Anti fouling

MJWB

MJWB

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Questions from the novice. Any good advice please?
1. Is it okay to use ordinary masking tape on a grp hull?
2. How does one decide the best antifouling to use in a particular area, Whitby in my case?
Many thanks for any pointers.?
 
Yes, don't leave it on for too long though - a week max, and even then you are taking a risk with some types. The adhesive is a b^&$£d to get off again if it sets hard - 3M adhesive cleaner is the only practical solution then, and it isn't cheap.

Google the PBO antifoul survey - the second one was countrywide and is reliable in my experience.
 
Solent Sailor said:
Yes, don't leave it on for too long though - a week max, and even then you are taking a risk with some types. The adhesive is a b^&$£d to get off again if it sets hard - 3M adhesive cleaner is the only practical solution then, and it isn't cheap.

Google the PBO antifoul survey - the second one was countrywide and is reliable in my experience.
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Super thanks.
 
Always use good quality 3M blue masking tape, then you won't have problems removing it.

As for antifoul, Micron works well in most places.
 
Just done it myself for the first time. Here was my earlier thread.

First time antifouling...

We used flag which is cheap and cheerful. Let's see how she looks in a year!

Need to use thinners to get a sensible consistency, or it goes on like soup and you will use twice as many tins.
 
MJWB said:
Questions from the novice. Any good advice please?
1. Is it okay to use ordinary masking tape on a grp hull?
2. How does one decide the best antifouling to use in a particular area, Whitby in my case?
Many thanks for any pointers.?
Click to expand...
1. Prefer the blue 3M.
2. I believe the best advice is to ask what local boats around there like to use.
 
Wansworth said:
Antifoul dries quickly,take tape off same day,put new on if you want to apply two coats
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I've never found that to be necessary. I tend to mask off, do one good brush coat on day one, do a second good brush coat on day two, then a third coat around the waterline and leading edges, then immediately remove the masking tape. I think the second and third coats soften the first coat slightly, allowing the masking tape to come off cleanly.
 
pvb said:
I've never found that to be necessary. I tend to mask off, do one good brush coat on day one, do a second good brush coat on day two, then a third coat around the waterline and leading edges, then immediately remove the masking tape. I think the second and third coats soften the first coat slightly, allowing the masking tape to come off cleanly.
Click to expand...

Yes, with a good quality tape I certainly don't replace it between coats over 2 days, though I leave it a little while after the third, brush-applied 'use up the remnant on the waterline' application, before peeling carefully.
 
You might wish to consider getting the widest blue masking tape. I find it
easier to apply .

Knee pads may be worth considering too. Often the hard standing is rough
and stony .
 
We cannot suggest which AF to use - but be generous. If you don't buy enough and need to eke it out - you will enjoy a short AF life. If you are applying by roller expect to apply 2-3 coats, each one being generous. When you complete the painting on day 1, assuming you need 2 days to complete the task stick the roller and/or brushes in a polythene bag and they will be good to go on the morning of day 2.

We use the cheapest tape we can find. If the tape is going to get wet, between coats, we would remove the tape and re-tape otherwise apply on the morning of day 1 and remove on the evening of days 2 - by which time we will have applied the 2-3 coats. If you have anodes - remember to tape them up - do not AF over anodes!

Jonathan
 
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