Attaching webbing jackstays

I

Inselaffe

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Hi,

How should I attach these?

I already have suitable mounting points, but should I get loops stitched into the webbing ends and then use rope lanyards to attach them, or can I just tie knots in the webbing as I would with rope, avoiding the need for rope lanyards and stitching.

Also, is it ok to use suitably sized caribinas (snap-hooks?, or whatever they are called) so that I can easily remove them when not using the boat so reducing UV degredation?
 
I just tie the ends of one continuous length of webbing to the stern cleats with the length led up the side decks through my central bow cleat. Simple and cheap, and easy to untie but in practice I never do as the setup costs so little I don't mind changing it every couple of seasons.
 
I have always sewn loops into each end and then used ss shackles between the loops and the fixing points. Sometime just looped round and shackled back on the webbing. It makes it easier to take them off - which I do when ever I lay the boat up so that the sun/weather does not get to them when not in imminent use.

Michael
 
We also have loops sewn both ends.

In our case we lasso the foward fixing point with the loop of one end (in our case being the base of the aft tube of the pulpit which is made strong enuff for doing so) and a shackle through the loop at the other end to the aft fixing point.

Only a few moments job to install them, or to remove them to keep them out of the sun.

John
 
Any sailmaker will sell you the right stuff plus sew the loops in properly if wanted.

If purchasing elsewhere it should be minimum 20kN breaking strain and is usuallly 25 mm polyester tubular webbing with a telltale thread running through it on one side.

John
 
Mine attach by a sewn loop one end to a central deck eye at the bow.

Then port and starboard straps lead back to a securing point(another deck eye) each side of the aftermost point of the cockpit coaming.

At the aft end each strap is bare ended and feeds through a patent design stainless clip which is in two semi-circular halves with an integral belt type adjuster so you can get the tension right. The two semi-circles lay over one another to form a complete flat circle and one just prises them apart to push them over the deck eye or stanchion, when the tension is adjusted they cannot part themselves but can be easily removed at the end of the season.

I expect this explanation is difficult to follow and I can't recall the maker's name but if you are interested I can do some research.

Just PM me if you want more input
 
I'd be interested to hear about the clips. My webbing has loops sewn in but is too long. I guess I could always get them shortened though.
 
[ QUOTE ]
My webbing has loops sewn in but is too long. I guess I could always get them shortened though.

[/ QUOTE ]

The webbing NEEDS to be loose NOT tight against your deck, The forces involved when you ( hopefully not ) fallover the side are incredible and the longer the webbing is the better it will hold. If they are too short they will exert so much force on the fittings something will give in..... Some time ago there was an article written in PBO about the length of jack stays and the effect on the fittings at different lenghts..... It made very interesting reading, and supprised quite a few people.
Paul
 
We have sewn loops at each end with SS shackles at the bow on a deck fitting and SS shackles at the stern looped through with multiple turns of lanyard. This allows for adjustment. Once set and tensioned, the webbing can be quickly removed by undoing the shackles.
 
Yes, I read the same, something about the angle of pull. Also I always wonder when I see jackstays along a side deck - they won't stop the user falling overboard, just stop them floating away. After having been shown by someone else, ours run just off the centre line of the boat, that way I proberly won't fall overboard. The issue becomes a life saver if you sail single handed, there is no way to get back on board if you are in the ogin but strapped to the deck.
 
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