apply copper antifoul with boat in cradle

[RivalRoger]

Hi there. a newbie to this forum though I have been following it for a while now. We have recently aquired our Rival and as per what we did with our Hurley 22 we intend to put a copper based antifoul on. The problem is that where the Hurley had her own legs which did not interfere with the underbody at all, Sarah G is in a cradle with the four support pads sitting firmly below the waterline area.

Symblast have done an excellent job of stripping the old antifoul off but when I come to apply the coppercoat do I have to do the rest of the boat while saving a bit of the copper stuff to do the four patches and get the yard to move her in the cradle a bit.

Obviously I would not go courting a darwin award by undoing the supports myself!

All suggestions gratefully received.

 

[davidej]

Our yard will not let you adjust the props yourself.

Do the copper coating on the visible parts of the hull, then ask the yard to put in temporary struts and loosen off the others. When you have coated the patches, ask them to reverse the proceedure

 

[CharlesSwallow]

A/F is very quick drying

...so paint all you can for now and then when she's due to go into the water and hanging in the yard's slings, touch-up the patches. I, and everyone I know have used this method for decades and never a problem with any paint coming off. It is the accepted way and all yard hands and dockmasters will be co-operative. Be ready with the tin and brush though, they won't accept unnecessary delay!

Chas

 

[Elessar]

...so paint all you can for now and then when she's due to go into the water and hanging in the yard's slings, touch-up the patches. I, and everyone I know have used this method for decades and never a problem with any paint coming off. It is the accepted way and all yard hands and dockmasters will be co-operative. Be ready with the tin and brush though, they won't accept unnecessary delay!

Chas

no no no! coppercoat is water soluble until it has cured you cannot do it in the slings.

Roger, you need to wait till the main hull is cured, get it reblocked, paint the patches then wait till they have cured before launch. Yes keep half a pot back, you need to keep 1/2 of both pots plus half the copper so your mix ratios stay the same. Abrade a couple of inches of the cured coppercoat around the patches so any overlaps can form a mechanical bond, and make sure you do your 4 coats on the patches, wet on tacky.

 

[CharlesSwallow]

I think you will find, if you read the OP that

no no no! coppercoat is water soluble until it has cured you cannot do it in the slings.

Roger, you need to wait till the main hull is cured, get it reblocked, paint the patches then wait till they have cured before launch. Yes keep half a pot back, you need to keep 1/2 of both pots plus half the copper so your mix ratios stay the same. Abrade a couple of inches of the cured coppercoat around the patches so any overlaps can form a mechanical bond, and make sure you do your 4 coats on the patches, wet on tacky.

...he talks, initially of "copper based antifoul" NOT specifically "coppercoat" although this needs clarification.

Kindly don't be so keen to jump down a fellow poster's throat.

Chas

 

[Moodyjim]

Ar, but davidej talks about copper coating so easily misunderstood nest pah!

 

[Elessar]

...he talks, initially of "copper based antifoul" NOT specifically "coppercoat" although this needs clarification.

Kindly don't be so keen to jump down a fellow poster's throat.

Chas

Charles, I was correcting what I saw as a significant error and not intentionally jumping down your throat, apologies if it seemed that way but see below.

............but when I come to apply the coppercoat.............

 

[Sans Bateau]

...he talks, initially of "copper based antifoul" NOT specifically "coppercoat" although this needs clarification.

Kindly don't be so keen to jump down a fellow poster's throat.

Chas

You should not be so critical of Elessar jumping on your post, correcting you. Your advice was very definite, just another forum case of people replying without first reading or understanding the question I'm afraid.

Rivalroger. You must ensure that the areas where the pads have been are cleaned off down to clean gel coat, rough up the surface and degrease before you commence application of the coppercoat. And you must mix ithe elements of the coppercoat in proportion as per instructions, just as Elessar said. If you fail to do this you may have a problem with adhesion in th efuture.

 

[rob2]

Depending on the rules in your yard, there is another way - particularly if you have an aluminium toerail. Scaffolding poles fastened across the deck fore and aft with leags and braces will hold the boat upright and leave the hull totally unencumbered.

Rob.

 

[macd]

Just a thought, RivalRoger. Does your R34 happen to have two mysterious holes high on the topsides amidships? Some R32s do. These are provided to bolt-on shore legs, which could solve your problem. The legs are nothing fancy -- just lengths of 4 x 4 bolted to a piece formed to fit the profile of the hull.

 

[rivonia]

...so paint all you can for now and then when she's due to go into the water and hanging in the yard's slings, touch-up the patches. I, and everyone I know have used this method for decades and never a problem with any paint coming off. It is the accepted way and all yard hands and dockmasters will be co-operative. Be ready with the tin and brush though, they won't accept unnecessary delay!

Chas

NO NO NO DO NOT DO AS ABOVE!
1 The coppercoat will require at least 5 layers
2 You will have to sand down to glass
3 The paint MUST dry for at least 24hrs before going into the water.

Good luck

Peter

 

[santeana]

RR - Mac beat me to it. My R34 sits neatly on legs each winter without any problem. Just as a precaution I add a wooden brace under the bow. The keel rests on a thick timber so the legs need 'fillers' to maintain level. It's well worth thinking about especially if you envisage wintering ashore or hauling-out elsewhere than your yard. If you wish pm me and I'll get measurements for you.

 

[RivalRoger]

Thanks for all the helpful responses

Oh dear and a mini spat as well.

Yes, it is definitely coppercoat so a quick slap on in the slings is not a goer unfortunately.

Thanks to all for the advice. I was worried about getting a proper bond between the cured main bit of the coating and the "new" bit under the pads at the moment. As it is a cradle rather than props, there are only four spots to do.

MACD & Santaena - yes I do have fixing points for legs as you describe and even have telescopic alloy legs (she really did have everything when I bought her) I will ask the yard if I could deploy those to do the final bit.

Thanks again for all the advice. Now I just need to wait for some better weather and a time slot to do it in. Plans are to be in the water for Easter and a delivery from Emsworth to Plymouth.

Roger Kynaston
-----------------------------
Live Slowly, Sail Fast

 

[CharlesSwallow]

Ah! in that case

Oh dear and a mini spat as well.

Yes, it is definitely coppercoat so a quick slap on in the slings is not a goer unfortunately.

Thanks to all for the advice. I was worried about getting a proper bond between the cured main bit of the coating and the "new" bit under the pads at the moment. As it is a cradle rather than props, there are only four spots to do.

MACD & Santaena - yes I do have fixing points for legs as you describe and even have telescopic alloy legs (she really did have everything when I bought her) I will ask the yard if I could deploy those to do the final bit.

Thanks again for all the advice. Now I just need to wait for some better weather and a time slot to do it in. Plans are to be in the water for Easter and a delivery from Emsworth to Plymouth.

Roger Kynaston
-----------------------------
Live Slowly, Sail Fast

Yes, you need a lot longer time.

I thought you had a Moody 42 in Port Hamble once?

Chas

 

[rob2]

If you've got the legs for it (blush) why not use them for the whole job and get it done in one? If the yard have some objections, then put a leg on to do each side separately - you could chain down to the cradle on the other side as an (unecessary) precautionary measure.

You can get a much better overall finish without doing patches.

Rob.