Autohelm 2000

H4B

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I have an autohelm 2000 could be 15+ years old, came with the boat. I have only been able to get it to work once.. I was worried about it getting enough volts ,so rewired the socket. It works OK when alongside and on the bench ie I turn the control unit (compass within) and the ram moves the right way. When I go to sea and connect it up the boat just waunders off, the ram keeps opening or closes and I end up completely off course Is this an electrical supply problem or a fault with the pilot . Are 2000 generally worth repairing is it cost effective? Any ideas gratefully recieived
 

cliff

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Sounds like the fluxgate compass could be acting up.
Is there anything metal near the compass? Even an aluminium beer tin can throw the compass off. (past experience when SHMO dumped the rubbish bag in the cockpit near the compass)

Also reduce the rudder sensitivity and try again. It could be the sensitivity is set too high and you suffer from "oversteer". Once you pass a certain point (30° off course???) the autohelm cannot correct and goes "tits-up" and the off course alarm sounds.

Check also that the unit is set for the correct side. Normally they are fitted to the starboard side coaming / seat and the unit needs to know whether push or pull to correct course.

Finally do ensure all electrical connections are clean and tight.
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MacW

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All the problems I ever had with Autohelms were caused by damp/wet/condensation.they don`t seem to make them watertight.symptoms along the lines of ok one minute then suddenly veering off course, or ok for hours then suddenly taking into its tiny mind that it wants to go somewhere else,putting the helm over and settling down onto a new course! Opening it up and letting it dry out in the Sun (capital S !), cured the problems just like magic.Hope this helps.
 

Sans Bateau

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Cliff, I think you are right, the old AH 1000 and 2000 are very robust. H4B, do you have an instruction book? If you don't you should be able to get one from Raymarine. If te unit is working, it is most likley to just ned setting up properly
 

cliff

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[ QUOTE ]
Cliff, I think you are right, the old AH 1000 and 2000 are very robust. H4B, do you have an instruction book? If you don't you should be able to get one from Raymarine. If te unit is working, it is most likley to just ned setting up properly

[/ QUOTE ]I still have one and no problems except its dislike for beer or "coke" tins near the compass.

The more I think about it the more I lean towards the rudder sensitivity being too high.

Ah 2000 manual here
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QuietFlight

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I run an ST2000 on my Jaguar 27 and its a delight to use and maintain. Very reliable. I did however accidentaly stomp on it the other week while out, breaking the ram unit. I can't recommend Raymarine's service centre highly enough. Informed, quick with heads up on cost of repair and very fast turnaround. I think tiller pilots are just one of thoses things that we forget about, usually very reliable never usually give any problems yet on occasion could do with a service from the manufacturer? You might be surprised at how little it can cost to get it thourghly checked out and re-calibrated by the experts. At least you can then confirm that the unit is not at fault and look at either set-up of unit or other issues on the boat.
 

H4B

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Thanks everyone. Metal objects to compass .How near is near.??? The danforth kedge lies in the cock pit locker about a meter away. ??

During sea trials I have always had rudder sensitivity set to O. I have a manual thanks and yes the pilot is set for the correct side.

When I switch to auto every thing is fine for a minute and then a rudder correction is applied, but the ram then keeps opening or closing a click at a time.

I am also renewng the main disribution panel .Iam hoping the old 'Heath Robinson' arrangement may have been to blame.
 

oldharry

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This could be a symptom of a 'dirty'electrical supply: either there is a lot of 'noise'from the alternator, or something like the VHF, or Echo sounder is interfering with it. If it works OK on the bench at home then the problem is more than likely in the boat. Try turning everything else off. Bad contacts may also make it erratic.

One way to check would be to get a separate 12 volt battery running the unit independently (2 of the big square 6 volt lantern batteries will keep it going for long enough to be sure).
 

cliff

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[ QUOTE ]
Thanks everyone. Metal objects to compass .How near is near.??? The danforth kedge lies in the cock pit locker about a meter away. ??

During sea trials I have always had rudder sensitivity set to O. I have a manual thanks and yes the pilot is set for the correct side.

When I switch to auto every thing is fine for a minute and then a rudder correction is applied, but the ram then keeps opening or closing a click at a time.

I am also renewng the main disribution panel .Iam hoping the old 'Heath Robinson' arrangement may have been to blame.

[/ QUOTE ]

Near in the case of a beer can is around 6~8".

"During sea trials I have always had rudder sensitivity set to O. I have a manual thanks and yes the pilot is set for the correct side."

Oh dear... May i suggest you actually READ the Manual - page 21 gives the CORRECT rudder sensitivity setting for commencing sea trials and it is NOT "O" as you have stated you always set yours.

If I set my auto helm to "O" it does silly things as it is too insensitive - slow to react. Increase the sensitivity a couple of points.

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starboard

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Had a similar problem with mine....almost certainally damp on the circuit board and maybe a build up of salt that will cause problems on the board. Take off cover easy enough and give PCB a spray with electrical cleaner such as you can get at Maplin's used for cleaning flux on circuit boards. Then give the unit a good dry, leave in your airing cuoboard etc.

Another problem if works ok on bench is if the supply cable on boat is becoming corroded and losing volts through this as very volt sensative. Would not suspect fluxgate as it works ok on bench when you swing it.

Good luck

Paul.
 

cliff

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[ QUOTE ]
Would not suspect fluxgate as it works ok on bench when you swing it.

Good luck

Paul.

[/ QUOTE ]I've only one thing to say to you Paul....."beercans"
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starboard

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Thanks Cliff, you can sling one over my direction next time your down....aim for F14 and I will catch it....thats if Simon has not quaffed them all!!!!
 

cliff

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[ QUOTE ]
Thanks Cliff, you can sling one over my direction next time your down....aim for F14 and I will catch it....thats if Simon has not quaffed them all!!!!

[/ QUOTE ]No chance - he does not know all the hiding places. Might be down tomorrow - I,ll have a look at F14
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TonyMS

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I have an ST2000+ that works fine in light winds/calm seas, but loses the plot in F4/5 or significant swell. Boat only weighs 2 tons, and is quite well balanced, so I'm at a loss what to do next.

Have had the machine checked out by raymarine agents, and they say it's fine. Have still to double check the supply, but I think it's good
 
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There are changes you can make to the response of the ST2000+ In particular you can adjust the rudder damping and the rudder gain. See the handbook online at ST2000+ manual It sounds as though your rudder gain is too high for your yacht. Try reducing the rudder gain from 5 to 2 and see what happens. If that is an improvement, try 1, 3, and 4. Don't alter more than one variable at a time or you will never get it right and always keep a detailed record in your log of exactly what you have done. The back of an envelope is not a good place to record this /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I don't think that the problem is rudder damping but read the manual and try that if you don't win by adjusting the gain.
 
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