in the bar, etc.
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Geez AM, nothing else?
If you throw in also a supertanker heading towards you in thick fog at 20 odd knots, you might as well recommend just a prayer, rather than an a/p... :D
 
There are many trips when I never actually touch the wheel. I have direct access to the sea and use the throttles to manoeuvre in/out of the marina and then hit the Auto button.
 
I have a single engined 26' sports fisher capable of 30knots plus (cruise at 20/22knots when weather allowes) and use the auto pilot all the time. I have the Raymarine X5 Smart pilot. No need for hydraulics and it works very well with all the usual functions that are available with hyd units.

Interestingly the only time I don't like the AP is when in rough weather. The AP can't see the waves and tends to give a harder ride than can be achieved steered manually

This is the first autopilot I have owned and would now not be without one.

Martin
 
This is an interesting thread.

I have a 25 foot sportsboat and didn't think autopilot would be suitable for this size of boat.

Would it be expensive to fit on a boat with a volvo engine/leg?
 
Not sure what make of cable steering I have but its linked to a Bravo 1 out drive. If your thinking of using the smart pilot it matters not what make of steering you have as the only mechanical parts touched is the wheel. The AP drive unit goes behind the wheel. The unit only make about 30mm difference to the position of the wheel ie nearer the helmsman. Even the adjustable wheel rake still works with no problem.

Martin
 
maverickofpoole said:
I have a single engined 26' sports fisher capable of 30knots plus (cruise at 20/22knots when weather allowes) and use the auto pilot all the time. I have the Raymarine X5 Smart pilot. No need for hydraulics and it works very well with all the usual functions that are available with hyd units.

Interestingly the only time I don't like the AP is when in rough weather. The AP can't see the waves and tends to give a harder ride than can be achieved steered manually

This is the first autopilot I have owned and would now not be without one.

Martin
Click to expand...

I was talking to a recreational fisherman mate recently who has had the same version sold over here called the Sport Pilot, in a 23' boat with cable steering.
He is a great troller of lures, both fresh and salt water, and as he often single hands, couldn't do it without the pilot.
He did have problems initially setting up the fluxgate compass, more specifically a suitable location, which ended up being in the anchor locker attached to the under side of the bow cleat.
 
According to raymarine the fluxgate needs to go as near to the centre of the boat and as low down as possible to minimise pitch and yawl but is not crucial. Mine is in a cubby hole just above the bilge midships and works fine. I must admit that I did the mechanical fixing (not a lot) but left the electrical bits and interfacing to mr sparks :)

Martin
 
Martin

Apparently there was a lot of advice exchanging between owner, chandler and manufacturer, even another fluxgate compass was included.
Anyway he has been a happy product user for more than 6 years now and said if he was setting up another boat he wouldn't hesitate to include the pilot.
 
Ah he has the old version sport pilot with the little handle/stick on the side. These were discontinued with the new version being trialed about 4 years ago. The latest version coming to market about 2 years ago. The latest version is controlled via a control head unit the same as hyd units have (no stick to break) with a course computer. They can also be operated from your plotter. At the end of the day not an awful lot different and both do the same job

Martin
 
Having looked at all the feedback it seems that autopilots on fast boats are used much the same as on my semi-d. I've now got to decide on the type of steering to use that will suit the pilot. It looks as though all I will need is a good quality cable steering that allows feedback and I can then use the latest Raymarine universal drive for the autopilot as this is installed at the drive rather than at the wheel. The only difference I will notice in use is that the wheel will turn when the drive is operating. Something I will likely soon get used to. Does this seem like the best solution for an O/D with power steering or is there a better solution?
 
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