lenten
Well-Known Member
thinking of buying one any views welcome------thanks
anyone used the rule 500 computerised bilge pump ??
- Thread starter lenten
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Freebee
Well-Known Member
Whats wrong with a simple float switch?? the computerized system runs for approx 1 second every 2,5 mins I make that nearly 10 mins per day with no water in bilge or 70mins a week with no water in bilge......... that could be quite a lot of current drain if you don't visit your boat for a couple of weeks where as the old float switch only cuts in when needed..
lenten
Well-Known Member
according to rule specs----uses 0.2 per day
TernVI
Well-Known Member
Not a good idea with a dry boat?
We've used similar on the RIB, can't remember model number, but firing them up all the time with dry bearings may not be clever.
Wasn't recommended for one I bought some years ago.
We've used similar on the RIB, can't remember model number, but firing them up all the time with dry bearings may not be clever.
Wasn't recommended for one I bought some years ago.
anoccasionalyachtsman
Well-Known Member
I've had one in an open keelboat for two years now, does the job. (Still is hopefully).
lenten
Well-Known Member
it is for an open boat and always a bit of water from somewhere ---rain/slop/spray---- my main pump is a whale mk 10 hand pump ----just wanted a bit of extra pump capacity-------------------------------------------------------------------------and the children want to buy me a birthday present and there is nothing i ever want apart from a bottle of wray and nephews overproof rum which they get fed up with buying
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anoccasionalyachtsman
Well-Known Member
Mine has a fairly large cockpit opening on a 9m boat, so used to get up to 120mm or so of water in it over a bad week of rain before I fitted it (grp and I don't really want the bother of a cover). Pretty low freeboard too and we do tend to emulate a submarine when pushing hard, so it has its work cut out. The exit is in the foredeck and the lift must be about 90omm. I run it from a motorcycle battery and a 30A panel, the weight of which is trivial compared to that of the water it throws out. I'd not go back to a float switch.
Dipper
Well-Known Member
I have one on my boat. The only time I switch it on is if it's a bit rough so it acts as an insurance in case I start taking on water. I don't think running it dry matters as the impeller is isolated from the mechanism and the bearings don't rely on water to lubricate them. The current drain is very low but it's probably not best suited to leave it switched on on an open boat. As mentioned, it periodically switches on for a few seconds. If it finds water (resistance) it pumps. If there's nothing to pump it cuts out. I suppose it depends on how long the boat is left unattended.
Buck Turgidson
Well-Known Member
I have one but I don't like it.
Will replace with a float switch eventually.
Will replace with a float switch eventually.
lenten
Well-Known Member
hi buck----why don t you like it?
Buck Turgidson
Well-Known Member
for all the reasons above. it buzzes just as I'm nodding off, it uses more power than a float switch version and my biggest dislike is that the slightest bit of oil in the bilge and it doesn't work. So the boat sinks and the water gets polluted anyway. I have a greaser for my stern gland and the bilge is always a little wet and a little greasy and I have to degrease it every few months to keep it working.
TernVI
Well-Known Member
I know several people who've used them OK in open boats, most of them would say it's more reliable than a float switch.
lenten
Well-Known Member
thanks buck-----i have an outboard so don t have your oily bilge problem
thinwater
Well-Known Member
Please explain. Since the motor runs based on detecting liquid (amps) in the pump, why would oil have anything to do this it? No relationship.
Or are we confusing this with conductivity switch types (does not sound like it), which can be coated with oil, though it generally takes a lot more oil than you would want to risk discharging. If the latter is the case, you really need an OWS on the sump discharge.
lynallbel
Well-Known Member
I love that rum, wife hates it as she can smell it on me hours later!
Buck Turgidson
Well-Known Member
Get to boat, check bilge, more water than I would expect, check pump is in auto, check battery usage log over last month, notice it stopped cycling 2 weeks ago, wait 5 minutes to see if pump runs, it doesn't, switch pump on manually, pump runs, put switch back to auto and wait, pump doesn't run, remove pump from bilge and put in bucket of clean water, switch to auto, pump doesn't run, put washing up liquid in bucket with water and put pump to on , run water through pump for 5 minutes, change water, switch to auto and wait, pump now runs every 2.5 minutes and runs until a few seconds after I lift it out of water, leave it like this for several hours while I do other maintenance tasks to confirm correct operation, fit pump back in bilge and monitor auto operation for a few days, pump works so think it's fixed, leave boat for a number of weeks/months, return to boat and repeat.
After the fourth repetition i'm quite happy with my diagnosis. Do you have a different explanation for the recurrent fault?
thinwater
Well-Known Member
I wonder if it has a conductivity sensor in it as well. I'm gonna ask. That certainly is a troubling sensitivity.
Thank you for the detailed reply!
thinwater
Well-Known Member
^^ The web page says this:
The Rule 500 includes a water level sensor, which is a pair of contact that sense conductivity. Yes, they are susceptible to oil fouling, and are PARTICULARLY vulnerable to this when housed in such a way that oil can be trapped. Looks like a bad design, based on 40 years of refinery work (chem engr).
Yeah, I can see how this would fail at the wrong time. Thanks for the heads up!
- Auto Sense Intelligence — integral water level sensor controls the pump automatically
- Back Up Feature — prevents continuous running if sensor is fouled by debris, pump reverts to 2.5 minute cycle mode
The Rule 500 includes a water level sensor, which is a pair of contact that sense conductivity. Yes, they are susceptible to oil fouling, and are PARTICULARLY vulnerable to this when housed in such a way that oil can be trapped. Looks like a bad design, based on 40 years of refinery work (chem engr).
Yeah, I can see how this would fail at the wrong time. Thanks for the heads up!
TernVI
Well-Known Member
People who pump out oily bilge water need a good talking to.
Perhaps it's a good thing that Rule pumps don't want to do this?
Perhaps it's a good thing that Rule pumps don't want to do this?
thinwater
Well-Known Member
I agree on pumping oil. It's a problem. There are oil detectors. There are also in-line oil seporators and absorbants. Leaving pads in the bilge is a good practice if you have this problem, and they should be checked every outing.
But reliability is a separate issue. If a detector or seprator is used, then a separate, higher bilge pump is required for safety.