Anode questions

[MJWB]

Boat I recently bought has two cable ties around the prop shaft ahead of the P bracket. The previous owner said this was to stop a loose anode sliding down the prop shaft. Any thoughts?
Some boats appear to have two shaft anodes fitted. Is that necessary, adviseable, waste of money?
And lastly, engine anodes. Current setup has thread sealing tape around the screw in bit. I've heard it's a bad idea due to the need to have a good connection between anode screw in bolt and engine. Any views please?

 

[VicS]

Boat I recently bought has two cable ties around the prop shaft ahead of the P bracket. The previous owner said this was to stop a loose anode sliding down the prop shaft. Any thoughts?
Some boats appear to have two shaft anodes fitted. Is that necessary, adviseable, waste of money?
And lastly, engine anodes. Current setup has thread sealing tape around the screw in bit. I've heard it's a bad idea due to the need to have a good connection between anode screw in bolt and engine. Any views please?

There must be a good electrical connection between the anode carrier and the engine block. If the tape prevents this then its a bad idea.

 

[Stemar]

Boat I recently bought has two cable ties around the prop shaft ahead of the P bracket. The previous owner said this was to stop a loose anode sliding down the prop shaft. Any thoughts?
Some boats appear to have two shaft anodes fitted. Is that necessary, adviseable, waste of money?

Sounds as if the wrong sized anode was fitted. Mine's a tight fit and doesn't move - until it's eaten up and emigrates.

 

[vyv_cox]

The anode is there to protect the galvanic couple of the prop and shaft, so it makes sense for the anode to be as close to this point as possible. About an inch ahead of the P-bracket to allow water to flow through the cutless bearing. Use the 'two hammers' method to attach the anode (correct size of course) and it will never loosen.

 

[MJWB]

The anode is there to protect the galvanic couple of the prop and shaft, so it makes sense for the anode to be as close to this point as possible. About an inch ahead of the P-bracket to allow water to flow through the cutless bearing. Use the 'two hammers' method to attach the anode (correct size of course) and it will never loosen.

"Two hammers" method ?????????

 

[VicS]

"Two hammers" method ?????????

You fit the anode to the shaft, tighten the bolts then with a decent sized hammer in each hand you simultaneously whack the two halves of the anode then re-tighten the bolts

The alternative way is to hold a heavy solid object against one half of the anode and whack the other,

 

[MJWB]

You fit the anode to the shaft, tighten the bolts then with a decent sized hammer in each hand you simultaneously whack the two halves of the anode then re-tighten the bolts

The alternative way is to hold a heavy solid object against one half of the anode and whack the other,

Thanks

 

[vyv_cox]

You fit the anode to the shaft, tighten the bolts then with a decent sized hammer in each hand you simultaneously whack the two halves of the anode then re-tighten the bolts

And keep repeating the process until it is no longer possible to tighten. The anode will remain in place indefinitely. Currently, thanks to painting the prop to reduce the anode size, my shaft anodes last four years and never loosen or fall off.