Anyone used this varnish

[angelsson]

Whilst at the SBO last week visited a stand I had seen at previous shows, they sell a varnish called LE TONKINOIS OIL VARNISH.
It claims to contain only natural ingrediants, and based on an age old Chinese formula, and has a good resistance to UV, which was backed up verbally on the stand with examples of its efficiency in the Caribbean.
I am more concerned about its efficacy than its 'green' qualifications. Has anyone here had any experience of using it on exterior surfaces either in the UK, Med or anywhere else.
Would be gratefull for experiences of others.
Many thanks
Mike

 

[Kilter]

It's very well thought of although I have no direct experience. Try asking on Classic Boat. Personally I'm going to give Coelan a shot this time.

 

[Guest]

Tonkin Oil has been around for donkeys years ... and many people swear by it ....

Me ... I buy cheap B&Q stuff for shiney bits ... and micro-pore satin stuff for exterior hand-rails etc. The satin MP stuff is easy to re-coat - only needs a light sand and away you go. The shiny bits with B&Q cheapo - seem to be ok as long as not outside in direct sunlight .....

I may at times dig deeper into my pocket and buy Ronseal .... but it has to be a special occasion !! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[chrisc]

When I made a small folding table (and a larger removable one)for the cockpit of my boat in 2001 I gave it three coats of the chinese stuff .After 5 years ,including two seasons in the med. i have given the table another two coats .The surface still looks in the same condition as when i made it ,although the table is somewhat scarred having not been removed for the last 5 years hard use,Good stuff.

 

[Gordonmc]

I am on the third season with Le Tonkinois on mahogany brightwork. The boat lives all year on a swinging mooring on a sea-loch.
Previously I used Deks Ojlie, multiple coats of D1 followed by multiple coats D2 which tended to degrade after a season. After a rub-down I put on the Le T on top of the Deks as per advice from the manufacturer.
So far the Le T has performed far better than the Deks. There is no evidence of peeling, although some areas needed a refresher coat due to some sort of mildew. It might have come away with a scrub.
Its very easy to apply, but it does skin easily in the can, despite it not being a varnish.
I decant some for use and blow propane in before sealing the can. Toward the end of a can I usually strain it through muslin to keep out any bits.
And it smells good.

 

[thalassa]

It has been around on the continent for quite a long time. I started using it from about seven years ago, as I was exasperated with putting hardwood oil on the teak grating (cockpit floor). It stayed as new for three years, and had a non-slippery finish, so we were very pleased with it. Excellent for the cockpit table too.
Only drawback IMHO , it is difficult to get it to "glazed" standard as we like it to see in interiors. A thick layer can have a greenish tinge too under certain angles. When newly done, you have to get used to the special aroma...

 

[roger]

We use it on inside work. It's quick drying and tough. Small cans are expensive but probably worth it as half used cans tend to set solid.

 

[davehu]

I find it works very well and am very pleased with it. To stop the skinning problem in the tin I decant it into a plastic bottle and then squeeeze the bottle until there is no air in the bottle, this way I can keep it for 2 years.

 

[Evadne]

I bought some at the boat show, and the recommendation from the man on the stand was to decant into a paint kettle (or whatever) to use, as dipping the brush in introduces air into the body of the liquid, which encourages the formation of little lumps. He reckons that if you do this it will still skin over in the tin, as it sets in the presence of air, but you should be able to remove the skin at a later date to find liquid varnish underneath. Your plastic bottle technique sounds more promising.

 

[alienzdive]

It is unusual for the manufacturers representiive to recomend pulling the skin off and carrying on using their product at a later date. However I do not know the composition of this oil. However when a paint product skins, some of the binding chemicals make thier way to the top, allowing the skin formation to take place. the composition of the remaining product is changed, when used at a later date the product willl not last as well or perform as intended as to its original design. Therefore rendering an otherwise good product to become slightly faulty.

Just a thought?

 

[angelsson]

Many thanks to you all for your kind and very informative replies, what a great forum this is.
Thanks again and good luck.
Mike