ShipsWoofy
New member
And what and how is it set up.
Looking for options?
Looking for options?
Anyone have a deck hose
- Thread starter ShipsWoofy
- Start date
Ships_Cat
New member
Yes. Not sure where to start or finish but will write a short book /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.
We put the pump up in the bow as we did not want a hose connection in the aft area as well (eg for saltwater shower, or other and trade off if several connections for pump location is wiring versus pipework in the boat). Main use was for anchor and chain hosing but we use a hose to get all around the boat when necessary.
We put the pump above the waterline for safety. In my view the pump should be positioned with as few plastic piping type connections on the pressure side as possible - if the pump is left with power on and a connection leaks or bursts it will fill your boat up until you notice it.
You can buy standard deck fittings but we used a ss socket on deck that took a standard garden hose plastic male snap type fitting (think they are 3/4 " thread) with a plastic washer under it (plumbers merchants sell a variety of plastic washers for putting under various fittings and I found one the exact size as the socket so not exposed to sunlight) and a hex bush screwed into it from below (our deck is only 3mm thick so it pulled up tight with Sikaflex to seal). Nipple then a ss ball valve and hosetail. We can reach the valve through the forepeak hatch.
The seawater inlet was no problem in our case in that we have one thru hull/seacock for all saltwater services (everything except the engine) which has a manifold on it (after the strainer) going to each service - so just added another connection to the manifold (glass reinforced plastic). Unlike the other service connections we put its own isolating valve (industrial plastic ball valve) at the manifold.
We make a point of always keeping the breaker turned off whenever the pump is not in use - as I say they can pump alot of water into the boat if you don't notice a connection has come loose and the pump is running. That was one reason why we decided to only have one deck outlet, to minimise the pressure side plumbing.
Also, you need quite a strong jet to clean sticky mud off chain so go for a good nozzle on the hose you use and not a weak pump (we used a Flojet four port positive displacement diaphragm pump with built in pressure switch - 4.5 or 5 galls/min if I recall correctly and that is barely enough). They draw around 8 amps from memory so if wiring to the bow one needs to keep in mind the voltage drop.
Again, keep in mind that it can fill your boat with water if an unnoticed problem, so is worth keeping that in mind for whatever you do.
John
We put the pump up in the bow as we did not want a hose connection in the aft area as well (eg for saltwater shower, or other and trade off if several connections for pump location is wiring versus pipework in the boat). Main use was for anchor and chain hosing but we use a hose to get all around the boat when necessary.
We put the pump above the waterline for safety. In my view the pump should be positioned with as few plastic piping type connections on the pressure side as possible - if the pump is left with power on and a connection leaks or bursts it will fill your boat up until you notice it.
You can buy standard deck fittings but we used a ss socket on deck that took a standard garden hose plastic male snap type fitting (think they are 3/4 " thread) with a plastic washer under it (plumbers merchants sell a variety of plastic washers for putting under various fittings and I found one the exact size as the socket so not exposed to sunlight) and a hex bush screwed into it from below (our deck is only 3mm thick so it pulled up tight with Sikaflex to seal). Nipple then a ss ball valve and hosetail. We can reach the valve through the forepeak hatch.
The seawater inlet was no problem in our case in that we have one thru hull/seacock for all saltwater services (everything except the engine) which has a manifold on it (after the strainer) going to each service - so just added another connection to the manifold (glass reinforced plastic). Unlike the other service connections we put its own isolating valve (industrial plastic ball valve) at the manifold.
We make a point of always keeping the breaker turned off whenever the pump is not in use - as I say they can pump alot of water into the boat if you don't notice a connection has come loose and the pump is running. That was one reason why we decided to only have one deck outlet, to minimise the pressure side plumbing.
Also, you need quite a strong jet to clean sticky mud off chain so go for a good nozzle on the hose you use and not a weak pump (we used a Flojet four port positive displacement diaphragm pump with built in pressure switch - 4.5 or 5 galls/min if I recall correctly and that is barely enough). They draw around 8 amps from memory so if wiring to the bow one needs to keep in mind the voltage drop.
Again, keep in mind that it can fill your boat with water if an unnoticed problem, so is worth keeping that in mind for whatever you do.
John
boatmike
Well-known member
Absolutely correct as always, John. I would only add that if the pump itself is kept in a locker that drains either overboard or to the cockpit the risk of filling the boat up with water is minimised. Also ensure the plumbing from the seacock to the pump is hose rated for vacuum rather than pressure and don't forget that a nice long hose on a reel will reach all parts of the boat and can double as a fire hose....... If you valve the intake to take fresh or seawater and fit a variable rate pump with a rheostat you can also have a nice cold shower!
jjj
New member
Hi there I have a deck hose wash which also serves as emergency bilge pump.The basic layout is that the pump is located in the forward section under the porthand bunk. The outlet is run through the forward bulkhead to the anchor locker, where it's attached to the hose with a control nozzle.The connection to the inlet side of the pump has a three way control valve which allows me to pump water from the bilge in an emergency or through a seacock for general use. I hope this adds a little light. JJJ
Mirelle
N/A
No, but I\'ve been thinking of one, using an engine driven pump
Not fancying the thought of an 8 amp current drain, I have been conjecturing a Jabsco belt driven pump belted off the flywheel with a diverter valve to either bilge strum box or seacock and a deck fitting at the cockpit (thinking better long hose than long pipe run)
I thought I might use a cockpit drain seacock (1 1/2" Blake) as the inlet seacock, as it's adjacent and easily reachable. The pressure side would be 3/4".
Has anyone done something like this?
Not fancying the thought of an 8 amp current drain, I have been conjecturing a Jabsco belt driven pump belted off the flywheel with a diverter valve to either bilge strum box or seacock and a deck fitting at the cockpit (thinking better long hose than long pipe run)
I thought I might use a cockpit drain seacock (1 1/2" Blake) as the inlet seacock, as it's adjacent and easily reachable. The pressure side would be 3/4".
Has anyone done something like this?
ShipsWoofy
New member
Re: No, but I\'ve been thinking of one, using an engine driven pump
Interesting. The first thing I thought when reading the cats response with his high pressure pump was how it would also make a great additional bilge pump.
No one so far, admittedly there are not many responses yet, has suggested throwing a pump over the side (KISS) attached by a line of some kind. Only one suggestion of a mechanical pump too.
The way I see it, but am not too sure how,
As Ships Cat says, an internal pump through seacock and fittings on deck.
A mechanical pump driven off the engine; I have a spare 3GM30 pump, but I don't think an impeller pump like this will have enough head to be of much use and in order to turn it off it would have to be on a cam so you can swing it into the engine to remove the belt.
Chuck a pump over the side with attached hose and cables, using either some of my old rigging wire or a piece of cord. How strong would the pump need to be to lift water 5ft minimum with still enough pressure to wash decks etc.
I also have a great advantage that I have a couple of holes in my nacelle (catamaran) that I could have a pump on the bridge deck and drop a pipe through the hole into the water when needed, but, how much weight would I need to keep the hose down is under way?
My biggest conundrum, actually second biggest, even third thinking about it /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
1. Cost, I want this to be cheap or even free! A second hand pump would be great
2. weight, I need to keep the weight down
3. Pressure, how strong a pump is needed to lift a minimum of 5ft and still maintain a useful wash.
I am looking to make cleaning decks etc. easier than using a bucket which means you will get soaked. If you read back you will find I have a stainless mesh trampoline, which the dog uses on passage as a toilet area, being able to wash this with a little pressure at sea would really be helpful.
I come from a background of trawlers, we had a permanent hose always on, usually around 1" hose and stuck through a scupper when not in use. Obviously this is a bit too industrial, hence my what are the options questions.
Is electrikery definitely the way to go, if so, what kind of pump am I actually looking for?
Interesting. The first thing I thought when reading the cats response with his high pressure pump was how it would also make a great additional bilge pump.
No one so far, admittedly there are not many responses yet, has suggested throwing a pump over the side (KISS) attached by a line of some kind. Only one suggestion of a mechanical pump too.
The way I see it, but am not too sure how,
As Ships Cat says, an internal pump through seacock and fittings on deck.
A mechanical pump driven off the engine; I have a spare 3GM30 pump, but I don't think an impeller pump like this will have enough head to be of much use and in order to turn it off it would have to be on a cam so you can swing it into the engine to remove the belt.
Chuck a pump over the side with attached hose and cables, using either some of my old rigging wire or a piece of cord. How strong would the pump need to be to lift water 5ft minimum with still enough pressure to wash decks etc.
I also have a great advantage that I have a couple of holes in my nacelle (catamaran) that I could have a pump on the bridge deck and drop a pipe through the hole into the water when needed, but, how much weight would I need to keep the hose down is under way?
My biggest conundrum, actually second biggest, even third thinking about it /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
1. Cost, I want this to be cheap or even free! A second hand pump would be great
2. weight, I need to keep the weight down
3. Pressure, how strong a pump is needed to lift a minimum of 5ft and still maintain a useful wash.
I am looking to make cleaning decks etc. easier than using a bucket which means you will get soaked. If you read back you will find I have a stainless mesh trampoline, which the dog uses on passage as a toilet area, being able to wash this with a little pressure at sea would really be helpful.
I come from a background of trawlers, we had a permanent hose always on, usually around 1" hose and stuck through a scupper when not in use. Obviously this is a bit too industrial, hence my what are the options questions.
Is electrikery definitely the way to go, if so, what kind of pump am I actually looking for?
Ships_Cat
New member
Re: No, but I\'ve been thinking of one, using an engine driven pump
On bigger boats yes - except serving fire hydrants rather than washdown hose, but essentially the same thing (as BoatMike alludes to).
Suction switched from either bilge or sea with two way valve. In my view the non return valve on the bilge side suction should be a good quality one as apart from operating as a foot valve, should the pump not be a positive displacement one, it also acts to prevent any backflow into the bilge should the sea suction side seacock leak - alternatively, and in my mind preferably if a foot valve is not required, I would have a ball valve in the bilge suction, to be opened if the bilge wanted to be pumped.
As you can see, I am averse to back flooding /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.
John
On bigger boats yes - except serving fire hydrants rather than washdown hose, but essentially the same thing (as BoatMike alludes to).
Suction switched from either bilge or sea with two way valve. In my view the non return valve on the bilge side suction should be a good quality one as apart from operating as a foot valve, should the pump not be a positive displacement one, it also acts to prevent any backflow into the bilge should the sea suction side seacock leak - alternatively, and in my mind preferably if a foot valve is not required, I would have a ball valve in the bilge suction, to be opened if the bilge wanted to be pumped.
As you can see, I am averse to back flooding /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.
John
tcm
...
Um, yes, i have deck/anchor wash but came std with boat - electric motors drive the 24v pumps afaik.
An anchor wash is usually seawater, else bit of a waste i suppose. Separately, with loads of clag and seawater slooshing about you need freshwater as well, via shower attachment thing . For some boats i spose this could take the place of a transom shower, or all showers if in warm waters.
An anchor wash is usually seawater, else bit of a waste i suppose. Separately, with loads of clag and seawater slooshing about you need freshwater as well, via shower attachment thing . For some boats i spose this could take the place of a transom shower, or all showers if in warm waters.
Mirelle
N/A
Aversion shared
Thank you. I will go for the ball valve. I dislike things that you forget about and which eventually fail.
Manual bilge pumps go to seacock in topsides, with two non-return valves (not counting those in the diaphragm pumps) between seacock and bilge. The result of an educational experience in someone else's boat as a boy, after a long spell on the same tack...
Thank you. I will go for the ball valve. I dislike things that you forget about and which eventually fail.
Manual bilge pumps go to seacock in topsides, with two non-return valves (not counting those in the diaphragm pumps) between seacock and bilge. The result of an educational experience in someone else's boat as a boy, after a long spell on the same tack...
Roy
New member
To get extra water on board for wash down, we carry a small cheap rechargeable drill and spinny pump thing which sticks into the chuck. Stick one end in the oggin and squirt the other end anywhere. About £25 quids worth from B&Q. Great for emptying garden ponds although our current boat is not fitted with a pond.
boatmike
Well-known member
Re: No, but I\'ve been thinking of one, using an engine driven pump
Nothing wrong with belt driven Jabsco type pumps for this use. Just need a clutch to engage/disengage. Easier to fit an electric pump though and you can fit it where you like. Power consumption not an issue really, like an anchor winch, you only use it for short periods usually when the engine is running.
Nothing wrong with belt driven Jabsco type pumps for this use. Just need a clutch to engage/disengage. Easier to fit an electric pump though and you can fit it where you like. Power consumption not an issue really, like an anchor winch, you only use it for short periods usually when the engine is running.
Goldie
Well-known member
Re: Engine Driven Pump.
We have a belt driven Jabsco pump mounted under the cabin sole and engaged by a lever (which means lifting a small sole board). This pump serve as high capacity bilge pump and also deck wash. In addition to the strum box and hose, it has its own inlet seacock (although given suitable hose, I don't see why it couldn't use a cockpit drain) and the inlet mode is then selected by a diverter valve. Another diverter valve on the outlet side selects bilge water out through the side, or sea water out through the deck wash. The deck wash is mounted forward with a short hose and standard hose fitting, which means that I can clip on an extension hose which allows me to get high pressure water to anywhere on the boat. The "default" position for the diverter valves is "bilge in/skin fitting out" which means the bilge pump is always instantly available. One improvement would be to have an electro-magnetic clutch which would allow the pump to be engaged/disengaged from the helm position or from the deckwash outlet as sailing double-handed means someone has to dash below to turn the pump off. All-in-all it's a fantastic piece of kit which has enough ooomph to clean the most clay fouled anchor. It also comes in handy when someone chucks water filled balloons at you.........
We have a belt driven Jabsco pump mounted under the cabin sole and engaged by a lever (which means lifting a small sole board). This pump serve as high capacity bilge pump and also deck wash. In addition to the strum box and hose, it has its own inlet seacock (although given suitable hose, I don't see why it couldn't use a cockpit drain) and the inlet mode is then selected by a diverter valve. Another diverter valve on the outlet side selects bilge water out through the side, or sea water out through the deck wash. The deck wash is mounted forward with a short hose and standard hose fitting, which means that I can clip on an extension hose which allows me to get high pressure water to anywhere on the boat. The "default" position for the diverter valves is "bilge in/skin fitting out" which means the bilge pump is always instantly available. One improvement would be to have an electro-magnetic clutch which would allow the pump to be engaged/disengaged from the helm position or from the deckwash outlet as sailing double-handed means someone has to dash below to turn the pump off. All-in-all it's a fantastic piece of kit which has enough ooomph to clean the most clay fouled anchor. It also comes in handy when someone chucks water filled balloons at you.........
Mirelle
N/A
Re: Engine Driven Pump.
Thank you very much. Nothing is quite so reassuring as hearing from someone who has actually done the thing one is planning to do! Jabsco themselves also suggested the electromagnetic clutch rather than the manual one.
Thank you very much. Nothing is quite so reassuring as hearing from someone who has actually done the thing one is planning to do! Jabsco themselves also suggested the electromagnetic clutch rather than the manual one.
pvb
Well-known member
And they\'re cheaper!
As far as I know, pumps with electromagnetic clutches are usually cheaper than those with manual clutches. One point worth considering is that engine-driven pumps should normally always have flow through them - so you wouldn't be able to put a trigger nozzle on a deckwash hose.
As far as I know, pumps with electromagnetic clutches are usually cheaper than those with manual clutches. One point worth considering is that engine-driven pumps should normally always have flow through them - so you wouldn't be able to put a trigger nozzle on a deckwash hose.
Ships_Cat
New member
Re: And they\'re cheaper!
Yes, but I believe that you can use a trigger nozzle.
For an electromechanical clutched positive displacement pump, especially the rubber impellor ones such as the Jabscos (which I have used the big ones of) you have to fit a vacuum cutoff switch (senses low pressure on the suction side) to declutch them to avoid them running dry/blocked if a valve/nozzle shut upstream or bilge runs dry (remember cannot use a float switch easily for bilge cutoff as you want the pump to work when you wash your deck even though the bilge is dry). Would think that would be ok with a trigger type hose nozzle - certainly works ok when one turns a fire hydrant off and on.
For a mechanical clutch well?????
If a centrifugal pump then one can either have a switched low flow bypass or one that just operates some bypass to keep it cool all the time - but is messy. As Woofy says, fishing boats often just leave them running over the side all the time. Probably a small centrifugal would not be best choice for throw anyway.
In the end, unless a big pump is wanted for firefighting or as an engine driven bilge pump then for deck wash on a small boat, electrical multiport diaphragm pump is the easiest and cheapest way to go. Didn't mention before but these always need a fine filter on the suction side (they are usually supplied with one) which may prove a nuisance for bilge pumping (all that cat and dog hair /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif)
John
Yes, but I believe that you can use a trigger nozzle.
For an electromechanical clutched positive displacement pump, especially the rubber impellor ones such as the Jabscos (which I have used the big ones of) you have to fit a vacuum cutoff switch (senses low pressure on the suction side) to declutch them to avoid them running dry/blocked if a valve/nozzle shut upstream or bilge runs dry (remember cannot use a float switch easily for bilge cutoff as you want the pump to work when you wash your deck even though the bilge is dry). Would think that would be ok with a trigger type hose nozzle - certainly works ok when one turns a fire hydrant off and on.
For a mechanical clutch well?????
If a centrifugal pump then one can either have a switched low flow bypass or one that just operates some bypass to keep it cool all the time - but is messy. As Woofy says, fishing boats often just leave them running over the side all the time. Probably a small centrifugal would not be best choice for throw anyway.
In the end, unless a big pump is wanted for firefighting or as an engine driven bilge pump then for deck wash on a small boat, electrical multiport diaphragm pump is the easiest and cheapest way to go. Didn't mention before but these always need a fine filter on the suction side (they are usually supplied with one) which may prove a nuisance for bilge pumping (all that cat and dog hair /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif)
John
Barnaclebob
New member
Have you seen the Portable 12v Multiwash System from Wizza?
Its brand new and only just landed in the UK.
Have a look at www.wizzauk.com
Jet Wash..
Regards
Barnacle
Its brand new and only just landed in the UK.
Have a look at www.wizzauk.com
Jet Wash..
Regards
Barnacle
Barnaclebob
New member
Have you seen the Portable 12v Multiwash System from Wizza?
Its brand new and only just landed in the UK.
Have a look at www.wizzauk.com
Jet Wash..
Regards
Barnacle
Its brand new and only just landed in the UK.
Have a look at www.wizzauk.com
Jet Wash..
Regards
Barnacle
ShipsWoofy
New member
Are you the agent for these?
Does not come into my bracket of ;
Cheap or light really.
I am also presuming that it is not going to like seawater either /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
What is the current consumption of this unit?
Does not come into my bracket of ;
Cheap or light really.
I am also presuming that it is not going to like seawater either /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
What is the current consumption of this unit?
paulrossall
New member
I have a standard bilge pump with a long length of wire on it (probably 6 metres, waterproof) and a long (say 5 metres) of hose on it. I plug wire into one of those cigarette lighter sockets and throw the pump in the water and have found the water flow to be more than adequate. This contraption also serves as an emergency bilge pump should I need one. I also use it to pump water out of the dinghy. I also have a long extension lead of thick wire that fits in the socket.Paul
G
Guest
Guest
KISS ..... did it !!
LVM pump connected to stiff section of pipe about 1m long. This then connected to flex hose to spray / wash down. The pump leads were taped to the stiff pipe and then to the hose - where trailing lead connected back to croc clips on battery.
The stiff hose allowed the assembly to be tied of from a stanchion and keep the pump submerged.
It took time to build pressure and never was a real fireball of pressure - but it did the job and was VERY handy when getting back on board after beach jobs etc.
After about 5 years the salt water got to it and it failed ....
/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
LVM pump connected to stiff section of pipe about 1m long. This then connected to flex hose to spray / wash down. The pump leads were taped to the stiff pipe and then to the hose - where trailing lead connected back to croc clips on battery.
The stiff hose allowed the assembly to be tied of from a stanchion and keep the pump submerged.
It took time to build pressure and never was a real fireball of pressure - but it did the job and was VERY handy when getting back on board after beach jobs etc.
After about 5 years the salt water got to it and it failed ....
/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
