another eber question (sorry)

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causeway

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I've just finished rewiring and reinstalling my d3l. The ecu went and it has been at the doctors.

I'm keen to try the half heat mode but can't make head nor tails of the wiring diagram.

Additionally to this the last people to own the boat had a funny old approach to wiring.

Have a look at this picture and can anyone explain why this is wired the way it is? Also which wires require the switch for half heat?

14177056619831400328385.jpg
 
I should add FWIW, that the thermostat doesn't seem to work although the red light does come on. It seems to run flat out all the time.
 
Yeah, I've heard that too. The exhaust I replaced was FULL of carbon/whatever. I'm planning on using kero in the tank over the winter, supposed to be a bit better in that regard.
 
Been running my D4 on kerosene since last Winter. Starts without a murmur and the exhaust smells sweeter, and it seems to run quieter, with no black smoke at start up. I use a 5lt petrol container with the dip tube passing through the filler cap, with an identical container as spare, so easy to swap over. It did take a few start attempts to get the line purged, and I did buy an outboard primer bulb to purge the line, but not had to fit it after the initial purge cleared the line.

The original diesel pickup remains adjacent to the ticktick pump, with a plug in the end, so if I run out of kero I can easily revert to diesel operation.
 
I was thinking I'd put a fuel diversion switch in so that I could use two separate tanks. Now I'm thinking I'll put everything in the one tank, probably good for the tank. We shall see how annoyed I get by siphoning from jar to tank. Just making sure to run down the kero by the start of the new season.

Your method sounds pretty much as simple.
 
The lamp and rheostat in your photo don't like like original Eberspacher parts to me, making it difficult, if not impossible, to advise. I'm afraid you'll have to trace the wires and make a schematic so you can compare it to the standard wiring as shown in the manual. As to the "half heat" setting, I was under the impression that the fan speed and burner settings were automatically selevted by the ECU depending on the heat demanded by the controller (rheostat) position and the ambient temperature.

Rob.
 
From the picture, as has already been said, that does not look like a standard issue D3L controller, the rheostat type had an integral lamp, also it came with two bezels, one of which had a larger detent and prevented the switch engaging some functions. Tracing the cables is good advice, shame you didn't ask about the ECU I have a new old stock one I could have let you have for £60.
 
This site will tell you very simply everything you need to know.

http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.uk/Eberspacher_Control_1.html

"Early generation heaters like D1L D3L D4L D5L usually have a switch which selects Ventilation, Off, Full and Half power settings.
Its physical appearance is fairly similar to the rheostat controller and the two can be confused. They are not interchangeable."

And here is the installation manual. Looks like you'll have to chase the wires back to the connector (page 12 of the link below) to see what colour is referenced against the number on the connector.

Looks fairly straight forward

http://www.sales.butlertechnik.com/techdocs/D3L%20info/Eberspacher%20D3L-B3L%20Installation%20manual.pdf
 
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KevB said:
This site will tell you very simply everything you need to know.

http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.uk/Eberspacher_Control_1.html

"Early generation heaters like D1L D3L D4L D5L usually have a switch which selects Ventilation, Off, Full and Half power settings.
Its physical appearance is fairly similar to the rheostat controller and the two can be confused. They are not interchangeable."
Click to expand...

Oh, how I laughed, think I'll start advising people on how to use varnish!
 
David2452 said:
Oh, how I laughed, think I'll start advising people on how to use varnish!
Click to expand...

Is something factually wrong? If so please let us know.. Or maybe it's because it allows owners to help themselves rather than being ripped off by 'experts'?

From the looks of it, it seems more informed of eberspacher controllers than you are.
 
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KevB said:
Is something factually wrong? If so please let us know.. Or maybe it's because it allows owners to help themselves rather than being ripped off by 'experts'?

From the looks of it, it seems more informed of eberspacher controllers than you are.
Click to expand...

You seem suitably impressed so carry on with your chosen "experts" who am I co contradict their obvious access to sevice bulletins, factory training and on site experience. My varnishing web site plagurised from other peoples hard work and experience, easily downloaded manuals, factory training etc. will appear soon;)
 
Hi Causeway,

I can't really see it clearly, but does the little light fitting on the right fit into the centre of the switch on the left ?...

If so, you may well have the business end of the three position rotary switch below left. This was one of the standard control options offered with Eber D3Ls back in the late 70s and well into the 80s, although with the D1L the rotary switch was replaced with an illuminated Bosch pull switch also below... The third photograph shows the back of what I think may be your switch, with the light fitting in position.

Erm... does the D3L have a "half heat" mode ?

Best Regards,

Dave
 

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You are correct my friend. These are the parts I have. Are there 2 versions of this heater? Original and then 'newer'? Maybe this model doesn't have half heat but I have the manual for one which does.

Many thanks.
 
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