Antifouling time

2nd_apprentice

2nd_apprentice

Well-Known Member
Joined
18 Mar 2007
Messages
2,480
Location
Berlin
Visit site
Reading through FAQ's and data sheets left me thoroughly confused ;)
Over the course of the next week I'm planning to apply the Jotun paint system. Sanded the hull back to epoxy and patched up a few spots using SP epoxy. Next steps AIU:

- degrease hull. Acetone ok? If not, what else?
- wash hull, using clean water (well, who would use dirty water!)
- dry hull, have a tea
- first coat of Penguard HB, brush application (not clear about how to judge film thickness)
- four coats needed, meaning four days
- One coat (?) Vinyguard Silvergrey 88. Roller(?)
- Two (?) coats of SeaQueen A/F. Roller

I couldn't find any information on time needed between applying the different paints. Hope not curing time!
Unfortunately it's going to rain next week and I want/need to be back in the water on the fifth, hmm.
No doubt somebody will recommend Coppercoat but no thanks. Got the tins.
 
Id not think acetone would be a good choice. I think something less volatile might be better. What do the paint manufacturers recommend ? Usually it is the thinner for the paint.

If necessary you can get wet film thickness gauges.

The product data sheets should give you all the relevant info regarding preparation and overcoating times.
 
VicS said:
Id not think acetone would be a good choice. I think something less volatile might be better. What do the paint manufacturers recommend ? Usually it is the thinner for the paint.

If necessary you can get wet film thickness gauges.

The product data sheets should give you all the relevant info regarding preparation and overcoating times.
Click to expand...

Actually I also have the correct thinners for Primer, Vinyguard and SeaQueen. The data sheets only mention "water soluble degreaser" which doesn't sound like acetone. The data sheets aren't exactly written with the amateur yachtsman in mind. Is there a way of telling how thick 100 microns are without having to invest in yet another instrument?
 
Last edited:
2nd_apprentice said:
Actually I also have the correct thinners for Primer, Vinyguard and SeaQueen. The data sheets only mention "water soluble degreaser" which doesn't sound like acetone. The data sheets aren't exactly written with the amateur yachtsman in mind. Is there a way of telling how thick 100 microns are without having to invest in yet another instrument?
Click to expand...

Acetone is water soluble. But it is so volatile none will remain on the surface for more than a few seconds. Dunno what they mean. Does their range of products include anything they regard as a water soluble degreaser. I'd have taken it to mean an emulsifying solvent.

I had a little gauge at one time ( given away by International IIRC) for checking wet film thickness.

A little Googling will find info on film thickness gauges
 
2nd_apprentice said:
Reading through FAQ's and data sheets left me thoroughly confused ;)
Over the course of the next week I'm planning to apply the Jotun paint system. Sanded the hull back to epoxy and patched up a few spots using SP epoxy. Next steps AIU:

- degrease hull. Acetone ok? If not, what else?
- wash hull, using clean water (well, who would use dirty water!)
- dry hull, have a tea
- first coat of Penguard HB, brush application (not clear about how to judge film thickness)
- four coats needed, meaning four days
- One coat (?) Vinyguard Silvergrey 88. Roller(?)
- Two (?) coats of SeaQueen A/F. Roller

I couldn't find any information on time needed between applying the different paints. Hope not curing time!
Unfortunately it's going to rain next week and I want/need to be back in the water on the fifth, hmm.
No doubt somebody will recommend Coppercoat but no thanks. Got the tins.
Click to expand...

Don't worry too much. It'll still get weed and beasties growing on it!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top