Anodes, non genuine, are they worth it?

dkm

dkm

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Time to change anodes again, there is a big difference in price between genuine VP supplied anodes and non genuine. Has anyone any experience of fitting non genuine VP anodes?
 
dkm said:
Time to change anodes again, there is a big difference in price between genuine VP supplied anodes and non genuine. Has anyone any experience of fitting non genuine VP anodes?
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There is some doubt about the quality or specification of some anodes.

I dont think I d be able to find the thread now but not long ago there was an example of serious corrosion of a saildrive leg while the anode remained untouched ... It almost looked as though the anode was cathodic and looking as though it caused the problem.

Avoid VP's prices by all means but buy from other reputable sources that guarantee their anodes to comply with the relevant standards. Avoid cheap ebay tat.
 
Can't answer your question specifically but I generally always use non genuine and I guess a good sign that they are working is they degrade in much the same time as originals.

I use http://www.zincsmart.com for my anodes and their prices and service are outstanding.
 
I used to use McDuff anodes without any problems, and I bought them from Vitesse Marine near Fareham, which were very competitive with their prices.
 
I use non genuine (fresh water) and they happily sizzle away after a years use - i'm happy with that!
 
VicS said:
There is some doubt about the quality or specification of some anodes.

I dont think I d be able to find the thread now but not long ago there was an example of serious corrosion of a saildrive leg while the anode remained untouched ... It almost looked as though the anode was cathodic and looking as though it caused the problem.

Avoid VP's prices by all means but buy from other reputable sources that guarantee their anodes to comply with the relevant standards. Avoid cheap ebay tat.
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Found it !

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...trolysis-but-why-isn-t-the-anode-more-damaged
 
I asked the same question with regards to hull anodes, a year or so ago. There, I found that the chemical makeup of the cheaper anodes was essentially identical to that of the branded ones. I am now paying £23 instead of £120 each and am seeing the same performance and lifespan as before.

For pencil-style anodes, however, I'd imagine you need to check that they fit properly and are not more likely to corrode around the base, which could mean that they break off inside the engine. Given the engines' value and potential effort to remove bits from the heat exchangers, I am staying with Volvo anodes on the engines - the minor savings there do not appear to justify the risks, for me anyway.
 
I would stick with the circular Volvo anodes on outdrives, as having the outdrive or propellors fizz away would be eye-wateringly expensive.
I use MG duff anodes for the other bits, which seem to fizz away merrily each year.
 
FlowerPower said:
I would stick with the circular Volvo anodes on outdrives, as having the outdrive or propellors fizz away would be eye-wateringly expensive.
I use MG duff anodes for the other bits, which seem to fizz away merrily each year.
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VP dont make their own anodes!

Much the same as they dont make their own oil, impellors, fluids, etc.
 
+ for http://www.solentanodes.co.uk/

Always amused when fellow boaters say their anodes last for years so must be good ones ! I tell them to check the anode’s making contact with the metal, they usually look blank and say the mechanic puts them on.

I also see a lot of Zinc anodes crusted over because of brackish water but a lot of boat owners or mechanics just put Zinc’s on instead of Aluminium because its traditional it do so.
 
It may be a case of "you get what you pay for" Looking at the two sites mentioned on here and also MGDuff, there is a difference in the weights of zinc anodes supplied. For example, a ring anode for a 290 leg is...

Solent anodes weight 470g @ £13.40 http://www.solentanodes.co.uk/colle...ng-anode-for-volvo-duoprop-280-or-290-in-zinc
ZincSmart weight 595g @ £17.95 http://www.zincsmart.com/v875821.htm
MGDuff weight 580g @ £17.90 http://www.anodeoutlet.co.uk/product/149/cm875821z/ (this price varies depending on distributor)

So I'd go for the heaviest as it'll last longer and as mine don't last a full season, the less often I have to change them the better and a massive saving in time and effort.
 
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jrudge said:
On my DPH legs I always used copy anodes .... they were very slightly smaller than VP originals ( no idea why) but a fraction of the price. Zinc is Zinc.
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Zinc may be zinc but what is important is the purity and trace alloying elements in the zinc used for anodes.

Iron in particular when present as an impurity has a severe effect on the performance of anodes.

It is essential that the purity and composition of the zinc used for anodes complies with the relevant standard if they are to be effective.

When it comes to anodes your statement that, "Zinc is Zinc" is sadly not true.
 
VicS said:
Zinc may be zinc but what is important is the purity and trace alloying elements in the zinc used for anodes.

Iron in particular when present as an impurity has a severe effect on the performance of anodes.

It is essential that the purity and composition of the zinc used for anodes complies with the relevant standard if they are to be effective.

When it comes to anodes your statement that, "Zinc is Zinc" is sadly not true.
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This is taken from the Zincsmart web site so there is no doubting their quality..

Quality control
Anodes must be made of the correct alloys if they are to provide the right output voltage, avoid forming an impervious crust and be free of wasteful self destruction. Never buy anodes that might contain melted scrap. A Quality anode will have chemical analysis of each melt made and recorded. . . . ISO 9001or 9002 applies.
. . . Zincsmart Home
Three different materials are used.
. . . Zinc anodes are made to MIL-A-18001K
(Output 780 Ampere hours per Kg.)
Cadmium . . . . 0.025% - 0.07%
Copper . . . . . . .0.005% Max.
Iron . . . . . . . . . 0.005% Max.
Lead . . . . . . . . .0.006% Max.
Aluminium . . . . 0.1% - 0.5%
Zinc . . . . . . Remainder (special high grade 99.995%)
. . Aluminium anodes are to MIL A 24779(SH) or similar specification
(2760 Ampere hours per Kg.)
Copper . . . . . . 0.004% Max.
Iron . . . . . . . . . 0.09% Max.
Indium . . . . . . 0.014% - 0.02%
Mercury . . . . . 0.001% Max.
Silicon . . . . . . 0.08% - 0.20%
Zinc . . . . . . . . . 4.0% - 6.5%
Aluminium . . . Remainder (high grade)
. . Magnesium anodes for fresh water are usually AZ63
(1230 Ampere hours per Kg.)
Aluminium . . . . .5.3% - 6.7%
Zinc . . . . . . . . . 2.5% - 3.5%
Copper . . . . . . . 0.08% Max.
Silicon . . . . . . . . 0.3% Max.
Manganese . . . . 0.25% Min.
Iron . . . . . . . . . 0.005% Max.
Lead . . . . . . . . . 0.03% Max.
Nickel . . . . . . . 0.003% Max.
Magnesium . . . . Remainder
 
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