Annoying little oil leak off Throttle Arm Volvo MD 2010.

TSB240

TSB240

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I have as described a very small leak from the throttle arm spindle.

It looks like there is an o ring on the inside that has failed. I assume I will have to pull the crankshaft pulley off (I have a harmonic balance puller)and remove the cover to gain access.

Has anyone else experienced this problem on the MD 20X0 series?

Any tips or links to a manual would be much appreciated.

I assume it would be sensible to replace any other seals at the same time. I suspect there will be a similar o-ring on the stop lever shaft and of course the crankshaft seal. Are there any others?

Looks like a bad weekend coming up so might as well get it done and I hate any oil in the bilges.

Steve
 
Unfortunately, I had to remove the cover of my MD2020 number of times.

If it helps, here are some pictures of what to expect with the cover removed:

timing-gear-cover-removed-1.jpg


timing-gear-cover-removed-2.jpg


timing-gear-cover-removed-3.jpg


I spent a lot on gaskets and seals, now being a tad wiser I would source form either of these, and save a bit:

parts4engines.com
or
priordiesel-shop.com

Let me know if I can help further
 
GaryCottam said:
Unfortunately, I had to remove the cover of my MD2020 number of times.

If it helps, here are some pictures of what to expect with the cover removed:

timing-gear-cover-removed-1.jpg


timing-gear-cover-removed-2.jpg


timing-gear-cover-removed-3.jpg


I spent a lot on gaskets and seals, now being a tad wiser I would source form either of these, and save a bit:

parts4engines.com
or
priordiesel-shop.com

Let me know if I can help further
Click to expand...


Thanks very much for the pictures and yourkind offer. That is way better than a manual!

I have just one immediate question?

The lever arm that is vertical in the two later pictures has to be disconnected from what and how?

I am assuming everything will be the same on my little 10 hp MD2010D!
 
TSB240 said:
The lever arm that is vertical in the two later pictures has to be disconnected from what and how?
Click to expand...

That is one of the trickier bits!

To disconnect that lever arm, you have to remove or loosen the fuel pipes and then the 4 bolts holding down the injector pump.

Once you can lift the injector pump upwards you will see that the lever arm is connected to it by a split pin, remove the pin and the timing gear case assembly case cover can be removed.

Quite a project just to replace that seal ;-)
 
GaryCottam said:
Quite a project just to replace that seal ;-)
Click to expand...

I have the same problem with my MD2030. My mechanic was honest enough to tell me that it doesn't worth the cost of that project for a simple seal replacement unless I could do it myself. I cannot do this myself so to avoid the little oil leak I just place some (toilet) paper under the arm and replace it every 20 hours of engine use. It's now the 10th year and have no issues at all.
 
I have been doing the same for quite a while with paper towel. It now needs replacing after less than a couple of hours of running to avoid any drops into the engine tray. I sleep in the aft bunk and I hate the smell of hot oil evaporating off the towel.

I am currently time rich and need a project having moved into a new apartment my boat has become my "Man Cave".

The one thing that I look for when buying a boat is a spotless clean and dry bilge/engine compartment a sure sign of a careful owner.

I have sourced the individual replacement o rings. timing cover gasket and crankshaft shaft seal for a total of £26.30. I will order these and the usual winter service Pump Impeller,Engine Oil and Fuel filters taking up the free delivery that Keypart offer at this time of year. Highly recommend their service and their prices. If you can quote the individual part numbers they will usually source and price any individual Volvo part. Works out a lot cheaper than a full gasket and seal kit.

I will have a go at photographing the procedure as It does not seem over complicated and would make a good how to guide for other forumites with the same problem.

Steve
 
Below is what I've copied and pasted together from other threads on the subject. Not sure if it's fully aplicable to your engine or later ones but hope it's useful. I bought the O rings from Halfords too and reused the original gaskets without any problems. However it took me a lot longer to do, around 4 hours in total.
Sorry can't remember the original posters to credit them correctly.
Mike

First you need to take the alternator belt off and remove the seawater pump and tie the pipes back out of the way. Then you need to remove the crank shaft pulley. This needs a large socket and a long bar AND in my experience some heat on the pulley to get it off its taper. There is a flat on the casting of the pulley you can put a spanner on to stop the crank rotating. Once you've got the nut off you need to put a three legged puller on the pulley and heat it up to get it off. Boiling water or a blow torch does the trick - but be careful with a blow torch in the engine bay of a boat!

Once the pulley is off, you need to remove the injector pump and as you lift it clear carefully take the clip off the linkage that connects the injector pump rack to the governor assembly that is inside the gear case. The connection is just clear and visible underneath the injection pump as you lift it up. Try not to bend the shims that sort the injection pump timing out that the injection pump sits on. Then it's a matter of undoing all the bolts on the flange of the timing gear case and removing it to sort things out. One last thing to be careful of. There is a spring on the governor assembly that locates in a recess in the flange of the casing. It's not obvious at first where it came from, but with that as a clue it should be clear where to put it back. The various shafts on the timing gear case are easy to remove and to put the new o-rings on. Its a lot of hassle for three o-rings, but it cured all our oil leaks when I did it. You will need a new gasket for the cover and possibly a new oil seal for the crankshaft pulley.

Hope this helps. PM me for a phone number if you want to talk it over, or if you are in the west country I could come and give you a hand.
Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...leakage-from-throttle-arm#dSApQqUDLzgMFtqi.99

I did this job last week. You can buy a big box of various sized "O" rings from Halfords for £7.50 which might well last you a lifetime.

The only addition to john-morris-uk's excellent notes is this.

You do have to undue the injector pump and remove that split pin. Make sure you do not drop it in the engine. I put a length of very thin wire through it before I pulled it off. On my engine the link was on top of the pump, not underneath as john has said. my engine is slightly smaller than yours.

I think you will have the electric stop, fitted to the left of the injection pump. In the stop position it prevents the injector pump being removed easily (or at all). Just turn the ignition on until you hear it click and the pump will then come out easily.

I did not replace the gasket or the crankcase seal and neither have leaked. When you put the cover back on you have to turn the stop arm clockwise against the spring and then push the cover on.

The whole job is easy. It might take you over an hour to take it to bits but I put mine back together in about 45 minutes. If you were just down the road from me I would help you do it.

Good Luck.
Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...e-from-throttle-arm/page2#GmZ6DoQhjYEISO7F.99
 
Vegable said:
Below is what I've copied and pasted together from other threads on the subject. Not sure if it's fully aplicable to your engine or later ones but hope it's useful. I bought the O rings from Halfords too and reused the original gaskets without any problems. However it took me a lot longer to do, around 4 hours in total.
Sorry can't remember the original posters to credit them correctly.
Mike

First you need to take the alternator belt off and remove the seawater pump and tie the pipes back out of the way. Then you need to remove the crank shaft pulley. This needs a large socket and a long bar AND in my experience some heat on the pulley to get it off its taper. There is a flat on the casting of the pulley you can put a spanner on to stop the crank rotating. Once you've got the nut off you need to put a three legged puller on the pulley and heat it up to get it off. Boiling water or a blow torch does the trick - but be careful with a blow torch in the engine bay of a boat!

Once the pulley is off, you need to remove the injector pump and as you lift it clear carefully take the clip off the linkage that connects the injector pump rack to the governor assembly that is inside the gear case. The connection is just clear and visible underneath the injection pump as you lift it up. Try not to bend the shims that sort the injection pump timing out that the injection pump sits on. Then it's a matter of undoing all the bolts on the flange of the timing gear case and removing it to sort things out. One last thing to be careful of. There is a spring on the governor assembly that locates in a recess in the flange of the casing. It's not obvious at first where it came from, but with that as a clue it should be clear where to put it back. The various shafts on the timing gear case are easy to remove and to put the new o-rings on. Its a lot of hassle for three o-rings, but it cured all our oil leaks when I did it. You will need a new gasket for the cover and possibly a new oil seal for the crankshaft pulley.

Hope this helps. PM me for a phone number if you want to talk it over, or if you are in the west country I could come and give you a hand.
Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...leakage-from-throttle-arm#dSApQqUDLzgMFtqi.99

I did this job last week. You can buy a big box of various sized "O" rings from Halfords for £7.50 which might well last you a lifetime.

The only addition to john-morris-uk's excellent notes is this.

You do have to undue the injector pump and remove that split pin. Make sure you do not drop it in the engine. I put a length of very thin wire through it before I pulled it off. On my engine the link was on top of the pump, not underneath as john has said. my engine is slightly smaller than yours.

I think you will have the electric stop, fitted to the left of the injection pump. In the stop position it prevents the injector pump being removed easily (or at all). Just turn the ignition on until you hear it click and the pump will then come out easily.

I did not replace the gasket or the crankcase seal and neither have leaked. When you put the cover back on you have to turn the stop arm clockwise against the spring and then push the cover on.

The whole job is easy. It might take you over an hour to take it to bits but I put mine back together in about 45 minutes. If you were just down the road from me I would help you do it.

Good Luck.
Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...e-from-throttle-arm/page2#GmZ6DoQhjYEISO7F.99
Click to expand...
could you please repost the notes that you wrote on removing the timing cover? Seems the link is no longer active.

Thanks you so much!

Rob
 
I have an oil leak from the timing cover, so I think I need to replace the gasket.
Is it possible to replace the gasket, without removing any gears, or the governor, etc. ?
It´s impossible to tell from the service manual or from the parts drawings. Service manual hardly mentions the gasket at all. So I´m hoping someone can shine some light on this. Thanks!
 
Jokani said:
Unfortunately, I had to remove the cover of my MD2020 number of times.

If it helps, here are some pictures of what to expect with the cover removed:

timing-gear-cover-removed-1.jpg


timing-gear-cover-removed-2.jpg


timing-gear-cover-removed-3.jpg


I spent a lot on gaskets and seals, now being a tad wiser I would source form either of these, and save a bit:

parts4engines.com
or
priordiesel-shop.com

Let me know if I can help further
Click to expand...
Would you mind reposting the pictures please?
 
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