Ian_Rob
Well-Known Member
Will ATF oil on a Volvo Saildrive diaphragm seal have long term implications vis-à-vis the life of the seal?
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ATF Oil on Seal Drive Seal
- Thread starter Ian_Rob
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DaveS
Well-Known Member
Not a direct answer, but a couple of years ago I got quite a lot of engine oil on my VP 120 sail drive seal when the filler cap O ring failed (it expanded by about 10mm in diameter!). I have just changed the seal and, as was the case the last time I changed it, the old seal looked just as good as the new one.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Are we talking small spillage or permanent contact? If spillage, no real threat at all if you wipe it up.
ATF is a mineral oil very heavily loaded with additives. It should be fine with a nitrile or neoprene seal, which I assume would be the material of choice. Not definitive advice, only based on general knowledge of the materials involved.
ATF is a mineral oil very heavily loaded with additives. It should be fine with a nitrile or neoprene seal, which I assume would be the material of choice. Not definitive advice, only based on general knowledge of the materials involved.
Ian_Rob
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your replies.
I have an ongoing leak of ATF oil and though I wipe it up there is always a residual amount left in the crevice between the diaphragm seal and saildrive housing.
The question really relates to deciding what to do about the leak. The engineers are uncertain as to the cause and say that the leak appears to be 'coming from the joint between the upper and lower sections of the sail drive' but that the only way of ascertaining this for sure is to separate the engine and gear box and to split the upper and lower sections of the saildrive AND at the same time take the opportunity to replace the diaphragm seal.
As the boat is 5 years old the seal should [theoretically] be replaced in 2 years time anyway but the cost for all this is an eye-watering £1752 inc VAT [£260 seal + £1200 Labour + VAT & perhaps more if the woodwork around the engine compartment needs to be taken apart].
An alternative view is:
- Missing ‘o’ ring on the dip stick [I have checked this and it is there].
- Crushed olive on the pump out drain [I need to check this].
- Split in the top of the pump out drain. [I need to check this].
Is there anyway of pressure testing the installation to locate the problem? If it is resulting from a lesser cause and the risk of ATF oil having damaged the seal small, I would leave the diaphragm for the time being.
I am not in a position to do the work myself as I live a long way from where I keep the boat.
Ian
I have an ongoing leak of ATF oil and though I wipe it up there is always a residual amount left in the crevice between the diaphragm seal and saildrive housing.
The question really relates to deciding what to do about the leak. The engineers are uncertain as to the cause and say that the leak appears to be 'coming from the joint between the upper and lower sections of the sail drive' but that the only way of ascertaining this for sure is to separate the engine and gear box and to split the upper and lower sections of the saildrive AND at the same time take the opportunity to replace the diaphragm seal.
As the boat is 5 years old the seal should [theoretically] be replaced in 2 years time anyway but the cost for all this is an eye-watering £1752 inc VAT [£260 seal + £1200 Labour + VAT & perhaps more if the woodwork around the engine compartment needs to be taken apart].
An alternative view is:
- Missing ‘o’ ring on the dip stick [I have checked this and it is there].
- Crushed olive on the pump out drain [I need to check this].
- Split in the top of the pump out drain. [I need to check this].
Is there anyway of pressure testing the installation to locate the problem? If it is resulting from a lesser cause and the risk of ATF oil having damaged the seal small, I would leave the diaphragm for the time being.
I am not in a position to do the work myself as I live a long way from where I keep the boat.
Ian
Mrnotming
Well-Known Member
I found that on long french canal trips that oil came out and pampers mop up was needed regularly.That was engine oil as dealer fitted to 120SE leg.
Since changed to Volvo transmission stuff @ €66 for 3 L.
Also keep oil level to minimum in leg.
Did split leg,removing small area of joinery to facilitate job.
Dougnut found perfect.Slight corrosion treated.
No trouble lately though passages are shorter now.
DIY possible esp if motorcycle/car mechanics an earlier hobby.
Took me a day and a half to do the job.Some more experienced will do it in one day.Helper an advantage as will be the taking of photos at each stage.
Since changed to Volvo transmission stuff @ €66 for 3 L.
Also keep oil level to minimum in leg.
Did split leg,removing small area of joinery to facilitate job.
Dougnut found perfect.Slight corrosion treated.
No trouble lately though passages are shorter now.
DIY possible esp if motorcycle/car mechanics an earlier hobby.
Took me a day and a half to do the job.Some more experienced will do it in one day.Helper an advantage as will be the taking of photos at each stage.