Attach blocks to genoa cars? Any reasons why not?

antaris

antaris

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Genoa is difficult to tail in. Genoa cars are 44 yr old Goiot and just about roll, on 32mm track:

gennytracks.jpg

instead of replacing the genoa cars themselves, can I just attach blocks to the existing cars with spectra loops? I am talking large, 80mm racing-type blocks that involve some sort of ball-bearing system to ease rolling? These used to be popular some years ago... provided that the blocks are to spec.

PS not bothered about fore-aft movement, really.
 
Garhauer look very nice and I am sure that they work well (pretty popular in US). Price does seem very reasonable, too. Hm, good idea, let's see the postage cost now...

As for the"smashing block on deck"... this is very true.

I am curious as to why the sheave diameters tend to be so small in genoa cars - as opposed to all others on a boat. The sheet angle does make a difference, I can presume. Still, it takes me 15 minutes to sheet my genny in. Waaay too hard.

PS Indeed, the track is 1 1/4"
 
Good warning about them smashing about. Bungee to tension them might tame that. It does on my toerail sheet blocks.

I have the same track blocks and the same problem. I bought replacements when I converted to cutter rig which work well with the staysl. My yankee foresail sheets to a block on the (very strong) toerail but I could do a block mounted on the old track block with a tail to the cockpit to adjust the sheeting angle barber-hauler style when I reef the high-clewed Yankee. Easier than moving the blocks along the track or the conventional push-me-pull-you car systems. Thanks for the idea ?
 
differentroads said:
Good warning about them smashing about. Bungee to tension them might tame that. It does on my toerail sheet blocks.

I have the same track blocks and the same problem. I bought replacements when I converted to cutter rig which work well with the staysl. My yankee foresail sheets to a block on the (very strong) toerail but I could do a block mounted on the old track block with a tail to the cockpit to adjust the sheeting angle barber-hauler style when I reef the high-clewed Yankee. Easier than moving the blocks along the track or the conventional push-me-pull-you car systems. Thanks for the idea ?
Click to expand...


I do hope that the idea works!

As I also installed a staysl this year, it would be double great to have genoa track cars that fit both lines (genoa/staysl) - as I cannot use them simultaneously. I even considered a double block, but this would be continuously pulled in an offset manner, from either sail, so...no good.
 
IMG-20200831-WA0016.jpg
So Antares, like this? staysl and foresl mocked up on my boat. The staysl is on the new Barton track block forward, my Yankee on the block above the stuck Goiot block aft, through the snatch block.
I usually fly the Yankee fairly free through a block on the toerails to keep the sheet off the guardrails. The height of the block in the picture would probably have theright sheeting angle and keep the sheet above the guardrail.
The photo illustrates the danger of a Barber hauler. That block would make short work of the portlight nearby, my kneecaps, the gelcoat, etc if left flogging. I favour a low friction ring now I've seen it mocked up.
 
I had simple small blocks when I got my boat, replaced them after a couple of years, picked up a pair of almost new larger ball bearing pair cheap on ebay - they do clatter around at times but no obvious serious damage and they certainly work better than the originals. Have toyed with the idea of a spring to keep them upright but that's at the bottom of my list.
 
differentroads said:
View attachment 97882
So Antares, like this? staysl and foresl mocked up on my boat. The staysl is on the new Barton track block forward, my Yankee on the block above the stuck Goiot block aft, through the snatch block.
I usually fly the Yankee fairly free through a block on the toerails to keep the sheet off the guardrails. The height of the block in the picture would probably have theright sheeting angle and keep the sheet above the guardrail.
The photo illustrates the danger of a Barber hauler. That block would make short work of the portlight nearby, my kneecaps, the gelcoat, etc if left flogging. I favour a low friction ring now I've seen it mocked up.
Click to expand...

Yeap! Exactly what I was thinking - only with a much shorter loop length, to avoid mad flogging, but this is exactly the concept. Pretty close to this idea, just not on the toerail as seen here, but on the genoa car block:
softshackle.jpg [photo is not mine, found on current forum]


Unlike your setup, I also need to utilise a double footblock, due to the geomentry of the sheet angles, but this is another story.
 
PetiteFleur said:
I had simple small blocks when I got my boat, replaced them after a couple of years, picked up a pair of almost new larger ball bearing pair cheap on ebay - they do clatter around at times but no obvious serious damage and they certainly work better than the originals. Have toyed with the idea of a spring to keep them upright but that's at the bottom of my list.
Click to expand...

Some inexpensive rubber hose length may do the trick? Or any rubber donut thingy?
 
antaris said:
Yeap! Exactly what I was thinking - only with a much shorter loop length, to avoid mad flogging, but this is exactly the concept. Pretty close to this idea, just not on the toerail as seen here, but on the genoa car block:
View attachment 97886 [photo is not mine, found on current forum]


Unlike your setup, I also need to utilise a double footblock, due to the geomentry of the sheet angles, but this is another story.
Click to expand...
My foresail sheets collide horribly on their way to the cockpit winches. Offsetting them verticaly as in my pictures avoids that. Stacking your blocks above each other would too, but if its on one track attachment thats a lot of loading at one point on the track. A recipe for leaks if they are sealed with silicone, like a previous owner had done on my boat.

Btw, I happen to have a couple of spare Barton sheaves which have the same centre hole size as the Goiot fittings. The sheaves are a bit narrower so would need a mm or two of packing if I could get the pin/bush out of the siezed Goiot fitting. Worth bearing in mind if there is a benefit in refurbing yours.
 
differentroads said:
So, Antares, a mock up of a LFR on a line back to the cockpit. Less scary than a block and cheaper. I'll try this arrangement out when I'm next sailing. View attachment 97889
Click to expand...

Much like a barber hauler. It really depends on the boat/sail sizes - you may find excessive friction with this setup, having two immovable "blocks" to tackle.

The angles also make a difference in the force applied (from Wichard website):
blocks-loading-formulas-67993_1mg.jpg
 
antaris said:
Much like a barber hauler. It really depends on the boat/sail sizes - you may find excessive friction with this setup, having two immovable "blocks" to tackle.

The angles also make a difference in the force applied (from Wichard website):
Click to expand...
Thats really useful info. Thanks for sharing. A few tears ago I found a loading table or formula for winch and sheet sizing. Would you find that useful?
The LFR has a fairly small deflection so I'm comfortable with the load and chafe there. The adjustment line is 90°, so more significant for friction and chafe. With a Yankee roller reefing foresail the sheet angles aren't as critical as a lower cut Genoa. It might just be a matter of picking the best compromise angle for my reefing positions and having a fixed line to the LFR. If thats no good I'll knock out the pin from the Goiots and unstick or replace the sheaves. I really should do that anyway!
 
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