Anchor chain, weak link, why?

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pcatterall

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The anchor chain looked good, a bit of surface rust on the exposed bit but nothing serious. Decided to check it all anyway.
Why is there one very rusty link when the rest is good and why oh why is it right in the middle ??
What can I do? I guess I have to get new chain and use the rest on my spare? I guess that I could cut out the bad link and join with a shackle ( for the spare chain I mean) so as to have a 40 M length ( though I guess 20M is enough)
Regards Peter
 
Mine too, Why is the rusty link always right in the middle and not just a bit rusty really badly corroded. Where do you get galv chain from at reasonable (cheap) price

Old Al
 
I suppose it might be possible to save the chain by cutting the rusty link out, then removing a second link by cutting through it's weld with a thin cutting disk. You'll need to twist that link to remove it, which will undoubtedly knacker it's zinc coating, so clean away any damaged zinc, especially 0.5" either side of the cut. Then prep the cut for welding, insert the link into the chain, reform it's shape and finally weld up the cut. To protect that link, either give it a good lick of 'Zinga' or a good quality cold-galvanising paint. I'd also be inclined to paint that link with a bright colour, say white or yellow, likewise a few links at both ends of the chain so that you're always reminded of the repair.

Such a repair should be ok for regular anchoring, but if you're at all concerned about the strength of the repair, then try towing a car or similar vehicle up an incline using that chain.

I'm not saying that this is a perfect solution, but has to be better than having a corroded link in place.

Colin
 
Could it be that the original corroded link is the one added to join the 2 20m lengths together to make the single 40m length?

So after a while you'll have another corroded (but now badly painted) link in the middle of the chain again /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
I shopped around for chain last month the best I came up with was :-
60 metres of 8.0mm Grade 30 hot dip galvanized calibrated chain £234.04 including VAT and delivery.

From :-
Bradney Chain & Engineering Co. Ltd.
Quarry Road
Dudley
West Midlands
DY2 0EB

Tel: 01384 636 233
Fax: 01384 634 289
Email: sales@bradneychain.co.uk
Website: www.bradneychain.co.uk

No connection, just found them on the Internet. George.
 
I've got two "double C" type joining links in my chain. I don't like them and I think they rust faster than the parent chain, however, I have 40 metres of chain out before I get to the first one which means I'm lying to it rather than the anchor so don't get the snatch.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Could it be that the original corroded link is the one added to join the 2 20m lengths together to make the single 40m length?

So after a while you'll have another corroded (but now badly painted) link in the middle of the chain again /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

You're quite right. Chain manufacture isnt a continuous process at every stage - its made in batches and needs to be joined together. The rusty one is a joining link and shouldnt have been supplied - when it happened to me I sent the lot back and got a continuous length in return
 
[ QUOTE ]
Could it be that the original corroded link is the one added to join the 2 20m lengths together to make the single 40m length?

So after a while you'll have another corroded (but now badly painted) link in the middle of the chain again /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Not if you use Zinga - that is why I mentioned it. Zinga has an exceptionally high zinc content, goes on thick, and is electrically conductive when set so that it will self-repair if scratched/ abraded - exactly the same as hot dip galv.

Or - seeing as only one link is involved, it wouldn't be a major production to make up a small crucible and melt some reclaimed anodes and DIY hot dip just the re-welded link. Better than scrapping the whole chain.

Another possibility would be to cut the chain in half and splice nylon onto each length. Hardly ideal, but I'd rather have 2x nylon/chain rodes than one chain with a seriously weak link in the middle.

Colin
 
When you consider that your boat and possibly your lives depend on the anchor if you do serious anchoring, I would change the chain and try to sell the decent bits to people who need short lengths for kedges, or whatever.
 
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