Antares 760 Rudder bearing

alancollins

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I want to check the rudder bottom bearing on my 760. I have removed the bolts from the fitting at the aft end of the prop protector, after blocking up the rudder, and expected the fitting which holds the bearing to drop away. No such luck. I have tried levering it but nothing moves. I had assumed it would come away revealing a nitrile bearing or some such which I could renew. Can anyone explain to me how to get at the bearing to see if it needs servicing after twenty odd years?
 

Tranona

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Not sure there is anything to "service". If there is no play and the rudder turns freely then leave it alone.
 

Plum

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I want to check the rudder bottom bearing on my 760. I have removed the bolts from the fitting at the aft end of the prop protector, after blocking up the rudder, and expected the fitting which holds the bearing to drop away. No such luck. I have tried levering it but nothing moves. I had assumed it would come away revealing a nitrile bearing or some such which I could renew. Can anyone explain to me how to get at the bearing to see if it needs servicing after twenty odd years?
Agree with Tranona. Why? What is the problems? Mine is 23 years old and remarkably no apparent play. It appears to be a plastic (Delrin) bearing of the same material at the upper bearing.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 

Pleinmont

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Agree with the others, if the steering is smooth, rudder moves freely and doesn't feel loose or rough I'd leave it alone for now :)
Plenty of other things to service!
 

alancollins

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I found the bolts holding the bottom bearing fitting had worked loose. When I tightened them the rudder became quite stiff. I added a couple of stainless washers under the bolts and the stiffness eased. This made me suspect that the bearing had worn. I thought it sensible to investigate.
 

Pleinmont

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I found the bolts holding the bottom bearing fitting had worked loose. When I tightened them the rudder became quite stiff. I added a couple of stainless washers under the bolts and the stiffness eased. This made me suspect that the bearing had worn. I thought it sensible to investigate.

Ah, I see. Fair enough (y)
 

tomaz_slo

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I removed both bearings these days. Uppper one and lower one. They are the same. The lower one is glued to hull with SIKA. I changed the lipseals. I keeped the original springs as they are SS. Maybe it's worthed to renew it to avoid water penetration into hull. :unsure:
 
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Paul1962

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Agree with Tomaz - There are also some lip seals to renew if a 760 is anything like a 7.

When they stop sealing it could mean an emergency lift out - a bit like a Volvo stern seal really.

Preventative maintenance?

Just a thought
 

Plum

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Agree with Tomaz - There are also some lip seals to renew if a 760 is anything like a 7.

When they stop sealing it could mean an emergency lift out - a bit like a Volvo stern seal really.

Preventative maintenance?

Just a thought
On the 760 I only found a lip seal in the top bearing of the rudder stock which is inside a grp tube with the top just above the waterline. Therefore, even if the seal fails no water will come into the boat. Only in rough conditions will a very small amount of water enter which is what happened to me until I replaced the seal.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 

alancollins

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There is no problem with the top rudder bearing. It is just the lower one I want to examine on my 760. Having blocked up the rudder and removed the bolts from the bearing fitting I expected this to simply drop away from the peg at the base of the rudder, revealing a replaceable Delrin bearing in some sort of cup. However nothing wants to move so I thought I would ask whether there is anything else I should know about before I use any force.
 

K80

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Good evening
I've just joined the forum.
I have a 2007 Antares 760 with a nanni 4390 engine.
I have had problems with the rudder for a long time (it gets stiff and steers badly)
As a result it ruins my control box.
Have any of you had this problem? How did you solve?
I can't find anyone here who can fix this problem.
I thank those who kindly give me
He will give some advice.
Greetings
 

Plum

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Good evening
I've just joined the forum.
I have a 2007 Antares 760 with a nanni 4390 engine.
I have had problems with the rudder for a long time (it gets stiff and steers badly)
As a result it ruins my control box.
Have any of you had this problem? How did you solve?
I can't find anyone here who can fix this problem.
I thank those who kindly give me
He will give some advice.
Greetings
Hi. If you remove the steering cable end from the rudder stock arm can you rotate the rudder with one hand? Does it get harder to rotate in one direction only?
 

Plum

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It is not possible!
Thanks
oh dear! then I suggest you start by removing the top plastic rudder stock bush because that is easily done from inside the boat then you can eliminate that and check the lip seal that is inside that bearing. After that, you will have to take the boat out of the water, remove the aft section of the metal skeg that contains the lower rudder bearing and withdraw the whole rudder to check for alignment and straightness. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
 

Plum

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I'm sorry but do I have to put grease on the rudder top? Thank you
I don't think so. I removed my top rudder bearing to replace the lip seal which was leaking. It was then 17 years old, no sign of grease and no appreciable bearing wear. I did put some grease on the new lip seal but that was 6 years ago and no grease applied since. Still working.
 

Paul1962

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I had a similar problem on my Antares 7 - the steering was incredibly stiff - I removed the steering cable and the rudder was very very stiff to turn.

I took the assembly apart as Plum said and I found that the spring inside the lip seal had become detached and had worked itself between the rudder stock and the nylon bush under the lip seal recess.

The steering was excellent after lip seal renewal
 

Calorifier Clive

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Hi hope I can be of help. Had to replace same rudder bearings on Antares 8.8 twin inboard and Antares 36.
It is important to establish that with hydraulics or autohelm or cables disconnected from rudder arm , that rudder moves freely in both directions by hand...important to note that the rudder won't drop out if the quadrant arm remains on the rudder stock .there is a or should be a thrust washer plate on the underside of the 'steering arm' ie between the top bearing and the arm. These bearings more often just the lower of which is like and inverted 'top hat', these often pilm up or swell with% of moisture absorption over the years. On mine, no leaks just very stiff to helm...they like the earlier poster noted are of like a delrin or polyacetal structure...often white or black... mine had twin space 'o' rings in the lower bearings ..and one in the top bearing ... lower bearing 4 x S/s csk kalons + Glued in with underwater grade adhesive, not a silcone..hope of some help .
 
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