Anchor - how do you count?

[2013PrincessV39]

Hi All,

How do you (as accurately as possible) count or measure the length of anchor you have let out? I'm thinking of painting my chain.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Danfarry]

I used fluorescent orange spray paint every two meters. Bought it in halfords for a few quid.

 

[Nick_H]

I use the plastic chain markers with snooker scores - red = 10m, yellow = 20m etc. There's no brown ones, so I used white for that which quickly goes a dirty sort of, err, brown colour.

 

[RAI]

I used paint, but it wears off and needs renewing. So now I use coloured cable ties, three at each 5m. They tear off occasionaly but are easy to replace.

 

[Nigelpickin]

If you are doing a lot of anchoring, I would recommend a chain counter...makes life a little easier...but of course it's extra expense.

 

[jrudge]

I now have a chain counter ( seems to spend more time broken than working) but as long as the chain has some calibration timing the drop to say 10m is quite reliable - so 10m - 60 seconds for example, 15m = 90 seconds.

 

[Robin]

coloured plastic cable ties with the tails left 'long', they run over the windlass without damage but are easily replaced if need be.

 

[MedMilo]

Coloured cable ties every 5m up to 40m then every 10m - unless you can find masses of colours (which probably just gets confusing) you'll need to use four or five and just repeat them. So the same colour comes up every 20/25m. As said before, put a few on the relevant link because they do fall off occasionally - especially the 'shallower' ones which go through the windlass most often. And not worth bothering with the first 15-20m of chain; my first coloured tie is at 20m, then 25m, 30m etc...

 

[Robin]

Ok but can if necessary be combined colours as in one red and one yellow, 2 yellows one blue but like you we also don't mark below 20 metres

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

I use the plastic chain markers with snooker scores - red = 10m, yellow = 20m etc. There's no brown ones, so I used white for that which quickly goes a dirty sort of, err, brown colour.

I do similar - red means the anchor is imminent, then yellow for 20m, green for 30m, and blue for 50m. Have never needed a 40m marker!

 

[Robin]

I do similar - red means the anchor is imminent, then yellow for 20m, green for 30m, and blue for 50m. Have never needed a 40m marker!

I have a number of 'reds' as a warning at the extremity, just before the whole lot is out, we have 50 metres in all then length of line to a u bolt in the anchor locker so if we need more we can untie it and attach an extra length of nylon warp (we have 150ft that doubles as the Fortress spare/stern anchor rode , never need to mind, 20ft is considered 'deep' over here where the waters are mostly 'skinny'!

 

[Bertramdriver]

Tried markers and a chain counter, but always problems. Now we only let the anchor down controlled by the windlass. The windlass drops the chain at 1m every two seconds so I just count it down. 60 seconds means around 30 metres. If I'm still putting out after 3 mins I know I'm running out of chain.
It works for me

 

[Gwylan]

Hi All,

How do you (as accurately as possible) count or measure the length of anchor you have let out? I'm thinking of painting my chain.

Thanks for any advice!

Cable ties, Red 2.5m, Yellow 5.0m, Blue 7.5m, White 10.0m. Then White & red for 12.5m, white and yellow for 15m. and so on.

Then 2 white and one red for 22,5m and so on - frankly after 30m I just sprayed red paint every 5m - small splodge for 5m and larger splodge for 10m. It's all getting a bit academic by then.

Finally a very long splodge for the 'oofah' moment as we get to 60m and only 5m to go. Only got that far once.

 

[henryf]

Assuming 4 times the length of chain to the depth and a minimum 3 metres of water when you're going to drop the hook:

Use cable ties with the tabs left long and 3 or 4 of them at each marker point.

1st marker at 13m (4 x 3m + 1m for the anchor roller to the water), then markers every 4 metres.

Minimum 3 metres is your first marker, then every extra metre of depth is another marker.

You might also have a different coloured marker when the anchor is 1-1.5m away when winching in.

Henry

 

[noelex]

1st marker at 13m (4 x 3m + 1m for the anchor roller to the water), then markers every 4 metres.

When calculating scope you need to include the bow roller height. What is important is the height above the seabed where the anchor is dropped so the bow roller height is just as significant as the water depth.

The correct formula for a 4:1 scope in 3m of water with a 1m bow roller height is:

4x (3+1)=16m

If you are in tidal waters you need to modify the 3m for the current height, or maximum height, depending if you are calculating your current, or minimum scope.

For chain markers I use the plastic coloured inserts in the snooker colour every 10m, as has been suggested. As well, I have a short length of thin spectra line at each interval. I normally look at the coloured markers, but in the dark you can feel the spectra line. This has proved more durable than paint, or cable ties.

 

[henryf]

When calculating scope you need to include the bow roller height. What is important is the height above the seabed where the anchor is dropped so the bow roller height is just as significant as the water depth.

The correct formula for a 4:1 scope in 3m of water with a 1m bow roller height is:

4x (3+1)=16m

I hear what you are saying, the trouble is you also have to take into account your swing as wind and tide changes. In a busy Solent anchorage like Newtown Creek that can be an issue. Tidal flow is not too strong so we make allowances. We can always let out another markers worth (4m) of chain if we want to.

The trouble with marking the chain in anything other than 4m additional increments is it means you end up doing complicated maths and more often than not getting it wrong.

K.I.S.S.

Henry

 

[J Neeves]

We, as most are posting - use cable ties, they are cheap, simple and last for a long period of time. You work out a pattern that suits you, there are a variety of colours, white, clear, black, red, yellow, green and you can increase the numbers or mix the colours. We also mark the end of the chain such that we have room to attach the bridle and leave enough for the 'slack loop'. We also mark when the anchor is to appear over the bow roller. They do wear out, but are easy to replace.

The combination we use is written into the locker lid over the windlass - in case a guest is operating the windlass.

If you have a helm operated windlass its worth taking the time to measure your speed of deployment and speed of retrieval, metres per second (or numbers of seconds) and then you get a good idea of how much you have deployed and you can tweak it from the bow once the anchor has 'self set'.

Jonathan

 

[gjgm]

I hear what you are saying, the trouble is you also have to take into account your swing as wind and tide changes. In a busy Solent anchorage like Newtown Creek that can be an issue. Tidal flow is not too strong so we make allowances. We can always let out another markers worth (4m) of chain if we want to.

The trouble with marking the chain in anything other than 4m additional increments is it means you end up doing complicated maths and more often than not getting it wrong.

K.I.S.S.

Henry

Well only if you want to stick rigidly to 4* as the maths.
On the hard, I let the anchor out down to the ground, and then add another 5metres, spray with yellow paint(first marker), and then measure another 5 and so on. When anchoring, just do some rough numbers for tide, time,wind,weather and how long it takes to light the bbq etc, and release enough accordingly. That might be just twice the depth, might be alot more. I certainly don't put out 4* because of convention.
The paint lasts a season.

 

[MapisM]

Another +1 for plastic markers.
IIRC, I fitted them a dozen of years ago, and they are still doing their job as in day 1.
Well worth the cost, which albeit ridiculous for some plastic bits, is negligible anyway when placed into a boating perspective.

Actually, my train of thought was the opposite of N_H and JTB:

I do similar - red means the anchor is imminent, then yellow for 20m, green for 30m, and blue for 50m

Because I used (every 20m): green first, then green+yellow, yellow, yellow+red, and eventually red (meant to highlight that the end of the 100m chain is approaching).
But of course, the colours and their combination, as well as the intermediate distances, are firmly into the "each to their own" field!

 

[Jurgen]

3 seconds per meter for our windlass.

Just set the timer on my phone to the appropriate time then keep letting chain out until times up, simples and free, well apart from the £500 smart phone lol