Antifoul quote

citygent111

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Hi all,

Prior to our boat (19ft sportscruiser) going into a marina for the first time, I've had a quote for antifouling - it's never been done before, and I've no experience of it to know if it's a fair price?

So first question - if it's going to be in the water from April-Sept/Oct, so around 6 months a year, does it need doing at all? I assume it does but more than happy to be corrected!!

So the quote -

Antifoul - New Boat
1) To degrease hull. Tape up waterline, hard sand to etch. Clean off, re-tape, apply two coats of Primocon Primer. Apply two coats of International antifouling in a colour of your choice. £200.16
2) Consumables and waste disposal - £25
3) Labour 12.00 hrs @ £45.00 = £540.00

Does this look reasonable?

Thanks!
 

SailingDog

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Material costs look pretty good, antifoul around £100 for 2-2.5 litres, Primacon £30 for 0.75 litre.
Labour charges 12 hours seems a tad generous, 10 more like it. If sanding is by hand maybe 12 but more likely by sander, that said transport costs and machine use…

Antifouling Is good for the sole, it reminds you why you didn’t purchase Pershing 60
 

KevinV

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It's 6 individual tasks, so budgeting 2 hours for each task seems reasonable to me - including set up and clear down. I did my own, but at that price I wouldn't - there really is no pleasure in antifouling.
 

citygent111

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Yes it needs done.

Seems a fair price, but if you want to save on costs, it's an easy job most of us do each spring - just do it yourself.
Bearing in mind I'm a tight Yorkshireman, I choose your reply Minerva!

Thanks for breaking it down everyone, I guess when you look at 2 hours per task it's more reasonable, but it just seems a lot to me!

Don't suppose anyone has a good link to a "how to" description or video?
Thanks all :)
 

Stemar

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Don't suppose anyone has a good link to a "how to" description or video?
That quotation pretty much covers it.
Sand: Tedious and messy. You want a good key that the primer can stick to - If the primer doesn't specify, I'd use about 120 grit,
Prime: You want a dry, mild day. Just do what it says on the tin.
Antifoul: Same as the primer

If you're out for the winter, spread the pain over several days, but some antifouls (all?) have a minimum and maximum time before going back in the water. The number of people who do it between tides suggestd that the minimum may not be too critical, but gpoing significantly over the maximum may make it less effective.
 

citygent111

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That quotation pretty much covers it.
Sand: Tedious and messy. You want a good key that the primer can stick to - If the primer doesn't specify, I'd use about 120 grit,
Prime: You want a dry, mild day. Just do what it says on the tin.
Antifoul: Same as the primer

If you're out for the winter, spread the pain over several days, but some antifouls (all?) have a minimum and maximum time before going back in the water. The number of people who do it between tides suggestd that the minimum may not be too critical, but gpoing significantly over the maximum may make it less effective.
Lovely, thanks Stemar,

One other question if I may - the boat is currently trailered and will remain so until it goes in the water in April. How can I go about prepping and painting when it's sat on the trailer? Well, obviously I can't so what to do??! :)

Oh - and another question that just dawned on me - how the heck can I paint to the waterline if there's no waterline to see? The hull is perfectly clean from top to bottom. Will I have to put it in the water to mark it out?
 

steveeasy

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Well I’ve done mine every year for ten years and never used a primer. It’s never come off and lasted for the season.
I’ve never sanded either. Good scalper works well. I also have used Hemple at £50 for 2.5 Ltrs which will do a small hull 2 coats just.

So you can do it for peanuts or pay someone to do it properly!!!!
It is a simple job and a small hull will take an hour to apply with a roller.
Steveeasy
 

Wansworth

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I dry sailed my 27footer boat and over a two month period it didn’t get too weedy,is there a local scrubbing post that you can lay for a tide and scrub it?
 

AntarcticPilot

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Lovely, thanks Stemar,

One other question if I may - the boat is currently trailered and will remain so until it goes in the water in April. How can I go about prepping and painting when it's sat on the trailer? Well, obviously I can't so what to do??! :)

Oh - and another question that just dawned on me - how the heck can I paint to the waterline if there's no waterline to see? The hull is perfectly clean from top to bottom. Will I have to put it in the water to mark it out?
The usual thing is to leave a pot of antifouling and the hoist crew will antifoul under the pads before dropping her in the water! But as you need to apply primer, that won't work. So I guess you need to antifoul round the pads, wait a day or two and then reprop the boat temporarily using Acro props or similar and do under the pads. Actually, the boatyard might well do that for you.

There is normally a very fine line scribed into the mould to show the design waterline, but if not, ask the designer and/or builder. You need to antifold a few inches above the waterline.
 

NormanS

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Having previously being in the habit of antifouling a 60' ex fishing boat between tides each year, I find antifouling our present 36' boat a dawdle and a pleasure. I wet sand the bottom each year, using gauze on an articulated pole, but as the boat is ashore, that can be done anytime during the winter. Part of the pleasure is because it means that launching is imminent.
 

citygent111

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Hmmm...I'm more attracted to the idea of doing itself - more rewarding/satisfying.

Now, as it's on the trailer I guess I need to arrange for the marina to put it on stands?

Also @AntarcticPilot , good advice, thank you. Unfortunately it's a Fletcher so asking the builder isnt an option!
 

Tranona

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Hmmm...I'm more attracted to the idea of doing itself - more rewarding/satisfying.

Now, as it's on the trailer I guess I need to arrange for the marina to put it on stands?

Also @AntarcticPilot , good advice, thank you. Unfortunately it's a Fletcher so asking the builder isnt an option!
Most of the "advice" from others has been related to sailing boats which are generally much less demanding on antifouling and easier to do.

My advice is as you are starting from scratch get it done professionally. It is essential they use hard antifouling paint rather than the eroding type commonly used on sailing boats. Fouling will start within days on a an untreated hull particularly in the summer months and kill performance of the boat.

A professional will prepare the hull properly and use the right materials, plus they will also mark in the waterline for you. Important to get a smooth even surface. You may still find you need to have a lift and a pressure wash part way through the season, although if you use the boat a lot this will reduce the amount of fouling growth.

Once you have a good sound base you can DIY subsequent years. Easier if you have the boat on props rather than on the trailer so that you can get underneath it.
 

RAFFY

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Hi all,

Prior to our boat (19ft sportscruiser) going into a marina for the first time, I've had a quote for antifouling - it's never been done before, and I've no experience of it to know if it's a fair price?

So first question - if it's going to be in the water from April-Sept/Oct, so around 6 months a year, does it need doing at all? I assume it does but more than happy to be corrected!!

So the quote -

Antifoul - New Boat
1) To degrease hull. Tape up waterline, hard sand to etch. Clean off, re-tape, apply two coats of Primocon Primer. Apply two coats of International antifouling in a colour of your choice. £200.16
2) Consumables and waste disposal - £25
3) Labour 12.00 hrs @ £45.00 = £540.00

Does this look reasonable?

Thanks!
 
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