AP installation for MF 695 250 Hp Garmin Echomap UHD 60

simonfraser

simonfraser

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the echomap has an AP function, not fussed if it can take me round the UK following a route, as long as it can hold a reasonably steady course that's fine

the T connectors are already present, no return line yet (yes the 2.0L pump will fit through the apperature, rubber feet, Dimensions (L × W × H) 31.75 × 11.43 × 10.16 cm)

1) if i set this up without the AP pump being connected / powered can i still use the boat ?

2) shaddow drive disconnects to AP pump automatically, but i can do the same using the Garmin Echomap control ?

3) can i see the chart plotter screen and the AP control at the same time, side by side ?

4) i have a plastic screw top at the helm, is that sufficient for a 'vent' as required in the manual ?
1704126845750.png
 
as Paul implies, you need a bit more studying to do! The diagram you're showing us is for the hyrdaulic installation. You need the "electrical" bits (or core pack) as well and that's where half the money is.
control head (possibly not needed on the echomap, dunno), a/p ecu, digital compass assorted cablework and if you wish (you do wish!) the shadow drive thingie.

Teeing into the main hydraulic lines going from the helm "pump" to the ram moving the engine about and either fitting something on the tees (like a a/p pump) or blocking them wont affect the way helm operates if pump is not doing it's thing. Obvs if you tee and leave them open or join them together you're introducing some small issues and lots of oil in the bilge if left open but it's pretty obvious :)

So to answer your Qs:
1) yes
2) irrelevant
3) not quite relevant (at least in my 4XXX 5XXX garmin plotters), it's just a menu not a visual thing when a/p works
4) most likely would be fine, third line is needed to return some oil back to helm when operated from twin sources
 
Following the comments from VAS...

Care needs to be taken when choosing the pump and the core pack, they do not all mix and match. My suggestion would be to fit a hypro pump, much cheaper than Garmin. Power than from a Garmin core pack, which will interface with the Echomap.If using a non-Garmin pump you need a specific core pack, plus a cable for the pump and a cable for a rudder reference sensor.

You can control the AP from the plotter, but i would recommend a dedicated AP control, either GHC20 or GHC50 (i have a spare GHC20, brand new).

The shadow drive is not compulsory, you can return the AP to standby from the plotter or dedicated controller. There is also a remote available. Costing around £400 i decided i didn't need one for my boat.
 
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I'm due to fit hydraulic steering and autohelm. Circumstances have caused a delay but I did do a layout with all the bits. It's a Reactor Autopilot which doesn't require a rudder reference, it's controlled by the Echomap. From the Echomap you have the Course Computer which plugs into the Electronic Control Unit which (I think) serves as the power supply to the pump.
20221014_153004.jpg
 
Tnx for all the comments, yes realise i need way more parts, inc a core pack
the install will take a while, want to make sure i can still use the boat with the pump and return line plumbed in

demo mode excellent point :)

Hypro pump, cheaper than Garmin - just as reliable ?
Power the pump from a Garmin core pack, which will interface with the Echomap
as long as the core pack is a Reactor AP - no rudder reference is needed
due to the 'wrong' Echomap, need a head to calibrate at least, e.g. HGC20
 
simonfraser said:
Tnx for all the comments, yes realise i need way more parts, inc a core pack
the install will take a while, want to make sure i can still use the boat with the pump and return line plumbed in

demo mode excellent point :)

Hypro pump, cheaper than Garmin - just as reliable ?
Click to expand...
Yes to both. Hypro pump should be £300ish, Garmin probably double that, but check for yourself.
simonfraser said:
Power the pump from a Garmin core pack, which will interface with the Echomap
Click to expand...
Yes, the core pack doesn't know what's on the other end of the wires, you can use any make of pump you want.
simonfraser said:
as long as the core pack is a Reactor AP - no rudder reference is needed
Click to expand...
Garmin pumps have built in reference, so no need for the rudder reference sender. Using 3rd party pumps means you need the rudder reference sender. Just thought, your boat is outboard, yes ? If so, that might be an issue fitting the reference sender, again, double check.
simonfraser said:
due to the 'wrong' Echomap, need a head to calibrate at least, e.g. HGC20
Click to expand...
You need a GHC20 or GHC50, neither is cheap.

If you do have an outboard this might be a better solution (sorry, forgot you were outboard), Compact Reactor™ 40 Hydraulic Autopilot with GHC™ 20 Corepack | Garmin
 
just had a rummage at the boat, i have an Echomap UDH 72cv, don't ass u me what the previous owner tells ya ....

there is a stringer here, think this has been answered already, i can drill into it and seal up the screw holes ?

1704557578885.png



these are the hydraulics, seem to remember it does not matter which way they round are conected to the pump ?
obviously need some extra hose for this and
i still need a return, figured out today how to route that

1704557647777.png


going to be a garmin pump as i then dont need a rudder sensor

def a shaddow drive



New cables from dashboard to pump:
one NMEA cable
one return hydraulic - some boats have that as a transparent line ??
then the shaddow drive cable
any others ?



the Garmin is stuffed with cables, do i need just one NMEA female socket to connect the whole AP package, which can be made available on the 'string' as there is one item connected which is not being used, or ?
i can use the top connection of the helm for the hydraulic return ?

1704558148968.png

tnx for all your comments :)
 
a/p needs power as in 12V (or 24V) DC, heavy cabling, needs to be fused.
Assume a/p ECU will be somewhere there, if so, need the cables for it there.

yes, return can be transparent, there's no pressure in it so can be anything.

Finally, shadow drive thingie needs to be closer to the steering wheel than the a/p pump and ram at the transom.
CANNOT fit it there next to the a/p pump, wont work!
However you need to find the pipes going to the wheel find a convenient place and cut the one to fit the shadow drive.

it's been sometime, but where does the digital compass thingie connect to? ecu or GHC on dash? not on the boat now, Paul?
 
vas said:
a/p needs power as in 12V (or 24V) DC, heavy cabling, needs to be fused.
Assume a/p ECU will be somewhere there, if so, need the cables for it there.

yes, return can be transparent, there's no pressure in it so can be anything.

Finally, shadow drive thingie needs to be closer to the steering wheel than the a/p pump and ram at the transom.
CANNOT fit it there next to the a/p pump, wont work!
However you need to find the pipes going to the wheel find a convenient place and cut the one to fit the shadow drive.

it's been sometime, but where does the digital compass thingie connect to? ecu or GHC on dash? not on the boat now, Paul?
Click to expand...
Heading sensor connects to ECU and N2K (that's the only N2K connection, unless a controller is fitted).
 
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simonfraser said:
just had a rummage at the boat, i have an Echomap UDH 72cv, don't ass u me what the previous owner tells ya ....

there is a stringer here, think this has been answered already, i can drill into it and seal up the screw holes ?

View attachment 170208



these are the hydraulics, seem to remember it does not matter which way they round are conected to the pump ?
obviously need some extra hose for this and
i still need a return, figured out today how to route that

View attachment 170209


going to be a garmin pump as i then dont need a rudder sensor

def a shaddow drive



New cables from dashboard to pump:
one NMEA cable
one return hydraulic - some boats have that as a transparent line ??
then the shaddow drive cable
any others ?



the Garmin is stuffed with cables, do i need just one NMEA female socket to connect the whole AP package, which can be made available on the 'string' as there is one item connected which is not being used, or ?
i can use the top connection of the helm for the hydraulic return ?

View attachment 170210

tnx for all your comments :)
Click to expand...
Heading sensor connects to a Tee on the N2K backbone, no other N2K connections.

No cable from dashboard to pump, the pump connects to the ECU with two cables.

Check the installation instructions for the pump : https://static.garmin.com/pumac/1.2L-2.0L_Pump_Installation_EN.pdf
 
tnx paul re cable link

Vas
will install the shaddow drive near the helm, can i remove one of the lines into the helm input and fit that into the shaddow drive, then have a new line from shaddow drive to the helm, or would that then be too close ?
cutting a line before it gets to the helm is virtually impossible due to where it is located in the side moulding of the boat

1704656614307.png
 
simonfraser said:
tnx paul re cable link

Vas
will install the shaddow drive near the helm, can i remove one of the lines into the helm input and fit that into the shaddow drive, then have a new line from shaddow drive to the helm, or would that then be too close ?
cutting a line before it gets to the helm is virtually impossible due to where it is located in the side moulding of the boat

View attachment 170314
Click to expand...
on my setup run from lower helm to stern must be circa 7m (with all the routing around salon, e/r and lazarette) Shadow drive is around 1m from the helm.
In your boat distance of helm to stern would be less than 7m, (dunno 4-5m? ) so if you manage a foot of so of pipe between I recon you should be fine.
REMEMBER: shadow drive has to be placed horizontally!

Mind config has options to fine tune the sensitivity of the shadow drive (iirc) so in theory you should be fine even sticking it next to the helm with a 10cm hose.

no idea on your other Q re OB, never played with A/P and OB, sorry.

V.
 
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