Anchor Connector

emandvee44

emandvee44

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Ours was very rusty so I decided to replace it, like for like. After searching several online chandleries, I eventually found the link on F4, and it has just arrived, and it turned out to be a Kong brand.
Interestingly, the instructions recommend fitting a shackle between the connector and the anchor, to prevent side loading - obvious really but how many of us do that?
View attachment 27850View attachment 27849

Now, in the interests of enjoying peaceful nights asleep at anchor, what do the members recommend to ensure the allen bolt stays put.
I was thinking of loctite?

Cheers,

Michael.
 
I have been advocating this method for the past five years or so.
P1020411.jpg


I tested Loctite a few seasons ago. It worked very well. The numbers seem to have been changed but I think 243 sounds like the one I looked at.
 
emandvee44 said:
Interestingly, the instructions recommend fitting a shackle between the connector and the anchor, to prevent side loading - obvious really but how many of us do that?
Click to expand...

I think I'm missing something here; if you're supposed to put a shackle in, why not just shackle the chain to the anchor? What benefit does the connector give?
 
Another way to sell some piece of junk metal for wealthy Yachtsmen. Anchor shackle , proper kind, is all there is necessary.
So what if you test the "connector", it was "swivel" for me, for load and find out it breaks at 1/10 load for chain?
Some did find, actually...
 
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pvb said:
I don't think you've bothered to look at the OP's photos - his connector doesn't swivel.
Click to expand...


I bought one so that the anchor would come onto the roller because the normal shackle wont come over the roller.
The jaws of the Kong are too narrow to fit my anchor shank! I could fit it with shackle, or like Vyv suggests ... back to square one, shackle wont come over the roller!


Got a (small) Kong going spare somewhere if anyone is desparate
 
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vyv_cox said:
I have been advocating this method for the past five years or so.
P1020411.jpg


I tested Loctite a few seasons ago. It worked very well. The numbers seem to have been changed but I think 243 sounds like the one I looked at.
Click to expand...

Are stainless steel shackles OK to use for anchoring? I always thought the steel was too brittle? The swivel should be engineered for the job but what about the shackle ?
 
uxb said:
Are stainless steel shackles OK to use for anchoring? I always thought the steel was too brittle? The swivel should be engineered for the job but what about the shackle ?
Click to expand...

Stainless shackles are fine, especially as many of the so-called "galvanised" shackles sold today are simply zinc-plated and will rust as soon as you look at them.
 
pvb said:
Stainless shackles are fine, especially as many of the so-called "galvanised" shackles sold today are simply zinc-plated and will rust as soon as you look at them.
Click to expand...
And many - if not most- stainless shackles are cheap and nasty Chinese knock-outs.. Where do you buy quality now?
 
well spotted re no swivel prv!kinda rubbishes my comment haha!Douglas Marine Italy make good gear esp compensators!.
Seem to remember anchor swivels too.Maybe a cranked one as well.

sent from my dispirin.
 
VicS said:
I bought one so that the anchor would come onto the roller because the normal shackle wont come over the roller.
The jaws of the Kong are too narrow to fit my anchor shank! I could fit it with shackle, or like Vyv suggests ... back to square one, shackle wont come over the roller!
Click to expand...
Traditional anchor shackle should come over. Or some other kind of connecting link. If not for your situation, but someone may find those normal, non Yachty ideas ;) usefull:
anchor shackle: http://www.sotra.net/bilder/bilder/produktbilder/shackles/Anchor_shackle_ill.png
http://www.wortelboer.nl/ENGINE/FIL..._jpg/390_700_80_1__studlink_chaincable_03.jpg
http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00VvkEHtFqYehQ/US-Type-Forged-Round-Pin-Anchor-Shackle-G213-.jpg
http://www.ramnas.com/media/cache/i...RK/2008/05/27/17/Ramfor_Kenter_1522762637.gif
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/...0OswGid_ckOnNlFPFl8ehEdyBY3S_cnPDivhoA5iuXIV-
http://www.wreckmaster.com/shop/images/products/large_314_A1337-c.jpg
http://www.slingsby.com/images/Category/large/SPGRP_381870.jpg
http://www.saxtonmarine.co.uk/NewFiles/kenter.gif
 
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There is a lot of information about destructive testing of shackles, connectors, C-links, etc on my website and YM have printed a number of articles of mine on the subject.

Swivels can jam against the stock of many anchors when used with a shackle, putting a lateral load on the swivel joint. Like this
P1020436.jpg
The method I show above, with a couple of links of chain, solves the problem. If a swivel is not needed, then don't use one, but I find that twisting of the chain can be a real problem that can result in jamming in the windlass. My windlass instructions recommend a swivel.

Stainless steel shackles came out stronger on average than galvanised ones in the tests. All the ones tested were 10 mm, to more or less match the strength of the chain. I use a countersunk Wichard 17/4 PH shackle, which passes through the bow roller and was the strongest I tested. I lock the pin with Loctite 242, not 243 as I said earlier.

Galvanic corrosion is not a problem on an anchor and chain that it not permanently underwater. The zinc will be lost from the surface of a couple of links adjacent to the stainless fitting after a couple of years but it takes a lot longer for the FeZn intermetallic to be lost, so there is no or little rusting.

316 stainless steel is not brittle, just the opposite, in the as-cast condition it is remarkably ductile.
 
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