Anchor connector conundrum

[KAM]

Having just replaced my anchor I notice that the new one has a very nicely curved shank which self stows very well except for the shackle jamming. I had previously tried an anchor connector (Kong) but was uneasy about the lack of provision to lock the socket head pins. Ironically when I did need to change anchor on a dark windy night I found that the pins had seized and it was impossible to remove them with a hex wrench as the pins did not appear to be hardened and the hexes just rounded off. It was necessary to hacksaw through the pins to get the anchor off. Can anyone recommend an anchor connector with positively locked pins which can be removed easily if necessary.

 

[noelex]

A shackle is the cheapest most reliable connection. The problem of the shackle catching can be usually solved by drilling a small hole, so the shackle can still be moused, and then cutting most of the head off.
Removing the head of the pin means the shackle does not tend to catch.

There is still enough off a stub that the shackle pin can still be removed, but you need an adjustable spanner.

 

[noelex]

Here is another one I did. I left a bit more of the stub on this one as I wanted to be able very easily loosen the shackle to swap anchors with just pliers, but you can see it is still reasonably streamlined. A shackle is always going to wider than a swivel, so this option many not work in all installations, but removing the large head of the pin usually means the shackle slides over the bow roller without any danger of catching on any of the fittings.

There are specialised streamlined shackles available, but they are difficult to get and they are not available in the strong G8 high tensile steel.

 

[J Neeves]

I think you might want to look at Vyv Cox' website on swivels.

Many of us question the necessity of swivels in the first place but you should not attach the swivel directly to the shank of the anchor, see Vyv's website - and if you are not to connect the swivel directly then you need a shackle. Consequently if you are using a swivel - you should be using a shackle and the swivel thus does not replace the shackle.

If you are happy to use a stainless swivel you will probably be equally happy to use a stainless shackle and Tecni Lift (or its sister company) www.tecni-lift.co.uk have a range of strong stainless shackles with recessed pins that are effectively 'streamlined'. Witchard have something similar that may be stronger. Both allen pin keyed. You can buy some of these from Tecni (I'm in Oz, have no relationship - they are in the UK and are simply the only one I know and I have bought very happily from them). You can source the Witchard shackles easily anywhere. Tecni will have their shackles to you by return post.

I have searched and have no knowledge of any manufacturer of conventional gal, bow, HT shackles with recessed pins of 'our' size.

As Noelex suggests you can take a conventional bow, gal, HT anchor shackle and cut the lug off - but again you might find that some might suggest drilling a hole is unnecessary and that use of Loctite is more than adequate (or peen the end and simply chop off with bolt croppers when you need to replace - these shackles are hardly expensive). But you need to take care, HT, gal, bow shackles tend to be imperial, so 5/16th not 8mm and 3/8th not 10mm and some of these imperial gal HT bow shackles will not fit some European metric chain (of 8mm or 10mm etc). Simply put the shackle pin is too big for the link (of some, but not all, metric chains - so much for standardisation!) but then they are imperial shackles, not metric shackles. If this is the case your only fall back is stainless. But do not rush into buying an imperial made gal bow HT shackle until you have confirmed the pin will fit you chain. There are metric HT shackle makers but their shackles are not 'leisure' sized and/or not gal.

The problem you outline is not unusual, it is being investigated - it looks promising, but not short term

Jonathan

 

[vyv_cox]

I have been using Kong swivels and Wichard 17/4 PH shackles, both with countersunk screws without a positive locking method, for something like ten years. I have been using Loctite 242, which has been 100% successful, but I now find that Loctite 243 is stronger and is recommended for metals other than carbon steel, e.g. stainless and others http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802623520769 so this year I am using that. Not only does Loctite ensure the screwed fitting remains in place, it also excludes water well, so could well solve your corrosion problem.

Check the info on swivels and connectors on my website before trying types other than Kong and Osculati. Some of the normal chandlery ones are very poor.

I am beginning the season without a swivel, shackle only, and so far results are mixed. Still setting up really but looking promising.

 

[dougg]

I am using the Kong this year, and so far I am impressed.

 

[roblpm]

I have been using Kong swivels and Wichard 17/4 PH shackles, both with countersunk screws without a positive locking method, for something like ten years. I have been using Loctite 242, which has been 100% successful, but I now find that Loctite 243 is stronger and is recommended for metals other than carbon steel, e.g. stainless and others http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802623520769 so this year I am using that. Not only does Loctite ensure the screwed fitting remains in place, it also excludes water well, so could well solve your corrosion problem.

Check the info on swivels and connectors on my website before trying types other than Kong and Osculati. Some of the normal chandlery ones are very poor.

I am beginning the season without a swivel, shackle only, and so far results are mixed. Still setting up really but looking promising.

I spent a while researching this and followed your instructions to the letter only to find you were trying something different so am hoping you revert to the swivel! Working fine for me so far!

 

[J Neeves]

Vyv's a guru because he is willing to test the envelope and we enjoy the fruits of him sticking his neck out. roblpm - you happen to have caught him when he is pushing 'a' frontier - but you will be quite comfortable with following his past advise.

Jonathan

 

[noelex]

I have not used a swivel for a long time.
The only drawback is occasionally if you anchor for a while in the one spot and swing around the same way the chain can get twisted. I don't think this has any impact on the anchor, but as the chain is retrieved the twists get compressed into the last bit of the chain, until you lift the anchor off the bottom and the anchor spins around at quite an impressive speed.

Before the anchor starts spining the chain can get wound up like the rubber bands you used to have on balsa wood model planes. It severe cases it won't go through the gypsy very well or even at all.
I have only had this happen on two occasions, but it is something to watch.

 

[vyv_cox]

I spent a while researching this and followed your instructions to the letter only to find you were trying something different so am hoping you revert to the swivel! Working fine for me so far!

There is absolutely nothing wrong with my previous advice, I have used a swivel plus links for more than five years, anchoring frequently. However, several other frequent anchorers have questioned the need for a swivel, so it seems only fair to give it a try. My thoughts so far are that if the bow roller has a 'straightener', a groove cut into it to accept vertical links of the chain, then the anchor seems to come back straight each time. Only around half a dozen for us so far but all OK. If we still had a roller with a concave surface, as came with the boat, I suspect that anchor recovery might be more hit and miss.

Thanks for your complimentary words, Jonathan :encouragement:

 

[NormanS]

My bow roller is turned so that it has a groove for the chain to sit into. I still get occasional twists. However, I have a "bent link" next to the anchor, which always rotates the anchor to the correct attitude, as soon as the bent link gets to the roller. Problem solved.

 

[TiggerToo]

... previously tried an anchor connector (Kong) but was uneasy about the lack of provision to lock the socket head pins.... Can anyone recommend an anchor connector with positively locked pins which can be removed easily if necessary.

yes, go back to Kong and use Loctite as recommended by Vyv. I can second (or this that a "third"?) what he says: in use for the last 4 seasons and no problems whatsoever. I am particularly reassured that undoing the connector is "hard" but eminently doable without ruining the "hex". The pin comes out sweetly, with no evident corrosion, if an appropriately forceful torque is applied.

 

[roblpm]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with my previous advice, I have used a swivel plus links for more than five years, anchoring frequently. However, several other frequent anchorers have questioned the need for a swivel, so it seems only fair to give it a try. My thoughts so far are that if the bow roller has a 'straightener', a groove cut into it to accept vertical links of the chain, then the anchor seems to come back straight each time. Only around half a dozen for us so far but all OK. If we still had a roller with a concave surface, as came with the boat, I suspect that anchor recovery might be more hit and miss.

Thanks for your complimentary words, Jonathan :encouragement:

Vyv, I was only joking. I follow your comments and website with interest and appreciate your contributions. My setup is great!!