Anchor Snubber

[Fire99]

Hi all,

I've been recommended to get an anchor snubber for my Trader 47 with its all chain anchor windless and extended bow pulpit.

I'm looking at running a loop from both forward cleats as a V to a hook on the anchor using Nylon Braid on Braid, but any suggestions on this? And rope diameter, since the load will be split between two anchoring (excuse the pun) points, I don't want to go too big on the rope so any suggestions there?

Many thanks,

Nick

 

[StefanSG]

There is some good info at Jimmy Green and a splicing guide
Chain Snubbing V shape Bridles

SSG

 

[Hurricane]

Is this the kind of thing you mean?



If so, that is a simple bridle with a chain hook.
The chain hook joins two short strops together.
I also have some rubber snubbers in each strop to take any "snatch" out.
The deck end of the strops are simple spliced soft eyes that loop over the deck cleats.

 

[Fire99]

Is this the kind of thing you mean?

View attachment 135190

If so, that is a simple bridle with a chain hook.
The chain hook joins two short strops together.
I also have some rubber snubbers in each strop to take any "snatch" out.
The deck end of the strops are simple spliced soft eyes that loop over the deck cleats.

Yep that's the kiddy..

How long are your strops and what diameter rope are you using?

Just to add it looks like your fine ship is a fair size bigger than mine (67 plays 47)

 

[Hurricane]

Yep that's the kiddy..

How long are your strops and what diameter rope are you using?

Just to add it looks like your fine ship is a fair size bigger than mine (67 plays 47)

Just found the photos that I wanted earlier.
This is it laid out on the pontoon.





Not sure of the actual rope size but is probably 18mm to 20mm dia
There are various types of chain hooks.
The one in the pics above is the simplest - slots in between the chain links sideways.

Those pics were taken when we had 10mm chain.
We now have 12mm chain so the chain hook is a bit bigger and a different design.
I will see if I have some pics of the new chain hook.

The important thing to do is to make something that can be removed quicky.
All these chain hooks work under tension so if you simply wind the windless in, they drop off as soon as the chain goes tight.
Hope that makes sense.

EDIT
I don't think I have a pic of mine.
Mine is made/supplied by Osculati
One like this

 

[Fire99]

Just found the photos that I wanted earlier.
This is it laid out on the pontoon.

View attachment 135191

View attachment 135192

Not sure of the actual rope size but is probably 18mm to 20mm dia
There are various types of chain hooks.
The one in the pics above is the simplest - slots in between the chain links sideways.

Those pics were taken when we had 10mm chain.
We now have 12mm chain so the chain hook is a bit bigger and a different design.
I will see if I have some pics of the new chain hook.

The important thing to do is to make something that can be removed quicky.
All these chain hooks work under tension so if you simply wind the windless in, they drop off as soon as the chain goes tight.
Hope that makes sense.

EDIT
I don't think I have a pic of mine.
Mine is made/supplied by Osculati
One like this

View attachment 135193

That's great.. Thanks a lot for the info. That all makes sense...

 

[Hurricane]

We don't want this to change into an anchoring thread but my initial thoughts on the length were to make the strops long enough to put the hook below the water surface under normal anchoring conditions.
The logic was that the "pull" on the anchor chain would be lower down.
I like to have chain on the sea bed so a lower down pulling point should keep more chain on the bottom.

I also lower some excess chain below the chain hook.
As in my photo above.
This does 2 things.
1 - puts more weight on the chain hook making it less likely to fall off.
2 - puts extra weight onto the "pulling point" thus lowering it further.
A few years ago, JFM corrected me saying that it is only half the extra chain weight because the other half in being held by the bow roller.
But I think you will understand my logic.

 

[Fire99]

We don't want this to change into an anchoring thread but my initial thoughts on the length were to make the strops long enough to put the hook below the water surface under normal anchoring conditions.
The logic was that the "pull" on the anchor chain would be lower down.
I like to have chain on the sea bed so a lower down pulling point should keep more chain on the bottom.

I also lower some excess chain below the chain hook.
As in my photo above.
This does 2 things.
1 - puts more weight on the chain hook making it less likely to fall off.
2 - puts extra weight onto the "pulling point" thus lowering it further.
A few years ago, JFM corrected me saying that it is only half the extra chain weight because the other half in being held by the bow roller.
But I think you will understand my logic.

That makes sense.. So a decent enough length to keep the hook secure etc.

 

[rotrax]

I have just made a new anchor snubber. The old one was from our previous boat and had lost some elasticity.

We have two bow rollers so once the anchor is deployed and dug in I fit the chain hook to the chain, let out another couple of metres, keeping enough friction on the snubber to ensure the chain hook stays on and then make it off on the centre cleat.

Centre cleat to chain hook will be close to 10 metres. The snubber is 14mm octoplait with 15% stretch, so should give a quiet snatch free night.

Boat goes about 17 tons with the tanks full and all the cruising gear on board. The old snubber worked, but was shorter and was made off on a front cleat, so in use much shorter and less elastic.

 

[Fire99]

I have just made a new anchor snubber. The old one was from our previous boat and had lost some elasticity.

We have two bow rollers so once the anchor is deployed and dug in I fit the chain hook to the chain, let out another couple of metres, keeping enough friction on the snubber to ensure the chain hook stays on and then make it off on the centre cleat.

Centre cleat to chain hook will be close to 10 metres. The snubber is 14mm octoplait with 15% stretch, so should give a quiet snatch free night.

Boat goes about 17 tons with the tanks full and all the cruising gear on board. The old snubber worked, but was shorter and was made off on a front cleat, so in use much shorter and less elastic.

Many thanks... My boat is similar weight to yours give or take a ton or two. I'm planning on running mine from the two forward cross bollard cleats to the anchor chain.

 

[Hurricane]

Many thanks... My boat is similar weight to yours give or take a ton or two. I'm planning on running mine from the two forward cross bollard cleats to the anchor chain.

I think that @rotrax point is that he uses the streatchability of his snubber (which he runs down the boat) to take the snatch out of the anchor chain.
I"m with you though.
If I need that kind of snatch correction, I should'nt be there - rather be tied up with a G and T in a marina.
There is no pleasure "sitting out' bad weather.
The main reason for the snubber in my case is to take the chain's load off the bow roller.
Makes for a quieter night's sleep in the forward cabin.

Originally, I thought that a bridle would also help to keep the boat from swinging too much.
When the boat swings in one direction, the bridle gets tighter on the other side pulling the boat back.
Well that works but not a hugely.

 

[Fire99]

The main reason for the snubber in my case is to take the chain's load off the bow roller.
Makes for a quieter night's sleep in the forward cabin.

This is my no.1 reason too. I want to take the load off the windless lock pin and the extended pulpit.

 

[Hurricane]

This is my no.1 reason too. I want to take the load off the windless lock pin and the extended pulpit.

A bridle is also good for people without pin or chain locks.
Lots of people don't realise that their windlasses contain a clutch and without a chain lock or snubber, the chain can run out on it's own.

 

[Greg2]

I am looking to make up a snubber for our boat so some helpful information here ?

We have the option of fairly meaty forward cleats or using a cleat on top of the windlass with the snubber going through the ‘spare’ roller. I am thinking the first is probably the best option to share the load.

 

[rotrax]

I think that @rotrax point is that he uses the streatchability of his snubber (which he runs down the boat) to take the snatch out of the anchor chain.
I"m with you though.
If I need that kind of snatch correction, I should'nt be there - rather be tied up with a G and T in a marina.
There is no pleasure "sitting out' bad weather.
The main reason for the snubber in my case is to take the chain's load off the bow roller.
Makes for a quieter night's sleep in the forward cabin.

Originally, I thought that a bridle would also help to keep the boat from swinging too much.
When the boat swings in one direction, the bridle gets tighter on the other side pulling the boat back.
Well that works but not a hugely.

You are correct, the Octoplait was chosen for both strength and elasticity.

Our vessel has our cabin forward so having 9 - 10 metres of Octoplait taking the load off of the windlass and absorbing shocks is a real plus for a quieter night.

We leave Littlehampton next Friday for a 4 - 5 month cruise. We have not used a commercial marina for over three years. We use cheaper Harbourmaster pontoons or moorings where possible or anchor if the conditions are suitable.

After being tipped out of bed last year by a 55 Knot gust while anchored below the Anchorstone in Dartmouth - just below Dittisham - when the boat was blown onto its beam ends, anchoring in bad conditions is something we avoid too.

Snatch correction can be neccessary in mild winds but strong tidal flows. The wind and tide in opposition have quite dramatic effects upon the positioning of the vessel, anchor and rode. When we experienced the above incident the vessel had moved from lying down tide as the wind increased to lying across the tide and wind with the rode leading to the anchor which was behind the stern. Never experienced anything like it. We weighed and finished the night attatched to the Rubbish and Water pontoon. It was an interesting trip downriver as the storm had caused a power cut and only the nav lights on the channel markers were illuminated - Dartmouth was black, including Noss Marina which sticks out a bit. A scary experience.

First Mate discovered her dressing gown is not waterproof.................................................

 

[Fire99]

A bridle is also good for people without pin or chain locks.
Lots of people don't realise that their windlasses contain a clutch and without a chain lock or snubber, the chain can run out on it's own.

This is my first boat with an electric windlass and I'm just learning that you don't want the windlass clutch holding the load when at anchor.. Looking back even my days of manual anchors and Samson posts etc would have made for some much more restful nights at anchor with a snubber.

 

[Fire99]

. We have not used a commercial marina for over three years. We use cheaper Harbourmaster pontoons or moorings where possible or anchor if the conditions are suitable.

That's impressive.. When going on my little adventures I'd like to try more rudimentary mooring options. Slightly off topic but how did you manage to obtain harbourmaster pontoons?

 

[Fire99]

I am looking to make up a snubber for our boat so some helpful information here ?

We have the option of fairly meaty forward cleats or using a cleat on top of the windlass with the snubber going through the ‘spare’ roller. I am thinking the first is probably the best option to share the load.

Your setup is probably similar to mine. I've big ol cross bollards on both port and stbd at the bow. They're going to be my snubber 'anchoring' points.

 

[rotrax]

That's impressive.. When going on my little adventures I'd like to try more rudimentary mooring options. Slightly off topic but how did you manage to obtain harbourmaster pontoons?

We know where they have them.

Hamble, for example. Opposite Hamble Point Marina.

Dartmouth has several plus designated anchor spots.

Our home berth of Littlehampton has a visitor pontoon, administered by the Harbour Office, far cheaper than a Marina.

It costs between 40-50 quid to tie our boat up in a Marina. 27 Quid on Hamble HM's pontoon last year. To us, retired, away for at least four months each season, keeping cost down is important.

 

[[2574]]

We know where they have them.

Hamble, for example. Opposite Hamble Point Marina.

Dartmouth has several plus designated anchor spots.

Our home berth of Littlehampton has a visitor pontoon, administered by the Harbour Office, far cheaper than a Marina.

It costs between 40-50 quid to tie our boat up in a Marina. 27 Quid on Hamble HM's pontoon last year. To us, retired, away for at least four months each season, keeping cost down is important.

Us too. The investment in good ground tackle is soon repaid.