Anyone got a source for cheap keep plate lock nuts for a Blakes seacock?

JoeQ

JoeQ

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None of my seacocks have locknuts on the keep plate screws. Also need a handle for a 1 1/2" seacock.

Original part seem a bit over priced :-)
 
I know they are not cheap, but you only need two per seacock! If you are in any doubt as to which ones will fit your sea-cocks, Andy from Yacht Parts in Plymouth is a real fount of knowledge on many things chandlery related and its worth giving him a call. I think that he does mail order to yachts all over the world from some of the conversations I have had with him. No connection except as a regular customer.
 
Depending on how good the access to your seacocks is, these things can be more of a curse than a blessing - getting them undone, especially if they have been left alone for a while, may need a specially-bent spanner, as there often isn't enough room around them to swing a full length one - an alternative solution is to drill crosswise through the bolt heads from flat to flat with a 2mm drill, then lock the bolts with monel metal wire, in the same way as critical bolts are secured in aircraft. This can make servicing the seacocks a lot easier - and no nuts to drop into the bilge!
 
greenalien said:
an alternative solution is to drill crosswise through the bolt heads from flat to flat with a 2mm drill, then lock the bolts with monel metal wire, in the same way as critical bolts are secured in aircraft. This can make servicing the seacocks a lot easier - and no nuts to drop into the bilge!
Click to expand...

I like that idea! My heads seacocks are very awkward to access, being in a cutout in an internal lining that makes it hard to get a spanner to the nuts behind the flange. Lockwiring them would be much easier. I think it's been a while since my dad did any aircraft work, so I might be able to borrow his spinny lockwiring pliers too.

As for the original question, I'm curious. Is there anything special about the Blakes nuts? Why not just use any handy nuts of the appropriate size? Even metal choice isn't too critical (though I wouldn't use mild steel) as unless your bilge is routinely flooded there won't be any galvanic corrosion. I guess they may be some old imperial thread?

Pete
 
greenalien said:
Depending on how good the access to your seacocks is, these things can be more of a curse than a blessing - getting them undone, especially if they have been left alone for a while, may need a specially-bent spanner, as there often isn't enough room around them to swing a full length one - an alternative solution is to drill crosswise through the bolt heads from flat to flat with a 2mm drill, then lock the bolts with monel metal wire, in the same way as critical bolts are secured in aircraft. This can make servicing the seacocks a lot easier - and no nuts to drop into the bilge!
Click to expand...

I have a hunch that a few drops of threadlock would do the trick in this application (but I confess to using the locknuts :))
 
I have a hunch that a few drops of threadlock would do the trick in this application (but I confess to using the locknuts )
Click to expand...
The problem there is that, after servicing, it's often necessary to nip the bolts up a little after the seacocks have been in the water and opened and shut a few times - not so easy with Loctite, as you have to remove the bolts each time to re-apply it, which puts you back to square one - whereas lock-wiring is easily re-done.
 
greenalien said:
- whereas lock-wiring is easily re-done.
Click to expand...
+1

I've just got a "U" shaped piece of wire which goes through the holes in the bolts of the stuffing box. it stays in place without twisting or other restraint, and is easily withdrawn for adjustment.
Why I didn't do it to the heads as well, I'll never know - but it will happen now!
 
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