Ancient lewmar 40 two speed winches

alisdair4

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I have vintage (non- ST) Lewmar 40 2-speed winches on my Rival. When servicing them the other day, I made the mistake of looking at the internet for an exploded diagram (the Lewmar manual which comes with the spares kit doesn't show this model - they probably date from the early '80s). The diagram which I could find referred to removing the cir-clip surrounding the handle socket, and then removing two 12mm x 5mm machine screws (under the to plate). See this link http://l-36.com/winches_pages.php?winch=243040-2sp.htm for the digram.

I cannot find the screws, so this would suggest that this model of winch predates the manual, and that the whole shooting match is held together only by a circlip - does that sound right, or am I being dense?
 
I have Lewmars of 1979 vintage: take off circlip, then just lift the drum - slowly, so as not to throw it overboard.
 
I should think the circlip (1) retains the drum on the main spindle (8) and the main spindle is retained in the centre stem (11) by the plastic key (10)
 
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On second thought...... i have a 2 speed non ST 16 on the coachroof, i've just removed the circlip, which releases the cap. Beneath the cap there are no screws. The drum will just lift off, take care with the pawls and pawl springs though.
 
I have those winches on my 1976 HR 35 Rasmus. I seem to remember that removing the circlip allows you to lift the barrel of the winch off, leaving the workings exposed. Arrange a towel or something to catch the bits that may spew out as you lift. You can then clean some of the workings with the winch in place. But ....

... to get at the rest of the workings you will need to entirely remove the winch from the coaming or whatever it is mounted on, by undoing the bolts that hold it on. Only then can you get at the second pair of widgets or whatever they are called. On my boat that means emptying the whole cockpit locker, getting in there, putting spanners on nuts in a very restricted overhead space. You'll also need a helper to operate the other end of the bolts and to mark your swearing out of 10.

All this is from memory. I don't do it very often!
 
I have those winches on my 1976 HR 35 Rasmus. I seem to remember that removing the circlip allows you to lift the barrel of the winch off, leaving the workings exposed. Arrange a towel or something to catch the bits that may spew out as you lift. You can then clean some of the workings with the winch in place. But ....

... to get at the rest of the workings you will need to entirely remove the winch from the coaming or whatever it is mounted on, by undoing the bolts that hold it on. Only then can you get at the second pair of widgets or whatever they are called. On my boat that means emptying the whole cockpit locker, getting in there, putting spanners on nuts in a very restricted overhead space. You'll also need a helper to operate the other end of the bolts and to mark your swearing out of 10.

All this is from memory. I don't do it very often!
A while since I had my ancient 34STs, in bits, which I think are very similar, but if I remember correctly there is no need to remove the "centre stem" (11) because withdrawing the main spindle allows the part inside the base of the centre stem, ie "ratchet gear" (17) to be removed.
 
And here is some more info emailed to me from Lewmar:

"It sounds as you definitely do have the early version, where you will have to remove the winch from the boat to fully dismantle it for a complete service.
The gear spindles have to be tapped down when stem has been removed, to get the gears off, then the main spindle has a circlip up inside, you will see this once it has been turned upside down."

Oh! re-reading that reminds me why I don't do the full cleaning job very often. It also became clear to me why the design desperately needed to be improved.

PS I got my winches re-chromed and they look fantastic!
 
Yes, you need to get to the underside and unbolt the entire winch to access the workings. All held together with various pins - obvious when you see it but manuals are on bluemoment
 
I have vintage (non- ST) Lewmar 40 2-speed winches on my Rival. When servicing them the other day, I made the mistake of looking at the internet for an exploded diagram (the Lewmar manual which comes with the spares kit doesn't show this model - they probably date from the early '80s). The diagram which I could find referred to removing the cir-clip surrounding the handle socket, and then removing two 12mm x 5mm machine screws (under the to plate). See this link http://l-36.com/winches_pages.php?winch=243040-2sp.htm for the digram.

I cannot find the screws, so this would suggest that this model of winch predates the manual, and that the whole shooting match is held together only by a circlip - does that sound right, or am I being dense?

Sounds like my 1970s Lewmar winches on my Vega. Just the circlip to remove. Lift the winch body carefully to avoid losing bits overboard. Use oodles of grease to hold the gubbins in place when replacing. Brilliant bits of kit, servicing every 10 years seems to be enough to keep them going.

Alisdair
 
Sounds like my 1970s Lewmar winches on my Vega. Just the circlip to remove. Lift the winch body carefully to avoid losing bits overboard. Use oodles of grease to hold the gubbins in place when replacing. Brilliant bits of kit, servicing every 10 years seems to be enough to keep them going.

Alisdair


Don't grease the pawls though, oil them.
 
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I have vintage (non- ST) Lewmar 40 2-speed winches on my Rival. When servicing them the other day, I made the mistake of looking at the internet for an exploded diagram (the Lewmar manual which comes with the spares kit doesn't show this model - they probably date from the early '80s). The diagram which I could find referred to removing the cir-clip surrounding the handle socket, and then removing two 12mm x 5mm machine screws (under the to plate). See this link http://l-36.com/winches_pages.php?winch=243040-2sp.htm for the digram.

I cannot find the screws, so this would suggest that this model of winch predates the manual, and that the whole shooting match is held together only by a circlip - does that sound right, or am I being dense?

Thats what happens when you start servicing things. Leave them alone - not broken are they?
 
Arrange a towel or something to catch the bits that may spew out as you lift. You can then clean some of the workings with the winch in place. But ....

This reminds me of a tip from one Jim Edwards, who used to represent Harken UK Ltd back in the day. He used a rectangular plastic washing up bowl, with a circular hole cut out exactly the right size to fit snugly over the relevant winch(s). This retains the small ( old ) bits that invariably fall out and the small ( new ) bits that you invariably fumble/drop. In fact, he had two basins, of identical size, but nesting. The intact one was used for washing the bits in petrol or other solvent, using his partner's old toothbrush.
 
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