Attach drain hose to smooth nozzle on sink outlet

[Boathook]

Could try this Fernox LS-X Leak Sealer 50ml
Also rather than a clip round the pipe what about some wire twisted tight? All a temporary measure until the proper fitting is obtained.

 

[Ammonite]

Proper solution - buy a new one, they cost a few quid
In the meantime build up the tapered section into a parallel one with ptfe or self amalgamating tape. Refit pipe and jubilee and you will probably never get round to replacing it because it won't leak

 

[johnalison]

If it were me I would heat it and mould it to form a lip To retain the clipped section. This advice is given not with the intention of being helpful but just as an illustration of my engineering ineptitude.

 

[MattS]

When I had a Moody 28 I had exactly the same problem! I ended up getting a new drain fitting from a caravan shop - not an exact match but worked.

Edit - And I fitted a new hose. I had to do that as I repositioned the water tank more forward to clear the little locker, but that is another story!

Very interesting to hear you had the same problem with the M28 - I guess this was an original fitting then!

Out of interest, how did you replace the drain hose @ithet? I actually need to do this as it's also about 1" too short and starting to split. I can't work out how to get it through behind the cupboards without taking the galley apart...

 

[MattS]

Could try this Fernox LS-X Leak Sealer 50ml
Also rather than a clip round the pipe what about some wire twisted tight? All a temporary measure until the proper fitting is obtained.

I actually did try that stuff! I couldn't get the tube to hold steady on the tapered nozzle for long enough for it to set and hold!

 

[MattS]

Proper solution - buy a new one, they cost a few quid
In the meantime build up the tapered section into a parallel one with ptfe or self amalgamating tape. Refit pipe and jubilee and you will probably never get round to replacing it because it won't leak

Did have a go at doing this with PTFE tape - couldn't get it to grip well enough (I think because the actual tapered pipe plastic is thinner at the end, so when you start applying pressure from the jubilee clip it starts collapsing in...)

 

[Ammonite]

I'm surprised to hear that. You need to wind the tape on tightly and not overtighten the jubilee. If it doesn't work, give up and buy a new one!

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

Could try this Fernox LS-X Leak Sealer 50ml
Also rather than a clip round the pipe what about some wire twisted tight? All a temporary measure until the proper fitting is obtained.

The compression will force the hose down the taper, in the same way that the hose clip does.

 

[PCUK]

You could easily build it up parallel using mat and resin.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

If it were me I would heat it and mould it to form a lip To retain the clipped section. This advice is given not with the intention of being helpful but just as an illustration of my engineering ineptitude.

You beat me to it, my suggestion was to use a flame to heat the end and then rotate a screwdriver in it to "bell" it out.

 

[OBB]

I actually did try that stuff! I couldn't get the tube to hold steady on the tapered nozzle for long enough for it to set and hold!

Not surprised as LSX does not set and needs compression fitting.

 

[pvb]

Not surprised as LSX does not set and needs compression fitting.

It does set - it's basically silicone sealant in a convenient little tube.

 

[OBB]

It does set - it's basically silicone sealant in a convenient little tube.

Forgive me but as a plumber I guess I use it more than you, it doesn`t fully set hard like other silicones, it remains in a flexiable state.

 

[Boathook]

Forgive me but as a plumber I guess I use it more than you, it doesn`t fully set hard like other silicones, it remains in a flexiable state.

I prefer silicone that remains flexible once set, especially on a boat. 'Repairs' seem to last much longer!

 

[Ink]

There's a worrying level of bodging being suggested in this thread! For a tenner, the OP can buy a new waste fitting with a barbed connection for his 1" hose. Fit and forget!

... And until a replacement part can be obtained, surely asking on a "Practical Boat Owner" website would generate some 'practical' replies, or"bodges" as they are often known.

Ink

 

[BobnLesley]

One of ours had a similar slightly tapered fitting. My resolution was to fit a length of undersized 'soft' hose - I think it was either coolant or fuel hose - the end of which I sat in boiling water for well over a minute, giving it sufficient flexibility to stretch over the whole fitting and clamp tightly along the whole length once cooled; I put a jubilee clip on too, but I doubt if it did much, as on the couple of occasions I subsequently disconnected the joint it needed to be cut off and the pipe end reheated to reinstall.

 

[ithet]

Very interesting to hear you had the same problem with the M28 - I guess this was an original fitting then!

Out of interest, how did you replace the drain hose @ithet? I actually need to do this as it's also about 1" too short and starting to split. I can't work out how to get it through behind the cupboards without taking the galley apart...

Now you have got me thinking, although I was referring to the water supply hose in my confusion, I do remember that I replaced at least part of the waste hose. Is my memory correct that the valve for the sink is in the rear cupboard and the hose goes to it outside of the cooker? I seem to remember now that I joined a short length of clear tube onto the original pipe using a plastic joining section - similar to the suggestion in #36 above. The clear PVC hose makes a tighter seal that the brittle old hose.

 

[Neeves]

Take fitting in Post # 1 to nearest decent caravan/4X4/motorhome shop and explore options for a replacement with a more user friendly outlet (being a caravan shop the replacement part will cost much less than anything marine). By the look of the part it is designed to be 'space saving' if that is not needed, the space saving, then a vertical component would be a better bet as it will offer more effective drainage.

A PBO option is to source a shrink cover for rope (google 'shrink cover for rope'). Some such covers come with very high shrinkage. Attach 1" hose (I think that was the size mentioned) and insert the 1" pipe into the shrink cover. Attach 1" hose to fitting and slide cover over 1" hose and over fitting - apply heat. The shrink cover shrinks amazingly and tightly and some covers have an internal coating of adhesive, though whether that helps in this case - don't know.

If all else fails, I'd try amalgamating tape, do what many suggest here - throw money at it and buy a new sink.

My preferred option is the caravan shop.

Jonathan

 

[MattS]

Now you have got me thinking, although I was referring to the water supply hose in my confusion, I do remember that I replaced at least part of the waste hose. Is my memory correct that the valve for the sink is in the rear cupboard and the hose goes to it outside of the cooker? I seem to remember now that I joined a short length of clear tube onto the original pipe using a plastic joining section - similar to the suggestion in #36 above. The clear PVC hose makes a tighter seal that the brittle old hose.

That’s right - I can’t actually see where it runs behind the cooker, and it looks like a nightmare to try and replace.

your solution is exactly what I came up with so pleased about that! New bit of hose, joined onto the old hose with a male to male hose connector

 

[MattS]

They're only shut for 4 days! You can talk to them on 2 August.

As @pvb predicted, first day back and Penguin have come up with the goods straight off the bat WAEL25ST - Single - Drains - Drains&Wastes : Penguin Engineering Ltd - new part plus postage for less than £15 quid.